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help needed for hornet 600

Discussion in 'Bike Reviews, Questions and Suggestions' started by bikemanic, Apr 5, 2006.

  1. hey guys i i will be buying a hornet 03 or 04 hornet 600 in a month or 2 what i was wondering is how many miles does the engine last i mean i will be buying this bike and keep it for atleast 5yrs no matter what and will be using the bike on a daily basses like 1000 - 1500kms a month so plz guys tell me if hornet is the bike for me. :?:

    Do tell me the pros and cons of the bike and what to look when buying a used bike ???? what are things i have look after when maintaining my bike???? stuff like that be specific i would not mind reading, tell everything that is needed to know

    My Info
    i have been riding a 250cc for a year and i am boared of it so now thought of upgrading to a 600cc
    my way of riding is not predictable i dont stunt or anythin i just rip my bike where and when i get the chance to do so as i have never ridden any 600cc but as for 250cc i have clocked 100mph on my bike. so me telling you guys a little bout my self can you guys tell if hornet 600 is the bike for me.

    1: i also wanna knowwhat is the mileage i will get on it ???? take into account very slow riding like 50-60miles and fast riding as far the bike can go :twisted:
    2: can someone tell which crash cage to use and throw in some pics of hornets having it on.
    3: can some one plz tell me what's the top speed of hornet 600 ?????
    4: should i go for a steering damper ???? if yes which one i hate when the handle starts slapping around.

    Thanx in advance :)
  2. Hi mate, good choice of bike

    I bought mine in March last year with 52,000 kms on it and even with two months off the road from an accident, it now has 74,000 kms. If you keep your engine/gearbox etc regularly serviced, there's no reason why it shouldn't last 5 years, or more.

    Pros: A 600cc engine and 96 horse power in a bike the size and weight of a 250.

    You'll get a 17" front wheel so you won't have to worry about the 'nervousness' of the 16" wheel on less than ideal surfaces.

    That says it all, for me anyway.

    : i also wanna knowwhat is the mileage i will get on it ???? take into account very slow riding like 50-60miles and fast riding as far the bike can go

    I ride fairly conservatively most of the time and get up to 222 kms before reserve. The lowest I've ever got was on a fast trip back from Melbourne when it ran onto reserve at 185 kms.

    2: can someone tell which crash cage to use and throw in some pics of hornets having it on.

    Go to www.renntec.co.uk, they make a set of engine bars just for the Hornet. They cost around 100 pounds sterling, plus you'll have to pay freight. The two lower right engine cases cost over $200 in Australia; one fall with these bars and they'll have paid for themselves.....

    3: can some one plz tell me what's the top speed of hornet 600 ?????

    Don't know, but I've seen 186 kmh and it had plenty to go.....

    4: should i go for a steering damper ???? if yes which one i hate when the handle starts slapping around

    You won't need a steering damper on the 17" front wheel models, and I don't even think I need one on my 16" wheel model.

    Here's a couple of pics of my pride and joy

    http://www.hornet600.danteswebhosting.com/Homebush and Hornet 003.jpg

    http://www.hornet600.danteswebhosting.com/Homebush and Hornet 002.jpg

  3. NEVER choose a bike based on looks and specs, they all ride differently and you might be very suprised what you find you actually like. you dont wanna up and buy a hornet then ride a mates Z and find that it suits you and your riding much better. ride a few bikes in your budget and if the hornet is still the one, then buy that.

    reliability.... with exception to a few shockers, jap bikes tend to be nigh on bulletproof, a well looked after bike should have no trouble seeing 100,000 and possibly even double that.

    but no matter what, if you have the cash backing you up, do yourself a favor and do some test riding. make sure you get the right bike for you, not just the one that looks the best on the net to you at the time....
  4. Well that title got everybody reading the thread...

    My first thought was - yes we know he needs help :LOL:

    My second thought was - the silly old buggers fallen off...

    :LOL: :LOL:
  5. Tony, one day, some time when you least expect it, I'll get you for that! :LOL:
  6. I'll think of you when I'm at the Judy Collins concert Friday Night...

    :LOL: :LOL:
  7. Yep good little bike, make sure you get the one without the nasty half-faring.....just go for a fly-screen instead.

    Crash cages are also nasty, magic mushrooms are the answer.

    A steering damper shouldn't be needed as long as you keep the geometry as Honda intended.
  8. Tony...

    ggggrrrrrrrrrr :evil:
  9. Sorry to hijack......
    Whay do you think crash cages/bars are bad......? :?
    Mushrooms protect MUCH less of the bike than a cage will.
  10. I like oggy nobs.

    Don't look too obvious, but they work well!
  11. nasty looking (some are VERY nasty looking)
    decreased lean
    can dig in and flip bike in stacks

    basically, they're not really needed or recommended unless your stunting. while the cage will protect much more of your motor, if you do stack hard enuff that the cage is needed over knobblies, your bike is gunna cop a LOT of other damage that would probably have had you getting a new bike anyways. knobblies are made to survive 1 stack and reduce cosmetic damage, cages are made to stop the motor from being damaged in multiple stacks where keeping the motor going is the name of the game, cosmetics are of no concern.

    also seen cages snap mounting points off frames aswell. you could argue that knobblies would do the same thing, but the plastic tends to absorb a bit more shock and allow the bike to slide a little more than steel.
  12. @all well guys i am open for other bikes too give in your sujjestions and i will look into it, guys it's not about looks i want a bike which does not empty my pocket when maintaining i was also thinkin about the 03- 04 F4i but then i found out that the "CCT" (cam chain tensioner) rattles at about 5,700-6,000 RPMS...I have read that it needs to be replaced at 10k miles ???? in know the hornet and F4i are 2 different bikes but between the 2 which bike is more reliable ????

    as i told you about the CCT of the F4i if there are similar issues with the hornet then please let me know. as my profile says that i live in india and parts availability is scarce but can manage a honda bike as they are known for reliability as i cant get it serviced with a dealer there are mechs who ser these bikes who have taken training from the states but then i cant rely completely on them, need to know a little about the bike i am buying as to understand what the mech should do and should be done.

    so help me out guys
  13. really, dont be so stressed about the reliability, if a poorly built little 250 can survive 15 years of learner riders thrashing it stupidly and not maintaining it right, then a well built bike thats maintained well and not thrashed stupidly (gotta have SOME fun tho :twisted: ) will last you PLENTY long enuff.

    i think what you are mentioning on the F4 might just be a bit of bad luck on someones part? never heard of that before, and certainly not at 10k, the motors just run in!

    basically, i'm a firm beleiver of buying the bike that FEELS right and crossing your fingers with the rest. you cant ever garauntee you wont get a lemon, and there are always lemons in every make and model.
  14. @Coconuts you are right about crossing our fingers but here in india there are no mechs who can serv inline four bikes leaving out a few in number so wanted to go for a bike which can be maintained easily eg. just change the mobil @1000-1500kms and oiling and greasing in 3 -4 months.
  15. you'll still need valve clearances done if your looking at doing high kays, and cam chains will eventually need tensioners and so on. theres not a bike out there that you can get away from that with.

    unfortunately, theres really no 'safe' sportsbike out there. they all need essentially the same maintenance, so its just pot luck with major things that go wrong on you :?
  16. Dale, my very reliable mechanic in Canberra reckons that unless you are racing a Honda 600, or subjecting it to the same sort of thrashing on the street, he doesn't do the valves until around 95,000 kms.

    As far as oggy knobs vs engine bars are concerned, oggy knobs attach to the top engine mount. They might protect the top end of the engine and then perhaps the tank, but you will already have incurred expensive damage to the lower engine cases.

    As for the bars limiting clearance, the pegs and undercarriage will touch down before my renntec bars will hit. Unless you're using Chairman's "prone cornering" technique, I don't see clearance as a reason not to use them..

    Anyway, it's a matter of choice, I guess....
  17. i was under the impression that it was a part of general maintenance on ANY bike to do valve clearances at fairly short (compared to 95,000 :shock: ) intervals. some might stretch out better than others, but its always recommended that it be done sooner rather than later i thought.

    correct me if i'm wrong tho....

    and ALL the crash cages i've seen in person have significantly reduced the amount of lean possible. these were well built cages tho, that go right around the bottom of the motor, and these are on sportsbikes, not naked sports.

    i would wonder how much more protection than knobblies you'd get out of something that doesn't sacrifice clearance like that tho :?
  18. Well, I'm not an expert, just an end user, but check out the pics of my bike I posted in this thread and see what you think. These are not stunt bars, just bars to protect the lower engine cases.
  19. yeh, i see, pretty damn unobtrusive, you'd almost be forgiven for thinking they were stock. i still dont know how much better than knobblies they'd be, but in the end, its your piece of mind that counts, a stack hurts the pocket no matter what you've got attached to the bike :wink: