Welcome to Netrider ... Connecting Riders!

Interested in talking motorbikes with a terrific community of riders?
Signup (it's quick and free) to join the discussions and access the full suite of tools and information that Netrider has to offer.

HELP! I can't do emergency stop!!!

Discussion in 'New Riders and Riding Tips' at netrider.net.au started by sabretsubasa, Apr 10, 2006.

  1. Hey, today i had my 5th lesson and probably 8th time to attempt my emergency stop. I can never get it to stop under 12m!!! i always get a borderline 12m. 2 times today i even locked my front wheel which scared the crap out of me. i gently let it go after i heard the screech and saved me a good fall.
    But yeah...
    how do i stop 50km'h under 12m... effectively! ive been told other people get it at around 8m. i usually apply my 85:15 ratio and htat still gets me at best 12m.

    I asked my instructor and he was really helpful, but I just cant seem to get it right...

    anyway.. any ideas guys? what is the best way to execute emergency stop
  2. If you are locking up the front brake but not the back try applying the rear a little more and the front a little less and see how you go. :) Definitly wanna avoid locking up the front.
  3. Cover your brake lever while you're moving so you dont spend 0.5-1 second reaching for it when it comes time to stop.

    Squeeze lightly at first then hard, it will load up the front suspension and tyre to give you the most grip.

    Ride at 45km/h :wink:
  4. squuuuuuueeeeeeeeeeeeze

    Progressively squeeze the brake on, don't grab it all at once. The principle is the same for normal braking as it is in an emergency stop; simply done faster.

    You should do most of your stopping in the last few meters, not the first - the bike needs time to load the front forks and tyre with the stopping force, so it can increase it's profile and therefore traction. Locking the front can be a sign the front was not progressively loaded properly.

    Oh, and keep practising! :)
  5. How good are your reflexes?? that could be the problem especialy in test situations...

    In a test I can stop a CB250 in 7m-8m from 50km/h but in real life I can actualy do it in 5.5-6 even less if the conditions are right... Practice is the key... take the bike out on to a good carpark and a friend to signal... also you can practice by your self... just ride along at 40-50km/h (through the deserted carpark) and apply the brakes see how fast you can pull up..

    You will feel the max braking poit of the bike... it will feel like the tyres are just about to skid but are still rotating...
  6. Keep the bike in 2nd gear. This way you can make the most of the engine braking. If you release the throttle as you reach for the brake lever then a great deal of the speed will be washed off before the brakes are even applied.

    I'm assuming this is practice for the licence test. On the day, the instructor will likely tell you to do this. I know full well this doesn't help in the real world but then again racing lines don't help your cornering on public roads either so go figure. Pass the test and accept that it's not a perfect system. :)
  7. I don't think they let you cover the lever in the test, that would mean you were ready to stop rather than making an emergency stop.
  8. Is this to pass a test or learn to brake?

    For the test:
    Not sure if they allow this still, when I did the test there was a bloke who had alot of trouble stopping - the solution was to stall the bike. This was allowed for the emergency brake test. Advantages offered were:
    rider to be able to focus on using the brake and not worry about the clutch
    engine stalling will give maximum engine brake effort.

    For real life:
    Practice practice practice!
  9. I found when teaching people that because you are looking at a line, you will not stop properly. Same with swerving.

    Get someone to hold out a stick with a towel or hanky or something out in front of you when you are supposed to brake. As you see something that looks solid you will try to not hit it. Try it, I found it works. SAme for swerving, put something there that can't hurt you and pretend its the back of a stationery semi. You'll swerve all right.

    Once you have hte trick to it, go back to the chalk line as in the test. You'll find you can do it easy.

    As the others say, keep trying and stop worrying. It does not always come instantly. Keep on keeping on.
  10. You should cover your brake and clutch levers all the time anyway, should an emergency situation arise, my instructors told me off everytime i wasn't covering the levers.

    You should always be ready to stop.
  11. cover rear brake ready, pull clutch in immediately as you get on back brakes and harder and harder on front while easing off the rear. stalling the bike is not a good idea, what about if a car was to be coming from behind or you had to get out of there quickly for some reason immediately? I roll my hand onto the front brakes, so as i am pulling front brakes on harder it naturally twists the throttle off. Where abouts do you live?
  12. Are you really saying you ride everywhere with your hands over the brake and clutch levers? :shock: I honestly don't think it's a great idea. I find the magority of dangers are better avoided by swerving than stopping (anecdotal, not based on measured data) in which case I wouln't want my hand on the front brake.
  13. I ride everywhere with 2/3 fingers over the brake and 2 on the clutch.
    I can ride just as well covering all the controls as I can with my hands just wrapped around the grips.

    You can still swerve if need be, but if an emergency braking situation ever occured, I can get on the brakes alot quicker than someone who has to reach up and over the levers, after they decide they need to brake.

    There's a video floating around somewhere that shows an average persons reaction time, plus the time it takes to reach the lever and E-brake vs. someone who is covering the brakes.
    It took roughly half a second longer for the person who had to reach the levers to get on the brakes, even at 60km/h thats 27.5 feet longer than if you were covering them in the first place.

    Why wouldnt you make use of it if it's going to drastically improve your chances of stopping in time in an emergency?
  14. This only applies when there is a good likely hood for a potential hazard to arrive (approaching intersections, side streets, riding through commericial areas such as the shops etc. In these situations you should have the brakes set-up (applied very slightly; that click noise you hear). This is done to take up the 'slack' in the brake lever, which should help avoid the sudden jerk-on affect of grabbing a loose brake lever. It allows you to much easily pull the brake in progressively very rapidly.

    There is no need to do it when there is very little chance of a potential hazard arriving, such as cruising down a FWY with no cars around, riding across the nullabour (extreme example) etc.
  15. Well I dont ride on freeways, or the Nullabor that often, so I'm always covering the levers, it doesnt hinder my riding in any way shape or form so I dont see any problems with doing it all the time.

    It will help you that one time you thought everything was safe untill a car reverses out a hidden driveway 15m in front of you :wink:

    Anyway this thread is about emergency stops, not when and why you should cover your brake/clutch.