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Help - 4 stroke OIL - Help

Discussion in 'Bling and Appearance' at netrider.net.au started by Jimboss, Aug 7, 2006.

  1. Hi guys/gals - In the next few days I am going to perform my first service on my bike - its 1995 watercooled 4 stroke engine - Its not an old bike and its not new - The questions are - do I use a synthetic oil or not - A few friends have told me to just use 15w-50 SAE car motor oil. Any oil recomendations? Please help!

  2. I think just stick with old mineral oil due to the engines age, how many ks?
  3. its done 67000Kms -
  4. I personally avoid car oils - most tend to have friction modifiers which are not good for motorcycles. If you check the back of the bottle it will usually say something to this effect. Some don't though - but I prefer to go with something I know is made for a bike.

    Whether you go for synthetic vs. non - it is mostly a personal choice. Some bikes will 'act' better on synthetic etc. You could go for the in-between option - get partially synthetic...
  5. elf semi sinthetic 20w50 is an excellent oil, or motul in the same range, as the others have said dont buy car oil get good quality bike oil (it will be kinder on your clutch and gearbox)
  6. How good are the bike oil marketing departments!
    Castrol GTX 2 is a great oil to use in a bike. It was recommended for many Japanese bikes of teh 80's/90's and is still readily available.
    Personally never had any problems with it, no problems with wet clutches, and that's in a 260kg, 100 hp bike. Both my bikes have had over 80,000kms on them too.
    Synthetics can cause some interesting leakage problems in older bikes.
    Oh, and being an older bike, I wouldn't run a 10w-40, try and get a 20w-50 or similar.
    There are MANY automotive oils out there that do not have friction modifiers, if it is not on the bottle, they aren't in the oil. It's law to mark the bottles if the oil is friction modified. Some Valvoline oils, Shell and Castrol oils will work fine.

    Regards, Andrew.
  7. I used to put $50 Motul synthetics in my '00 ZX6R. Then switched to Valvoline XLD premium (car oil) at $17. No problems whatsoever after 50,000 kms....

    I think 'motorcycle oil' are just marketing gimmick. If not sure, get the bike manual and read what the manufacturer recommends (they will have API grade).
  8. On an old XL with that many k's,you got to ask whether its worth spending 50 bucks for 4 litres.I run Motul synthetic but get it for cheap,so can justify it.Just did a change Saturday.Usually a very good indication is run say your car oil-which I wouldnt personally recommend unless its extremely good quality-then when you change it next time,check youre sump plug for metal filings. Do same amount of k's on synthetic and compare the difference in the amount of fillings. Most sump plugs have a magnet in them which attract all little tiny particles of metal, floating round youre sump,from the wear of the motor. Mr Motor dont like meatl filings. Good quality oil stops that wear Ive found.
  9. Use standard car oil in the old 250, it will be fine. Not like it has the power to start slipping the clutch anyway.

    Do you even know what its been run on for the last 60,000km? If its done 60,000km on normal oil fancy bike oil will do nothing for it.
  10. Thanks very much for the advice everybody - I will try the Castrol GTX2 - and I will check for any metal filings on the sump plug on the next change - I will let you know how it all went after the next 5000Km.
  11. What I've been told is the main difference between full synthetic and non-synthetic is that synthetic does not break down over time, whereas non-synthetic breaks down over about 3 months at most. Synthetic is supposed to perform better, but probably not noticeable unless you're pushing the engine really hard, such as in racing.

    What this means is that if you use full synthetic, it will need to be changed based on kms only (within reason), whereas non-synthetic needs to be changed every 3 months, regardless of kms.

    I use Shell SX-4 (semi-synthetic) and change my oil every 3000 kms or 3 months, sometime more frequently if i've been riding hard.Seems to work for me.

  12. I have done 3 oil changes in the last 2 months. Not by choice though.

    I ran Motul 5100 10w40 for 2 weeks, smells nice and i remember the engine being nice n quiet. The gear changes were a little smoother as well.

    Then had a mechanic put elf something in it, which i ran for a month and a bit until today. No problems i guess, but i had heaps of motul left and did an oil change on my wifes bike so decided to do one on mine as well.

    Back to a nice quiet engine and smoother gear changes again.

    Im sticking with the motul no matter what anyone tells me will be fine.

    Thats my .20 anyhow.

  13. Fair enough too. If something works for your specific bike, go for it!
    I've had this sort of thing happen with cars in teh past too, don't like a particular engine oil.
    The GTR hated synthetic oil when I tried it, clutch slipped and generally wasn't a happy camper. Good old GTX 2 works well. I have yet to find an engine of any kind that GTX 2 doesn't work well in! For those considering GTX, it must be GTX 2, not 3, as GTX 3 is the friction modified, late model car stuff.
    I'm not writing synthetic off in the bike, just have to try a different manufacturer. It won't be a boutique, $50 a litre motorcycle oil though.

    Regards, Andrew.
  14. Update: Hi I bought GTX2 5Lt for 20 bucks - so far so good. Cheers for the advise netriders