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Head Bearing Tool

Discussion in 'Technical and Troubleshooting Torque' started by mattb, Jan 29, 2010.

  1. Can anybody recommend a tool suitable for removing especially the lower steering head bearing on a motorcycle. Obviously I'm envisaging one of universal application, with it's specific use at first being on my Hornet and SR500. If you could add a pic that would be great, so I can get a sense of what I'll be looking at. It doesn't have to be specifically designed for doing this job, anything that simply works is fine - the cheaper the better, I won't be using it a lot (hopefully!). Apparently it's relevant to mention that I'll be needing, the time after this replacement, to remove aftermarket tapered roller bearings (their harder to get at?). Never done this before.

  2. Just a long bar will do to remove the racers out of the frame. About 30cm should do fine. To get the race off the tripple clamp get a chisle and hit the bottom of the race at about 45 degrees. Dont mince about grinding sections of the race out like I've seen others do or you'll turn a 2 hour job into a 4 hour job. Press the new racers into the frame with a headrace press, press the new bearing on to the tripple clamp (I use a parks tools bearing driver) and hey presto put it all back together. Come visit me at the shop if you want a closer look at the tools. E2W 345 St Georges Rd. I think you've been here before or check out the link below.

  3. I have had to do some truly awful things with a mig welder to remove the cups from the frame head on the R65. For some reason, the cups are in blind rebates that leave precisely no cup exposed to drive out from the other side. There are specialised expanding tools to do the job but I ended up running a bead of weld around to shrink it. Very easy to remove after that.

    Removing the inner bearing or "cup" from the bottom of the steering shaft is also a "can do with the right tool" job if you have it. Or you can very carefully grind back the cone once the cage and rollers have been removed. Seems gruesome but it's not so bad. Once thinned with the grinder they often crack off easily with a cold chisel and hammer. It's an interference fit on the shaft for the bottom 20mm or so on most bikes I have seen.

    Or you could pay someone with the right tool to do it.
  4. Thats the best option me thinks!
  5. Wrong.

    Need this and the chisels.

  6. Plus you'll need an angle grinder

  7. Sorry Loz. Couldn't see the jackhammer anywhere due to the massive pair of tits that were filling the screen.
  8. Thanks Pete - it was me before; I'm getting hitched tomorrow and will be away, but the week after the one coming, I'll pop past (a mere shadow of the man you once saw) and get a gernsey at those tools.

    I'd rather pay somebody else, but the good thing about poverty is it makes a mechanic out of you. Nothing like riding a bike that you've had in bits!
  9. Does this mean congratulations are in order?
  10. In that case, get the grinder sans boobs. Less explaining to do.
  11. No shotguns are involved, so I guess the answer's Yes. :)
  12. Congrats Mattb, enjoy your day mate!!! :grin:

  13. Matt all i have ever used is a piece of 5/8 mild steel bar 400 mm long

    No chamfers on the egde like a socket extension bar.

    Socket extension bars do not work because of the chamfer some of the lips are only 1mm.

    If i am really lazy i just run a bead of weld around the bearing and they fall out by themselves its the contraction of the weld that pulls them in on themselves