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Having work done

Discussion in 'Maintenance and Servicing' at netrider.net.au started by Kirks, Jan 16, 2015.

  1. Just making sure I am not getting ripped here, my bike wouldn't start the other day and it was due for a service anyway. So I booked it in and the shop has had a look at it (gs500f) and come back with the problem being the charging system. Basically the bike isn't charging the battery, so I can charge the battery and ride it but it was just drain and die again.

    Diagnosing the problem and the service is $480 or something, now to fix the problem (and also replace weeping fork seals) will come to a total of $1500 odd.

    Is this about right? Is it something I could possibly do myself? I got half way through a sparky apprenticeship before the company I was at went under and I then went travelling so it's been a while but circuits do make some sense to me.

    I don't mind paying for the work but I'm pretty poor at the moment and will pay for it if it is necessary but if I have an alternative I'd like to explore that.
  2. In your situation I would suggest you do it yourself, The GS500 is not a complex bike and with your prior electrical training you should be able to do the electrical part. The fork seals are a bit more fiddly but provided the forks themselves are not pitted you can achieve with minimal tools.

    Re the electrical part, there are a few basic things, I will gloss over them based on your previous electrical training.

    Regulator Rectifier - Often the culprit, lack of cooling kills these.
    • Charge the battery with an external charger.
    • Start the bike, rev to cruising RPM, measure across teh battery float charge should be 13.8 - 14.5 volts.
    • If it isn't in that range could be rectifier but could be alternator stator.
    • Disconnect the stator and measure AC volts between the three phases. A-B B-C C-A should be the same on each about 30 - 50 volts.
    • Stop the bike and measure resistance on the stator A-B B-C C-A should be roughly the same.
    • If the AC volts and the resistance are markedly different then probably stator. Source a new or rewind one.
    • If the stator looks Ok it is probably Regulator/rectifier. My tip is that is what it will be.
    Good Luck. Buy a service manual for your bike, it will pay for itself in the longer term.
  3. Is that $480+$1500 to do the seals and reg/rec/stator?
    Seals are an hour each leg, $250 + $50 parts.

    Reg/Rec will be somewhat cheaper than a stator, maybe a couple of hundred bucks.
    Where it could be exe is if the Reg/Rec is fcuked and it has taken the stator with it requiring both to be replaced.

    None of this work is hard, but a word of advice is to use a fork seal driver if you do it yourself.
  4. if your lucky, some of the PVC pipe at Bunnings will be the right size for seal driving :)
    • Informative Informative x 1
  5. Fork seals, easy.

    Loads of good info from Delboy.
    • Like Like x 1
  6. Regarding the fork seals, delboys video is superb. I used it as a reference for doing my bikes with great results. Definitely watch it and understand the process then have a crack at it. If you've got yourself a workshop manual as well you can't go wrong as long as you take due care.

    Genuine fork seals and dust seals will probably be your best bet too.

    Recommend the remainder of his servicing videos also. It'll give you a proper understanding of what you're doing and why.
  7. $1500 all up. Service, diagnosing why the bike wouldn't start, fixing the charging system and doing the fork seals. I'm at just under $500 for the service and diagnosing alone.

    Problem is I also work 7 days a week so finding the time to try and do stuff probably is too much hassle. Even finding the time to pick the bike up will be a stretch. Think I'll just pay for it.

    Appreciate the help guys. I don't have a garage or anything or even a carport to do work, my house really isn't set up for it. Very keen to do some maintenance/shop classes in the future so I can work on the bike myself.