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H.I.D headlight conversions

Discussion in 'Modifications and Projects' at netrider.net.au started by hally, Jan 12, 2007.

  1. hi all - im new to the site, first post.

    wondering if in this bank of knowledge anyone has done a HID conversion on their bikes headlights?

    i have a black hornet 250 with the twin headlight set up and i cant seem to get a hid kit to function properly.
    i have played with HID kits before on cars which work fine but i cant seem to get the globes to stop flickering when hooked up to the bike.

    i have measured the voltage accross the terminal for the head light and there is enough voltage for the balasts to work.
    do bikes produce alternating current rather than direct current to run lights and the like? is this where i am going wrong?

    help needed!
  2. Hally
    The HID "ballasts" draw a lot of current initially. Due to the small capacity of the battery and alternator in your bike the voltage drops with this initial current and the HID wont start properly. Its a vicious circle . Turn on HID, enough volts to start, current goes up-volts go down, HID shuts off, no current- volts go up, and we start again. You need at least a well charged 7A/h or better battery to get it going. Average car battery is 50 A/h withh cold crank amps of a few hundred. Too long to go right through the whole lot.
  3. thanks heaps mate!
    that was my next option upgrade the battery.

    does any battery company make any battery like the yellow top optima car batteries but for bikes? ive got one in my 4x4 but obviously its way to big for a bike. awesome battery tho! something like 750 cca!

  4. Don't like the chances of one of those for the bike :cry: .
    The best youll do is a sealed lead acid but size of battery compartment will limit you.Most bike batteries are pretty well optimized for the size/cca.
    Good luck
  5. hi there.....I had a CRM250 which doesnt have a battery at all and i fitted a HID to it and it worked fine......I had a spare set of headlights for my car so i used one of those....I dont know if it matters with the type of HID that is being used but maybe some are more sensitive than other to voltage variation...The one i used was an R34 GTR nissan one
  6. G'day everyone,......

    If your going to upgrade your battery as you will have to,....
    I suggest you get a ODESSY battery.
    Thay are a gell type high output battery.
    You can get them for bikes,....
    You can get them from battery world.
    I will be getting one for my bike down the track.

    Dr Who?
  7. thanks heaps for all your input people much appreciated!

    ODESSY battery hey, thanks heaps for the tip Dr Who?
    i will investigate right away, any idea of the price on these bad boys?

    the optima car batteries are somewhere in the order of $300 - $400 :shock:

    hope these odessy ones are a little cheaper. :grin:
  8. G'day everyone,.......

    hally: The car batterys are around $300. But remember you get what you pay for,mine is a 1000cca battery I have in the 4x4,and it powers the winch.

    The battery you will have for the bike will have all the same sort of elliments,of course the battery will be smaller but it has a higher cca rateing than your wet cell battery.
    It will be just a little more expensive than a standard battery but it will be the last battery you will need to buy!
    The battery will not cost anthing like $300. That would be for car/4x4 sized.
    Because its smaller it will cost a lot less.
    If you should change bikes,take the battery with you to the next bike.
    Again,you get what you pay for.
    Hope this helps.

    Dr Who?
  9. thanks once again dr who?
    ill be getting one of those batteries ASAP! lighting is all important when riding at night!

    i know its not really for this forum but what kinda fourby you got?
    ive got a 2 door rangie nothin to special just on 33's

    thanks for all your help
  10. ok so i went to battery world the other day and asked about odessy battery...............$320! :shock:
    so i talked over some other options with the bloke in reguards to cca and A/h options and came up with a standard type of battery but non spillable that was 120cca and 9A/h rating for only $210. much better than the 100cca 8A/h of the odessy.

    The standard battery for the hornet 250 was only rated at something like 80cca and 6A/h so lets hope that when i fit the new beast my problems are solved! if not ill be back on here i guess
  11. OK so ive managed to fit the bigger better battery in with a bit of cutting and joining and modifying. The bike starts easier, runs a little better. i even changed the stop/tail light globes to LED to reduce the drain on the system. but i can still only seem to get one HID to fire up and stay lit :mad:

    im thinking that the battery needs to settle in a little maybe so im gona ride it for a few days and get some more charge into it and then see how i go.

    in the mean time any other suggestions????? maybe at idle the motor is just sucking too much spark? anyways besides that im out of ideas......help!........anyone?
  12. Most bike charging systems barely (if at all) charge at idle. You generally need a few revs up before it'll actually do any charging. You maty also be getting a bit of voltage drop through the wiring to the lights and may have to look at running battery to lights via a relay swithched from the "normal" light circuit.
  13. right sorry for the long break, i have let the battery settle in and im now getting a very steady reading of 14 volts at the plug im connecting the HID to when the bike idles.

    The HID i have, lists on the balast that the normal operating voltage is 13.2V so 14V at idle should be plenty right?

    there must be something else im missing..............
  14. Seems like an awefull lot of stuffing around for such a small gain :?:
  15. Buy a VFR.....all your headlight problems will be solved :grin:
  16. must be the electrical bad earth i may b wrong lol good luck
  17. Sorry to here you are still having probs. Did you say 1 bulb lights up fine? Also did you buy a brand name kit as sometimes the cheaper kits state that they only require 13.2V but in actual fact require a considerable amount more voltage to hold the arc due to the quality of the gas within the bulb....maybe :? Are the bulbs lighting at all or lighting but flickering?

  18. Hally, not sure what else to try mate.
    did you try asking on the Hornets Nest message board?
  19. There are a couple of things that can cause flickering. Voltage drop is one, and was mentioned early in the thread. the second is interference with the circuit. Later CANbus ballasts have suppression circuitry in the ballast to prevent the flickering. The better brand ballasts such as philips and hella are the right ones to use, but are expensive. Note that when I refer to flickering, I'm not talking about the on/off startup voltage drop issue. I am referring to flickering as the varying degrees of brightness encountered when the lights are powered on and the bike running. almost like a low/high beam brightness difference.

    DDM tuning in the states also sell kits, and I've had success with these in the past. ddmtuning.com for those who want to look it up.
    fwiw forget the 55w ballasts, they do no favours at all with motorcycles with plastic housing for reflectors, and the heat is significantly higher than 35w (which is bright enough at 3000K or 4600k temp globes. 6000k temp globes are great in dry weather but ride in the wet in low light and you will have no beam coverage whatsoever. Better off with a high powered halogen in most cases.
  20. You replied to a 5 year old thread, I would think the problem would be fixed by now