I've been saying that I want to buy a Kreiga tailpack for my bike for a while now, and so, bit the bullet and bought one this morning. I wanted a Kreiga bag because they can be expanded as needed and because I don't want a rack on the bike. My daypack backpack is fine, but it's occasionally a bastard to get on and can occasionally be really uncomfortable. This is a bit of a runover of what I tried in mounting my US-20 tailpack onto my 2005 VTR250. This isn't necessarily the greatest way to do this, but I thought it was better that my first attempt and kept things clean without drilling holes or filing away at bodywork. It also keeps the straps on the bike and they don't fall off if you remove the seat. I honestly wish the 'loops' on the loop straps were longer as this would allow you to be more creative with running straps around edges of seats and keeps the plastic buckles stashed away inside. Whatever, it's done now. The bag comes with 4x alloy-hook straps, 1x 2-part 'ring' strap and 4x underbody loop straps. https://www.flickr.com/photos/121717381@N02/13480138274/ https://www.flickr.com/photos/121717381@N02/13479978223/ The typical way I've seen it done (and the way in the instructions) is to unscrew the seat from the bodywork and pass the loop straps through the gap, then put it back together. You can either wrap around some subframe part within the seat using each loop strap individually, or connect two straps together. I am not such a huge fan of this type of mounting alone because it's only self-tappers in plastic holding everything together in a fiberglass seat. https://www.flickr.com/photos/121717381@N02/13480437484/ In the case of the VTR250 the whole seat comes off, so mounting through the seat onto the underbody members means you won't be able to remove the seat without somehow being able to remove the straps. Not sure how common an arrangement that is as far as other bikes go. So really, you have two options, mount onto the seat, or mount onto the underbody and have the loops dangling. In the case of the VTR, mounting onto the underbody and going around the seat means that with neat strap lengths, the alloy hooks from the bag are rubbing on the bodywork, which kinda sucks, or the loops are so long that they flap in the wind, which also kinda sucks. So, I had to mount to the the seat so the alloy hooks were rubbing on the seat upholstery and saving my bodywork. Under the seat: In the photo below, the gold plate is the locking plate for the seat release mechanism. Also, I think the rearmost viable mounting point for that type of mounting (between the two rearmost sets of screws in the photo below) is too far forward. Going behind the last screws risks the strap just 'falling out' the back of the seat (you may nearly be able to stick your finger in the gap between the seat and bodywork). https://www.flickr.com/photos/121717381@N02/13480055915/ From the other side of the seat: Problem is, if you were to do use the rearmost viable point on the VTR250, the distance between the front and rear strap is really short, shorter than the same points on the bag, which I'm not a big fan of. Viewed from the side a 'V' shape pair of straps will shift around a fair bit, compared to an 'A' or 'M', which are better constrained. Remember your backside will limit how far forward you can mount the bag. https://www.flickr.com/photos/121717381@N02/13480943943/ First, I tried to get a reliable point for the front of the bag as far forward as possible. Referring back, that gold plate on the underside of the seat is the locking plate for the seat, and I wouldn't recommend having stuff passing over that for two reasons, one because it'll be a royal PITA to get the seat to lock if the strap gets in the way, two because you'll slowly but surely grease and chew up the strap bag if it interferes with the latch. I took the locking plate off via the two gold bolts (which also removes the pillion strap), and removed all the seat screws so the bodywork came away from the seat. I then ran a pair of loop straps strap underneath the plate, with the buckles facing in to give me more wiggle room. It's a bit tricky to get the length right, so thread the two straps together, adjust until you're happy, then remove the two straps together in one piece and tidy up with some electrical tape before locking the buckles off. I chose to run this pair of straps on the 'rear' side of the locking plate because it made routing the straps easier with the plastic on one side of the seat. I then replaced the locking plate on top and ran the pillion strap. Apologies, I didn't get intermediate pictures here. Note that I went under the pillion strap at the edges of the seat. https://www.flickr.com/photos/121717381@N02/13480954425/ https://www.flickr.com/photos/121717381@N02/13481068053/ https://www.flickr.com/photos/121717381@N02/13480960805/ So the ends come out between the bodywork and seat just next to the pillion strap, and are quite neat. These two photos were taken with the seat upside down on a bench, but you can see the hooks will be rubbing on the upholstery not the bodywork. https://www.flickr.com/photos/121717381@N02/13481113145/ https://www.flickr.com/photos/121717381@N02/13481223443/ For the rear strap, if you want enough separation between the front and rear points, you've got two options: 1) Use the ring strap around the whole seat into/through the wheel arch 2) Somehow connect to the underbody structure below the rearmost part of the seat, For me, the first option is a little inelegant. The ring strap is going to get sprayed by the wheel and it'll fall off when you take the bag off. If I had a US-30 (eventually) and more stuff strapped to it, I'd be doing this as well for a more secure tiedown. https://www.flickr.com/photos/121717381@N02/13481184675/ The second option, I thought, was probably better in the long term. At the back of my VTR, the tubes finish a little abruptly and welded on tabs hold the brakelight assembly. I loosened the screws on the brakelight assembly and fastened one loop strap around each tab with buckles facing out (see photos). I found a good length to be enough to fall to the centre of the indicators or thereabouts. Don't forget to tighten the screws on the brakelight assembly when everything is set up right and the excess has been fed back. https://www.flickr.com/photos/121717381@N02/13481592654/ https://www.flickr.com/photos/121717381@N02/13481229585/ https://www.flickr.com/photos/121717381@N02/13481345733/ Replacing the seat on the bike, the loops S-bend over the top of the brakelight assembly then under and around the edge of the bodywork on the seat. The length was again, to make sure the alloy hooks didn't sit on the bodywork. Note, buckles on the loop straps facing out, not touching bodywork. https://www.flickr.com/photos/121717381@N02/13481335963/ https://www.flickr.com/photos/121717381@N02/13481582194/ https://www.flickr.com/photos/121717381@N02/13481579704/ Now, if you don't want to leave the rear loops flapping around in the breeze (they're not that long really), because they are connected to the underbody, you can remove the seat, flop them into the brakelight assembly and make them disappear. https://www.flickr.com/photos/121717381@N02/13481674204/ If you so wanted, instead of s-bending the straps around the tabs, I suppose you *could* drill yourself some holes to make a slot in the plastic below the tabs/screw and feed one part of the strap out there (image repeated below for reference), but I didn't want to drill holes. https://www.flickr.com/photos/121717381@N02/13481229585/ In the pursuit of perfection, yes, it's certainly not perfect, going crazy on tightening the rear straps on the bag means you'll be pulling the seat upwards at the back, but all tightened down ready to ride, the seat rigidity was taking care of this load. To remove the bag, I just pop the four clips on top, or even, just pop the rear clips, and lift the entire seat off with the bag still attached to the seat. Hope this helps somebody else.