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Guidance on replacing a clutch cable....

Discussion in 'Technical and Troubleshooting Torque' started by Garou, Jan 12, 2009.

  1. After spending two years of wimping out and having the bike shop do all the maintenance and repairs for me I'm finally looking at trying my hand at replacing a worn clutch cable on my GV 250.

    So I'm wondering if any of you knowledgable masters of the tools could offer some advice or tips to a newbie?

    Or if I'm really luck, is there any Melbourne Western suburbanites who are prepared to spend a little time showing a newbie how to do it properly?

    Anyway, just thought I would put it out there as i would really like to learn a bit of self suffiency for the touring years ahead.


  2. Hey Mate, good on you for taking the plunge!

    Have a look here for some tips, it really is easy:


    Reinstalling is simply the reverse of removal, plus a little bit of adjustment.

    Let us know if you need more of a hand, but your best bet is to dive right in!
  3. Thanks guys. Much appreciated. Any and all suggestions welcome.
  4. Pay attention to where the buggered one is routed. Take photos perhaps. Makes it easy to copy.
  5. Actually that is something I was thinking about doing. I'm glad to see it wasn't as crack pot an idea as I thought it sounded inside my head.
  6. If it helps, do it.
  7. You shouldn't have much trouble with the cable, but like said before make sure it's being run the correct and original way, as the cable (like the throttle cable) needs to be run in a smooth curved way, also make sure that you get the correct adjustment setting on the clutch cable up the top, you shouldn't need to against the arm on the engine, suggest measure your current setting (ie how much thread you have after the nut), you shouldn't need to adjust this that much as you're only replacing the cable and nothing in the engine, so a new cable should theoretically be adjusted to nearly the same setting.
  8. The handbook for the bike gives the amount of gap at the outside edge of the handle when it is pulled to engage the clutch as between 3 and 5 mm I believe (will have to double check). I'm assuming that I should try to adjust it to match this setting yes?
  9. Yeah, go for 3mm.
  10. What is the danger of a bad adjustment here? The clutch will just not engage properly? That should be fairly obvious if I then try to go and change gears yes?
  11. Too much slack & your clutch won't disengage properly, too little & your clutch may not fully engage. A test ride will tell you.
  12. Thanks for that MV.

    Thankfully I have had some great advice from a few people over the last week, and then Falcon Lord was kind enough to come over last weekend and take me through the process. So after much burning of knees on hot concrete and banging of knuckles on space not made for human hands, the bike is now back on the road.

    Big Shout out to FL for the change over, and Clarkie and Port80 for their advice.

    And for anyone else who has to do it in the future, it really is as straight forward as it appears, with the right spanners and patience, give yourself a couple of hours and it shouldn't be a problem.