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GSXR600 not charging battery

Discussion in 'Technical and Troubleshooting Torque' at netrider.net.au started by arlennnn, Nov 14, 2014.

  1. Hey guys,

    Okay so a bit of background:
    My 07 gsxr-600 died on me a while back. Found out the battery wasn't being charged. Replaced rec/reg, stator and battery.

    Now all seems to be good. Idles at ~13.6v, 5000rpm shows around ~14.6v. Bike switched off shows 12.6v. Took it out for a little ride and retested and all seems okay.

    I've noticed when the fan comes on at idle it will drop to 11.9v and slowly go down from there. I assumed this was normal.

    But now what I've found is that after riding for a while I'll start to hear my fuel pump a lot more. Like for example, if I'm at an intersection with the indicators on, the the buzz of the fuel pump will change with the indicators. And when I'm in a higher rev range the volume of the buzz will increase.

    So I rode my bike to work yesterday, went to ride home and battery was dead. Took the battery home, left the bike at work. Battery read as 10.1v. Not good.

    It seems short rides are fine and the battery is getting correctly charged, but if its hot/I'm stuck in stop start traffic then thats when the issues start to occur.

    Now the location of the rec/reg on my 600 means that it's susceptible to heat (it's placed right behind the radiator). Could it have fried, considering I've only had it replaced <1000km ago? I'd test the bike but won't get it home until next week.

    God I hate gsxrs.
  2. Recharge the battery, then check the charge rate/volts both when cold and hot.....could be the rec/reg is overheating....relocation to a more suitable spot in the breeze may be what is needed. Check with suzuki/gsxr forums and mechanics for known problems and solutions ?
  3. Yeah the location is a known problem. I'm planning on making up a bracket and placing it on the lhs of the frame, just never gotten around to it.

    Just such a pain in the ass. Currently got the battery on a trickle charger so we'll see how it goes on monday :facepalm:
  4. Most bikes won't charge when they are idling, you need to be at cruising revs to charge.As teh revs increase the voltage on the battery will increase and so the fuel pump sounds buzzier. The battery at 10.5 volts is not good it may recover if you charge it with an external charger or if it has been pushed too flat they sometimes don't recover. The hearing the fuel pump more is probably a sign of low voltage, it won't be pushing as much fuel with low voltage and so has to run longer.

    Could be regulator, could be Alternator stator windings. You need to do a few tests:

    1: Check the alternator
    - Disconnect the Alternator from the regulator
    - Start the bike
    - Set yur Multimeter to be AC volts, if it has ranges set a range that will allow about 50 volts
    - Rev the bike and measure voltage line 1-2 2-3 3-1 Voltage should be 30V+
    2: If the alternator is good switch the bike off, reconnect the Regulator, find a known good battery.
    - Change your multimeter to DC volts
    - Measure the voltage with the bike not running across the battery.
    - Start the bike measure the battery voltage at idle
    - Rev the bike to cruise revs and measure the battery voltage.

    Let us know what you find.
    • Like Like x 1
  5. So an update, took my charged battery to work and placed it in my bike. Rode 40mins to get it home and it was all uneventful. I did hear the fuel pump buzz again though.

    I tested the voltage of the bike when it was warm:
    13.5v idle
    14.7v @ 5000rpm

    The bike switched off showed 12.8v

    Didn't get a chance to test the stator or do a test of the rec/reg.

    One thing that was different from the last times though is that the fan never kicked on (didn't get hot enough for it too) and I have a sneaking suspicion that whenever the fan kicks on that the charging system starts to go funny....

    Will do proper tests tonight.
    • Informative Informative x 1
  6. If you follow the wire back from the fan to where it connects to the loom and you bridge the connection with a bit of wire in the back of the connector you could make it come on and test the voltage drop with your multimeter
  7. Probably not a Stator or regulator 14.7 v is a good charge voltage. Can't hurt to do the stator check though.
  8. Well didn't get a chance to take the bike apart today, but what I did manage to note though was 13 hours after my ride, the rec/reg was still warm to touch :-/

    Also the voltage ended up dropping to 11.7v throughout the day which was strange...
  9. Ok that's pointing to a short in the regulator. The regulator remains across the battery all the time, it is not switched by the kill switch or ignition switch. The short will be drawing current back from the battery and heating up, Disconnect the regulator when you leave it overnight, you could melt wiring and you are stressing the battery. If you leave it disconnected it should be cold in the morning.

  10. I sympathize arlennnnarlennnn. Just did this dance with my RVF. I feel like i need to take a spare battery, stator and reg/rec with me on my rides...plus some fuses. Changed the regulator after it blew up then the battery stopped getting charged so bought another stator with no luck. Put the old stator back and is starts charging? Now i don't know why it is working.
    My regulator is drawing .394mA from my battery but i think that is standard.
    Hey cjvfrcjvfr, i thought you left the regulator connected to the stator when checking the AC volts.
  11. Probably best to do it both ways. The Open circuit test gives you an idea if there are shorted turns because the voltage will not rise as high as expected and will not be balanced between windings.

    On the other hand some open circuit faults will mask themselves on an open circuit test, a poor connection internal to the stator is an example. A load test where you have the Regulator attached will give you some idea on that type of problem. In this case it sounds like the Reg has an internal short so you may have got different AC voltages on each winding under load.

    If the regulator is faulty though, depending on the nature of the fault, you may get voltage imposed back on to the stator windings which can mask problems the other way.
    • Like Like x 1
  12. I'll give that a try HondaCTHondaCT to at least rule it out :)

    Thanks cjvfrcjvfr! I'll pull the reg/rec out tonight and do a diode test on it, and maybe find someone with a variable voltage charger to do a bench test for me. If it fails I'm taking it back to the mechanics and (hopefully) asking for another....

    Or I'll buy a mosfet unit from the states to replace it.

    NedccNedcc how fun is it! haha. I absolutely "love" electronics.
  13. Suzuki got a bad batch of reg/rec from their suppliers a while ago, and had to do a recall. It might be worth checking to see if your bike was included in the recall list. You may get a free reg/rec.
    Also I once had a charging problem & new reg/rec only partially fixed. It turned out also have a bad earth. Check harness to chasis & battery negative to engine points.

    Sounds like your regulator is toast though if it stays hot & drains battery with ignition off.
  14. Sadly I missed out on the recall by one year :(
  15. Okay did a diode test just then with the r/r out. The negative output wires seemed to be in spec, 0.45v.

    The red output wire though showed 0.97v which if the electrical troubleshooting flowchart tells me is correct, is out of spec.

    Attached Files:

  16. Hopefully you are getting there.
    Mine is not charging again which i kinda expected since i wasn't sure why it started working again in the first place. Intermintent electical problems have to be close to the top in the pain in the arse chart.
    Nice flow chart btw. I'll be needing it tonight.

  17. Sorry I can't see what point of the test you are in the flow chart so I am a bit unsure of what your results mean. Can you tell me page number and rough location?
  18. Sorry cjvfrcjvfr, step #3
  19. Ok, Is is a MosFET regulator the readings are not necessarily applicable if it is. If it is a plain diode rectifier then it could indicate a reg failure. From the location it is mounted you describe it is a likely option. I still come back to you saying it is hot many hours later which makes me think it has an internal short.

    You could check if there is current flow, (if your multimeter has a DC current range) when the bike is off. Pick the highest DC current range you have generally 10A on many multimeters.

    1. Put the Reg back in place.
    2. Disconnect the battery and put the multimeter in line with the disconnected wire and the battery. You are not going to pull high current so just holding the connection or taping them is fine.
    3. With the bike off there should be no current flow, or perhaps very low current it has an immobiliser.
    4. If you are getting current flow disconnect the Regulator, if current flow stops that's the culprit.
    • Agree Agree x 1
  20. Nah it's not a mosfet type.

    Did the test and it's showing a constant 0.5v drain with the bike off, disconnecting the rec/reg didn't change it.

    Also did a resistance test on the stator and that passed. And did a no-load test on it too and all three tests passed.

    What I didn't notice until today though, was that the stator connector has a bit of oil in it, I'm wondering if this could've caused the issue...

    Took the connectors all apart, cleaned them all, put it back together and I've connected the multimeter to the battery so will see what reading's I get while riding the bike.