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gsxr1000!!! k6 or k7???

Discussion in 'Bike Reviews, Questions and Suggestions' started by gsxr movistar, Apr 9, 2007.

  1. am upgrading my k2 gsxr600 to a 1000 and am wondering if anyone knows if k7 is really better than k6?have heard new one isnt as good.and can get good price 4 k6.thanx :?

  2. No idea, but my friend who lives & breathes Gixxers is getting the K7

  3. Latest AMCN has a write up on it and after reading it


    ...but how can I justify $18990 +orc compared to the ZX10 for $14500+orc :shock:
  4. Just read about a new pipe for the K7 GSXR1000. It cuts out the two massive pipes saving over 9kgs. Of course it isn't street legal either (at least in the UK).


    I think if you could get the K6 for a good price I would go for it.

    By the way, verreh nice photo there MG.
  5. thanx guys.thinkin k6.. :cool:
  6. There's quite a few aftermarket pipes around already. Mostly just single sided one's similar to the K6 would have, but obviously look heaps better than the stock twin pipe arrangement.
  7. Wow is there really that much of a difference in price between the suzuki and the latest kawasaki ZX-10?
  8. I'm sure you could haggle the Suzuki down a bit as that's the RRP, but that's what you can get a ZX10 for and I doubt any Sizuki dealer is going to drop that much on a new release bike yet. :evil:
  9. As far as I am aware the k7 is almost a completely new bike. New engine, suspension etc.. I luuuuurv the new twin pipes, plus the engine managment feature is a cool one. There is a little "mode" button next to the accelertor that lets you change between 3 engine power setttings. The guy I bought my bike off (sv 650) descibed the settings to me as "#1cool, #2shit and #3holly fcuk" :) I liked the idea of it because you could drop the engine back on rainy days to help you not axe yourself.

    I had a sit on the first one they wheeled out at the shop, man it's nice. It weighs about 6 kg more than my SV but sooooooo much more ticker. I want one, but when I only have 3000km on my current bike, I can't really justify buying another so soon.

    The body has changed a little also. I think if you could get a k6 for 16 or so, then it might be worth it. But I think in a month or so you could haggle a thousand bucks off one at least.
  10. very good point.
  11. \
    ive ridden the k6 thou, but i seatled for the k6 600.. im fine with the 600 for now. but the impressions i got from the 1000 was nice, didnt feel as nimble as the 600 but foarrrrrrr, loving the snap on power..the accelration was spastic. and to me it didnt feel like it wanted to let me know what the top speed was. faster faster. awesome fun. to me.

    if the bike hasnt got changes dramaticlly in difference over 1 year period. i wouldnt really bother about the k7. would go the k6. reson being its a lil cheaper you have more feed back about people riding them..

    hope that helped :grin:
  12. I'd go for the K6.

    I don't like the twin pipes on the K7 (granted it can be fixed for $$), and the 3 selectable fuel/ignition map modes seems like a load of wank to me (confirmed by teh amcn test in the current issue).

    The K7 is also heavier, and no more powerful than the K6. Wait 6 months until dealers are struggling to get rid of the last K6's and clean up on a great deal...
  13. thats what ive been hearin 2.euro3 emmisions laws have strangled it a bit 2.and as the bike dealer told me about the a,b,c maps,when are u eva gonna not use the(a)map,seriously???
  14. I have a K6 1K but have never ridden a K7. You really cant go wrong with a liter bike, they are al super fast. Just some are not as fast as others. It comes down to budget, looks, useage, etc etc.

    Compared to other bikes, the K6 feels faster then a mates 900RR on 1/2 throttle then his pinned. Its more flickable and smaller. Seems more stable too when leaned over.

    Another mates R1 feels docile in comparison until it gets up there and as the torque and power come on way up there at the same time, feels less useable. I.e more threatening and more prone to wheelies, which can effect acceleration. Not sure about the 07 but, supposed to have more mid range but mixed reviews so far.

    I am yet to ride a mates 06 10R but assume its similar to my K6 but the seating position is more racy. I.e leaned forward. Its also larger, feels longer and maybe a touch heavier. Its a bit too big for my liking (5'8'' 70 kg) and my back wont agree unless im off the seat.

    I can keep up with him and he has pipes + a TRE so its more wheelie prone but thats how he likes his bikes.

    K6 Vs. K7
    Yes, you will drop about 10 kg from a decat slip on which will be about 4-5kg lighter then a K6.

    Power anyone?

    Blue: Stock
    Red: w/ LeoVince Slip-Ons
    Green: w/ LeoVince Corsa Full System
    Purple: LeoVince Corsa Full System w/ VP MR9 (87 octane)
    Pink: 2006 GSX-R1000 Stock

    Any bike that makes a K6 1K look inadequate is an animal! 175 atw is about what a K6 will do with full akra exhaust, PC3 and filter. The K7 does it standard! There are complaints from K6 owners that the mid range is not as nice which the dyno indicates. Check out the red trace, its all but gone and makes about what a K6 will with a slip on, but will rocket on above 11,000. Seems to be exhaust, not cat related as I initially thought.

    Differences seem, front head light (Still crap), tyres, new ECU, Lighter valves, more duration, revised ports, cat and ugly exhaust (easy fix as cammo mentioned). Im sure there is more but there is only so much info at the moment. One thing for sure more info will be available shortly. Gixxer.com is where most of the info will be posted as owners/tuners find out.

    More info here:

    I agree with chip, would only buy an R1 for the looks, the K6 rides much nicer. It has more torque then the 06 R1 at 8K then the R1 has period! Means jack shit in a race but on the street is very nice to have.

    Mode A vs. Mode C dyno


    Personally, I like it. I would prefer a 110hp 600cc mode, 135-140hp early R1, K6 Gix 750 mode then full power. I.e graphs that have the same curve but have a certain % less all over the rev range and with a similar torque curve to a 1K but less on the lower power settings.

    This would be perfect for me as some riding I do requires less power, say the twisties. More flowing, higher speed, I can choose to go up! I have multiple programs for my car which is loaded via laptop and use it all the time, especially at different tracks where different boost/power delivery is optimal. I cant figure out why Suzuki geeks chose the modes they did... If they had options like what I suggested, I would buy one straight away as it would suit ALL of my needs.

    As for the K6, its totally chuckable, flops in nice has grunt everywhere and in 2nd gear will easily do power wheelies on 1/2 throttle where it also proceeds to try and rip your arms from its socket at about 7-8000. Out of all the liter bikes I have ridden, all with various stages of tune/mods the K6 in stock form has been the one to stand out overall- Which is why I bought one.

    It will do about 160 in first and nearly 200 in 2nd which is common for a liter bike but even though the engine is still running in (1600 klms) and the RPM/throttle I am limited to what I can do. It will dash from 120 to 160 in what seems like 2 seconds but is probably more like 3-4 with the gear I have to be in due to run in. Obviously qucker in 2nd gear!

    Its the type of bike that is fast, but is so smooth in its power/torque delivery that you often look down and find your a much faster then what you thought- will do wheelies, spin up and drift all at the same time (someone teach me). The induction noise, oh the induction noise! R1's buck and heave a bit, gets tiring after a while, giving it a heap of gas, then backing off or short shifting as power/torque come on so you dont spin up or flip. This is from riding one in the twisties. My mate has gotten used to it, he likes it! I would buy one if I wanted a liter bike that can be ridden with a fair bit of throttle but not be bucked off in the lower RPM. Sort of like making you look cool by gassing it up on the street, giving the bike a bit but doing it a touch slower and feeling a lot safer. R1 owners will hate me for saying that, but thats my impression, go jump on a K6 before posting. As I said, it would suit me for a specific reason but I dont ride a bike for that reason so its of little use. But they look, by far the best out of the liter bikes, Hands down IMO. Might even consider one as a track only bike as it has the goods when up there. The CBR feels slow in comparison, its quick, but my short ride left me disappointed. Where is the power? I was taking 2nd grabs as I wasnt sure! Its fast, but eh. Quiet, refined. The least ''raw" bike and very tame.

    I dont regret buying the bike, but I do a lot less Suburbian riding now and a liter bike is hard to use effectively in the twisties even though im a gear higher (run in) its still faaaast. I can take a slow entry, hardly lean it and roll on the throttle and easily catch back up to mates on 600's going full pelt. It requires less effort to ride fast, just use the huge torque curve. If im hung over, I will take this bike, it doesn't require a lot of effort to go fast. For most people, thats good, but for me, im used to keeping up, passing and pulling away from bigger bikes on a 400. Im not saying im a legend, far from it! A lot of guys try but probably back off due to the thing between their ears (or maybe big fish, little pond syndrome?!), but the rush you get is great! There is always someone faster! I like the effort of riding hard and this was the only reason why I considered an 06 R6, ride it in hot, maintain mid corner speed and on the gas early and get it in its sky high power zone. Im not good enough to do that on a liter bike.

    If I get 15.5K for my bike (1600 klm, nearly 12 months warranty left) I will get a R6- simply for the reason I can ride it quickly with mates on 600's, and maybe even give my mates on liter bikes a bit of stick. I didnt get the R6 because its a bit boring to ride in mundane street/suburbia and needed the guts rev'd out of it. Thats changed now! By the time you get to the meat of the grunt, your doing 100 in a 50 zone. Things change, what can you do! The K6 has more torque at 4,000 then what an R6 has period. Scratch that, it has more torque (period) then a Daytona 675, actually, scratch that one more time, it has more torque then a Duke 749 period! This gives you an idea of what im saying when I say its fast, even when ridden between 4 and 6,000 RPM. Hence why you can ride fast, but not thrash the bike. Its great! Try that in an R1!

    18900+ OR for a K7 No thanks. I would rather wait until they depreciate a bit and pick up a really low k one and save thousands off new. Even better if its just run in (like mine), you get the "boring bit" out of the way! Not that running in is that boring, The K6 does about 200 at 8K in top gear which is what I limited the 2nd stage of run in to. 14.5K for a 10R- thats about 17.5K ride away- probably for an 06 run out! K6 Run outs are 18K. Most Supersports and Super bikes are priced within $500 except ducati... Everyone would buy 10R's if they were 4.5K Cheaper and are a great bike. I would over looks its "too big for me" flaw and ride around it.

    2 things I personally dont like about the K7. Tacho face looks...how can I say, rice! The "carbon look" bits under the tank, trick if it was real. Plastic made to look like carbon is a no cool! While people will make new faces in EL and real carbon trims, its all a matter of time and will be expensive when first released.

    Try this independent test

    I wouldn't expect too much off RRP- there is a shit load of hype going around on the K7, im mean 10 hp min more then the K6! If anything, expect to get the CBR and 10R a little off. The R1 is responding well to mods but still has the gaping hole in the mid range that Yamaha love but are now trying to tune out (NB R1 owers, every one knows its no monster mid range).

    What more can I say, maybe I should work as a writer?!

    If you want more info on my bike, PM me. As I said, im not 100% sure on what I want to do, every time I ride it, it does it again. Maybe I need to take it up for a decent run through the mountains.

    Lastly, there is a guy in the US doing 9.7 1/4 miles on a stock K6 strapped and lowered. That was with some drag racing champ on it. I believe it has now run a 9.4 with some mods. Sure are some talented people out there...
  15. I have a K7.
    In standard trim I think it was a little tame in the low end, with most of its power way up the rev range.

    My previous bike was a K1 GSXR1000 and I felt that was more of an animal down low, although I did have one tooth down on the front sprocket, the usual mods - exhaust, power commander etc. which was dyno tuned at 153 rear wheel HP.

    Well, I have just had my K7 fitted with a single sided Racefit Mega exhaust, K&N air filter, Power Commander and custom map tuned to 175 rear wheel HP, and now it is an absolute animal. The difference is the torque curve has been moved down the rev range so it is more easily accessible.
    I say buy the K7 gixxer, if you want to take it easy leave it as standard and you wont really get into any trouble until the revs are up, but if you want a real exciting machine, do the exhaust - power commander thing.
  16. as if anyone here, riding in the street is going to notice any real difference, except that you think people are checkin out your coolness :roll:
    get the six.
  17. I was in at the bike shop last week and apparently a Gixxer 1000 K6 can be had for $16,500 on road. I think the K6 represents better value for money than the K7, particularly if you take into account the cost of a new exhaust for the K7.
  18. the zx10 is last years model and you will prob see a new one pop up soon

    in saying that if you can find a k6 you will be paying the same as the 10