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GSX250F Chain Noise

Discussion in 'Technical and Troubleshooting Torque' started by Alexy23, May 11, 2012.

  1. So the other day I tightened up my chain (pulled back the rear axle). I gave it about 1/2-1 inch free play. Now when I slow down I hear a scraping noise.

    My assumption is that the further you pull the rear axle back, the lesser the angle to the drive cog, and that now when I slow down, the slack is grouping up and scraping just under the chain part.

    See attachment for a better explanation.

    I went to my local mechanic and he said I will need new cogs, and chain ($600 fitted).

    Just wondering - how hard is this job to do? And what parts will I need.

    Bike is Suzuki Across GSX250F 1999

    Edit: The bike does make a clicking sound when rolling in neutral.

    Attached Files:

  2. Does sound like you may need to replace the chain and sprockets. If your sprockets have been worn out far enough and when you tighten the chain up, the chain doesn't "unhinge" properly as it rolls over the rear sprocket, making clicking noises and chain slapping as it comes off the sprocket.

    It's not hard to do this yourself if you are mechanically minded and have the tools (or imaginative with existing tools). I changed mine by myself with the help of a friend...since he had the tools. The hardest part would be to remove the chain if the master link is a rivet type link. If it's a clip type, it is pretty straight forward...however I don't trust the clip type ones anymore having lost 2 clip retainer clips before. My master links are now rivet types (one on the race bike and one on the road).

    It is also easier if you have a rattle gun, makes it much quicker to remove the rear sprocket.

    If you buy something like this from ebay (which I think is pretty cheap) you can do it yourself in one day...assuming nothing breaks.
  3. Phongus has pretty much covered it Alexy, although when I last did one I cut the old chain with the 4" angle grinder to remove it, laid it beside the new chain then cut the new one to the correct length (assuming you're keeping the existing gearing). I used a rivetting tool to flare the pins on the joiner link, making sure the "O" rings were seated properly.

    Fortunately, I had access to a cordless rattle gun so the front sprocket could be changed easily. Yes, these tools cost money but I'm likely to use them in the future and there's no way I'd ever let myself be ripped off 600 bucks for a job like that.

  4. Get yourself a good chain tool; it will pay for itself the first time you use it.

    I can recommend the Motion Pro PBR Chain Tool (Press, Break, Rivet), but there are other good ones out there... just make sure it suits your chain size.

    You'll find plenty of "how to's" on the internet, written and videos, they're a great source for free education.

    A good basic spanner and socket set can be bought for about $150 nowadays, and you'll only need the odd "special" tool to get the job done... like a BIG socket or ring-spanner to undo the front sprocket.