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GSX 1400 vs FZ1

Discussion in 'Bike Reviews, Questions and Suggestions' started by Removed_User4, Feb 21, 2007.

  1. Im getting a new bike and want to hear from owners only of FZ1 and GSX 1400. These are the two I'm tossing up over. I know all the specs on the two but want to hear about the smaller idiosyncrasies of each bike please. And the comfort factor over long country rides, is the FZ1 still in a to much of a hunched over position to experience comfort?

    Also is there much modifications mucking around and expense to extract more power out of the GSX? Eg; What would cams, bigger throttle bodies and better exhaust achieve and cost?
  2. GSX is heavy and much less sporty, although you wouldn't know it following Sir Skuffy up the GOR, he can make the fat old thing boogie. FZ1 meets Euro 3, which means it's strangled to the shithouse and useless low in the rev range - but it's set up for much faster riding.
  3. Yeah, Ive heard that GSX1400 can surprisingly keep with sports bikes in the twisties and chicanes...something I haven't had to compare between the two yet. But hasn't the GSX been strangled also (only 34mm throttle bodies)? I love the torque of the GSX and I think the engine has a lot of modification potential as I love top speed.
  4. A friend of mine was once on a hard ride with a small group on the latest and greatest only for them all to be completely carved up by some bloke on a GSX-1400. They caught up with him as he was leaving the next servo - Shawn Giles. :)
  5. Noted, but he'd probably would have beaten them by more of a gap if he was on a 06 GSXR 1000...maybe...as the GSXR 1000 has the same torque, more hp and lighter.
  6. Be under no illusions, the GSX14 is harder to ride fast than almost any sportsbike.
  7. WOW, my favorite type of thread... I feel like that little caracter on the kids move Cars....

    The GSX1400 is the perfect touring bike. It has ample torque, excellent luggage carrying capacity and quite good fuel economy also. From a mechanical standpoint, i have 57,000km on the clock and she is still running perfectly.

    Can she run with the sport bikes - ask some of the people here.... :LOL: :LOL: In the twisties, like a big old dirtbike...... You can back it into corners and slide out of corners..... On high speed chicanes, a little bit of movement due to the frame flexing a little, but ride it hard and she will deliver..... juicy part of the band, 3,000 to 5,500rpm :cool: :cool:

    If you want it for touring and some light sport riding - definately 100% worth the price of admission. if you want to ride it in a more spirited fashion, get a jackup kit, MX bars and a steering damper..... And maybe some cans for that nice growl from the motor... Aaprt from that, leave it stock ---- oh, maybe a screen for minimise wind buffeting.

    Am I going to sell it, nope...... I am embarassing alot of sport bike riders... :LOL:
  8. :LOL: GOLD :LOL:
  9. Loz makes a very good point.....

    It is a little harder, but not that much harder..... It has MX bars so that helps transition the bike through the twisties..... To make it run hard, you have to move around on the bike and work it, but it really is forgiving and the brakes are AMAZING. :LOL:
  10. Now, if you want to hot it up;

    New Headers - $1k
    New Cans - $1k
    New Cams - Yoshi - $2.5k fitted
    PCIII - $400
    MX bars - $200
    Jackup kit - $400
    steering dampner - $800
    braided lines - $400
    This will increase power about 35%

    Do you need it, nope :LOL: :LOL:

    All you need is the following;
    MX bars - $200
    Jackup kit - $300
    Cans - $900
    Steering dampner - $800
    and save yourself about $4.5k and still beat the sport bikes :LOL: :LOL: :LOL: :LOL:

    Look at it this way, how crappy will a guy on a $20k bike with all the hop-up parts on the planet feel when you pass him on the twisties on a bike that has half the power and almost twice the weight and based on an 80's design..... Now that is :LOL: GOLD :LOL:
  11. It should be noted that Skuffy is an ex-supermoto racer.

    Don't try this at home. ;)

  12. Those parts are plentiful but it won't be cheap at the end of the day. Forget all that and buy an off the shelf turbo kit for it. Plenty of mumbo, and the engine will take to it superbly.

    Not sure if Giles was riding a turbo 1400 or not for those that saw him that day, but he did do a roadtest on one in Rapid mag a while ago and he loved the thing!
  13. I don't think "gap" would adequately describe it in your hypothetical case. :)
  14. A certain somebody at PS Melb has recently upgraded to a GSX1400 and when I asked him what he thought of it his reply was something along the lines of "mate it could climb the walls". He loves it and says it's got buckets of torque/power and is great fun to ride. what else could you want? :)
  15. So your saying it was a big difference the GSX1400 beat them by? Just to calibrate the scenario better, what equivalent riders would we all know whom could be compared were on the sports bikes. Better PM me the answer to this.
  16. Your input is assisting me heaps S.S. What seat height becomes when jacked up sufficiently for handling?

    New Headers - $1k
    New Cans - $1k
    New Cams - Yoshi - $2.5k fitted

    Your saying 35% power increase. Please elaborate. It couldn't increase the torque by much, so I'm assuming the HP is what your suggesting. Have you got a dyno sheet? What about those piss small 34 mm throttle bodies, surely they must go. With new cams mentioned what happens to the power curve? Why cant the original cams be reground?

    I wouldnt be modifying it for a while at least 10,000km (6-7 months riding)and I was thinking about turbo. Depending if the bearings and journals are broad enough to withstand considerably extra boost.

    People who know me know I like edging on the smaller fractions of the sound barrier types of speed. So eventually it will be a fast version depending on if my SR20 powered bike gets registered.

    S.S. could you PM me your mobile please.

  17. Ok what about FZ1's?

    Anybody to elaborate?
  18. So S.S., that means you must be really blowing away those Harley's and cruisers then! :LOL: :wink:
  19. :shock: :shock: ??
  20. I think one of the first things you'll be doing is changing sprockets to compensate for the adjustments in torque further up the rev range. Dealers will do this for you if you ask pre-delivery, as they're aware that it's common.

    It also has a bit of snatchiness, due to a slight glitch in the FI. This I've experienced on a test ride. You'd probably just get used to this, as I've read others have who have bought them.

    I don't own one but did a bit research as I was seriously considering a new one. I don't think the torque/power deficit over the old model is as bad as some people are making out, it's just not quite up there with the latest R1s etc. and is slightly re-tuned over the motor in that bike. Journos *always* complain about this sort of stuff (eg. "they should have just left the motor alone from the R1", or when manufacturers do, it's "they should have re-tuned for more mid-range grunt"), but I feel they take things to extreme to show up any minor faults, and they also do strange things like examine a bike on it's merits (eg. a naked street bike *should* be returned for mid-range grunt, and this one is a little more top end).