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GSR600R Brake Pad help needed please - ASAP!

Discussion in 'Technical and Troubleshooting Torque' started by Pommy, Feb 12, 2008.

  1. Hi all,

    Anyone know how to get the new pads back on with the new discs?

    I can't get the gap to open enough to slide over the disc?

    Is there a trick?

    Here's 2 pics:



    Any help appreciated.

  2. Use a G-clamp to push the piston back into the caliper. :wink:
  3. Or if you dont have G-clamp , ues your old pads and carefully push the piston back with a screwdriver or small tyre lever etc.

    Ps: are you doing surgery or working on yah bike ?

    Bloody whimps these days using gloves

    :rofl: :-k :bolt:
  4. Thanks guys - no G-Clamp though.

    And the piston is stuck SOLID - looks athough it ain't moved in YEARS!

    I have since got one side on, but the other there is NO chance - the gap is way too small.. arrrgh.

    The gloves? You should see what I'm wearing...

    Just kiddin!

  5. crack the master cyinder a bit and force them back with a screw driver
    do one side at a time with the caliper bolted on the fork then slide the pads in

    this may require bleeding after your done

    ps the easy way to bleed is get a big fcuk off syringe fill it with brake fluid and force the air out

    works everytime on the prillia

  6. Cheers - I'll give that a go in the morning Andrew!

    I have to change the rear disc too and do all this again, with the chain too this time I may just get a mechanic...

    I'll let ya know if I can get the piston to move cos I did try earlier and the round bit started to crumble away so I left it.

    Oh and VTRBOB - I just noticed your tiny writing calling me a wimp, that's your first error and the second was to assume.

    When I'm not surfing, 4WD, fishing or at the gym you can find me drilling...

    I'm a dentist. Now - would you want my dirty finger nails in your mouth after playing with my bike? No. That's why I use gloves.

  7. Just noticed that 'tiny' text
    :rofl: :rofl:
  8. if you need to shift the pads on either side, jam a screw-driver between each set, then pump the brakes. voila, an instant lever to lever the pads back (using the old pads, of course.) Also make sure that the brake master cylinder is now not totally full.

    Also, a technique I use is to get a long bit of clear hose, fill the master cylinder, and then open the bleed valve, suck on the hose til the res is low (doesn't take much effort), tighten, stop sucking, fill and repeat until you get liquid appearing, then bleed as normal.

    Also, as per the gloves, i found rubber dipped cotton gloves to be invaluable for working, no grit under your fingernails, less cuts (and less potential infections), and easy clean up. the only downside is the cotton gloves retain liquids close to your skin (encouraging derma), and the cost factor.

    However, when I was working in the truck factory, gloves were encouraged, and proven. Since the company had initiated gloves, reported hand injuries went down 300%, meaning that there were less lacerations, a sacrificial layer between your skin and the tools, less impact injuries, the only downside is that gloves retain swarf chips, hence causing splinters.

    Naturally, latex gloves are good, but useless as soon as you start working with chem.
  9. Now THAT sounds like the way to go!

    I really appreciate all the help you guys/girls provide - I've saved SO much money learning myself.

    Only thing is, I don't have a manual so I don't know any of the torque settings.

    The discs were both hard to get off as they had thread-lock on them - not knowing if this is the norm, I got some and did the same.

    I might just get a mechanic to check over all the work when I'm done - what do you think?


  10. If you can ride the bike to the shop, it's probably okay.

    get the bolt diameter, and jump on the net to see if there are any ready torque measurements to that M* spec bolt. Personally, I just go until I'm comfortable, at manufacture it's okay to torque to spec, but unless you've got a coarse thread and a long reach, I would go close to spec but leave it 5-15 percent off spec if I'm running it into aluminium or plate steel, to avoid thread damage.

    Or, if torque specs are not available, tighten them firmly until you are comfortable with the torque (use a ratchet or something with a smaller reach then a breaker bar/torque wrench - the longer, the less feel, and the more chance for over-torquing. (600mm Breaker bars are useful, however... :p)

    Good move loctiting, if you ride the bike and it feels okay, good, check the threads after bedding the brakes, then a few days later. (try to finger-untighten the bolts when the brakes are cool to check)

    If all is good, brakes are firm, congratulations on replacing your brakes.
  11. Invaluable advice mate - great!

    I should really check over all the work after about 100k's or so?

    I do have one side on and that one sounds "metal to metal" when I spin the front wheel, I guess that would be normal?

    And if I get half-way? Ha ha...!