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GS500 Manual and rpm data

Discussion in 'Bling and Appearance' started by the mole, May 24, 2008.

  1. Just bought a registered 'repaired wreck' GS500. All good except for dent in tank and no tacho. Might get a tacho down the track if I find a cheap one, meanwhile could a GS500 owner give me an idea what speed the bike does in the top 4 gears at say 5000 rpm? Then I know I'm safe at up to double that speed!
    Also chasing an owners and/or workshop manual. It had 3900ks when I bought it, so assume it had the 1000km service. When are the next few oil/filter changes due, and what type of oil is recommended. Thanks!!

  2. Probably best off going into your dealer to get the books for it, but if you're just after a quick reference then check out this post here.

    All the info you should need will be in there, should be able to pick up a tacho from the wreckers cheap (New GS's use an electric tacho).
    They tend to run well on synthetic oil, so maybe thats something you can look into after you get it 100% (No point wasting money)

    ...And here's a graph of RPM Vs Speed through the gears, hope this helps.
  3. Hey, thanks a lot for your help! David.
  4. hahaha, 225km in 6th my ass :LOL: :LOL: :LOL:

    You don't really need a tacho, just don't rev the tits off its. The GS puts out most of it's power well before redline, so there isn't a need to get it up there.
  5. Where do you think manufacturers get their theoretical top speed from?
  6. That graph is showing the theoretical top speed, if you want to calculate in wind resistance ect then go ahead.

    It's more or less correct, in the real world it does just over 5000 RPM in 6th at 100kph.

    You should get a feel for when the bike loses its power at high RPM (9k+)
    I wouldn't recommend taking it over that, keep in mind the GS doesn't have a rev limiter.
  7. Thanks for the posts, I'm not likely to rev it hard, just enough to stay ahead of the tin-tops, its just nice to have an idea whats going on.
    I'm actually thinking of going up a tooth on the front sprocket, as I'm mostly using it for a 115km commute to work (yeah, each way!) and I like tall gearing, and it feels like it'd handle it. Anybody tried it?

    I actually bought a GS500 because I owned a GS450 in the early 80's and it was a great all round bike after a couple of fun but too-many-hours-in-the-workshop Ducatis. So far I'm very pleased with it.
  8. David,

    If you're still interested, I still have the workshop manual for my GS500 (2002 K2). I would be happy to part with it for the price of postage.

    P.M. if your interested, I'll send a picture of the cover to show you the details.
  9. Hi Adinfinitum, thanks for the generous offer! I have just bought a Clymer manual on eBay, but its an older one and doesn't have an up to date wiring diagram (and its not in colour), so yes, I'm very interested. You can email me at <david.julian57@yahoo.com.au> to organise it. Thanks again, David.
    P.S. The bike's going really well.
  10. There are two terms that are useful to know when comparing top speeds of any wheel driven vehicle.
    One is RPM limited, which means the engine/drivetrain ran out of revs but was willing to push teh vehicle further.
    The other is drag limited, which means the engine/drivetrain ran out of torque to overcome aerodynamic drag. Drag limited vehicles are a sign of a manufacturer that did not develop the gearing to suit the vehicle correctly. By moving teh gearing around on a drag limited vehicle, you can achieve far greater acceleration up to the point of the drag limit by using ALL of the rev range.
    I am sure a GS will wind out to it's top speed calculated by gearing and rpm's, all it needs is a perfect vacuum and an air supply for teh engine........

    Regards, Andrew.
  11. top speed

    Well made point, Andrew, which relates to my post about changing the gearing. It is obvious that in the real world, (with 185cm me in a bulky jacket on it and a top box) the GS is drag limited, and as its being used mainly for commuting within the speed limit (OK, more or less!) the top speed is academic.
    I'm interested in raising the gearing by one tooth on the front to reduce cruising RPM with maybe a slight reduction in fuel consumption/engine wear/vibration. This will mean 5th and 6th will be each side of the current 6th. A side effect will be a probable slight increase in real world top speed, by using 5th gear. 6th will be effectively an overdrive.
    Ideally, for someone of my riding style, I'd have a wider ratio gearbox to use that lovely flat torque curve and reduce the number of gear changes. A 5 speed box would be ample!
    Cheers, David.
  12. I'd be more inclined to reduce teh gearing, so you can actually use sixth. If you do this, you'll get more acceleration for a given throttle setting, which could translate to improved economy at the speeds you ride, if you don't use all of teh newfound acceleration performance!
  13. gs500

    Hey boys ;;

    if you are getting 5000rpm in 6th gear at 100ks now '''

    Any idea what you will be sitting on ( RPM) on a freeway at 100ks

    if you did raise the bike up one tooth .

    Just trying to calculate the difference as I have a new GS500f on order And 80% of my time is on the freeway ,

    thanks for a exhalant post
  14. Going from a 15T to a 16T = 5000rpm to 4687rpm
    Going from a 14T to a 15T = 5000rpm to 4667rpm

    It's all just ratios, so rock out with your calc out.
  15. Re: top speed

    The GS500 already has excellent fuel consumption, even when you are reasonably heavy on the throttle. I could regularly get over 300km to a tank, even when scratching around the mountains. When just cruising along the highway I've heard of well over 400km before reserve.

    Don't worry about engine wear either - they will last forever, even when you abuse them.

    As such, I think raising the gearing would be a bit of overkill, and would make make the acceleration quite sluggish. There's even the potential that the 'overdrive' gear would put the engine under too much load. The GS500 is probably the best commuter bike around, so there's not much need to change it!

    Edit - if your commute is hilly or very stop/start, Typhoon's idea of dropping a tooth makes a lot of sense... as long as you can resist the temptation to constantly crack the throttle wide open!
  16. gearing

    Ausjc, you're right. I probably won't bother to change it until I wear out the current chain/sprockets, but I like to tweak things :).
    I went up a tooth on my GS450 back in the early 80s, and liked it. Around town and up to 80-90kph I could treat it as a 5 speed and save the hassle of that extra gear change, and 6th was fine as a cruising gear. As long as you're not after a blistering standing start, the acceleration through the gears is not materially different. There is slightly less torque at the back wheel at a given road speed in each gear, but you can hold each gear a bit longer. Overall, if you're keeping the motor in an appropriate rev range that's what matters. I rarely ride with a pillion and am not into the ultimate drag off the lights, just want to stay ahead of the cars, so I can live with a slightly slower initial takeoff in 1st.
    I'm finding that there is a slightly annoying vibration at 110 km/h that is not there at 100, so if I can move the rpm down from about 5500 to about 5150 in 6th at 110, I'll be happy. (I commute 110 km each way to work 90% of it on the freeway at 110km/h).
    Food for thought anyway.
  17. Yeah, give it a run as-is and see how it goes - no point swapping out a perfectly good sprocket!

    I hear you on the vibration problem; I used to lose bar-end weights on a regular basis. I think it gets worse as you rev it harder, as I'd almost always find them coming loose after a fast ride.
  18. Hey mole,

    is this what you're after?
    If so, I'll email you with some details.

    P.S. sorry it's taken a week to reply, I've been away.