Welcome to Netrider ... Connecting Riders!

Interested in talking motorbikes with a terrific community of riders?
Signup (it's quick and free) to join the discussions and access the full suite of tools and information that Netrider has to offer.

GS500 Brakes - The cheap way to get it to stand on its nose

Discussion in 'Modifications and Projects' started by pfeff260, Nov 10, 2008.

  1. So i bet you all think (as i did) that a single disc 2 piston floating caliper and single piston rear cant adequately stop a 160-170kg bike...

    Well yes your right, if you leave it as a stock setup...

    So challenged with the project of getting my 2006 Suzuki GS500E to stop, i bought 3 relatively cheap items. $220.

    First get some good Braided Brake Lines made. ie. Goodridge or HEL (personally i use Goodridge, most performance brake shops can make the ADR compliant braided lines).

    Second acquire some DOT 5.1 fluid (higher boiling point than the DOT 4 the GS500 runs as OE)

    Third new pads, i use Ferodo Sinter Grip (front) and Ferodo Platinum (rear).

    Fit all these up with the appropriate tools ie. brake vacuum. Once fitted you MUST bed in the pads.

    Simple process of warming up the pads/discs (a few very lite stops) and then doing about 10-15 continuous stops from around 60-80km/h, starting with moderate brake pressure and increasing a little on each stop. (do this on a quiet back street with a good road surface, for safety sake, also less cops...)

    Once you've done this just check that there is a nice even blue/purple tinge to the discs. NOTE: Dont touch them because they will be extremely hot. If they arnt an even blue/purple colour do a few more stops until they are evenly coloured. Also when checking the discs it is important that you dont hold the lever on while the discs/pads are hot... you will most likely hot spot the discs and possibly weld the pads to the disc.

    Following the bed-in of the pads let the brakes cool completely and heat soak through the pads. This in a way heat treats the pads and work hardens them.

    After all this you should have a GS500 that can lift the rear off the ground under braking and out perform most twin disc bikes under brakes...
  2. cheaper to hit the back of a car.. nice work.
  3. nope its not. my mate had someone try that to him, guy crossed to the wrong side of the road an my mate went across his bonnet... needless to say there isnt much left of his Ducati 1098S and the 2 broken bones in his finger cost a shite load more... even though he didnt have to pay a thing for the bike or his medical expenses, he still had to fork out for insurance for the new 1098S.
  4. fair enough.. i was in reference to stopping quickly :wink:
    nothing like good brakes.
  5. my personal choice is HEL lines, RBF600 racing fluid (not DOT rated), stock pads, but most importantly - straight true discs
  6. You're optimisitic there! :LOL:
  7. not really.. would be the best endo machine around im sure
  8. Courtesy of dodgy suspension more than anything. :LOL:
  9. Im not optimistic in thinking it will lift the rear end...

    Because once you get the pads and the discs to temp and stand on the brakes, it lifts regularly.

    The reason being is that running a twin disc setup doesn't aid in stopping power. What it does is evens the load across both discs which allows the system to run cooler.

    What aids the stopping power in most twin discs (sport bike setup) run radial mount 4 piston calipers using 4 opposed pistons, as were something like the GS500 runs a 2 piston floating caliper (opposed is more efficient, though more expensive to manufacture).
  10. first thing im doing tonight is ripping one of my front disks off.
  11. I'm gonna give this a go. Will update next month.
  12. how does a braided brake effect braking performance?
  13. Just buy the uprated pads. If you're running your GS hard enough that dot 4 boils, you've outgrown it.

    Braided lines won't actually make you stop any quicker, but they give better feel because they flex less.
  14. not so much flex, but stops the line from ballooning, meaning less lever travel, better lever feel
  15. I boiled the DOT 4 filled rear brakes on my Ducati three times before I worked out I just needed to stop using them on tight downhill twisties. Thank goodness for twin front discs! 8-[

    They also prevent lever movement being wasted on expanding the brake lines, which can prevent the lever from reaching the handlebar when you still want more brakes. :eek:

    BTW, great thread revival: 18 Months old.
  16. Probably worth pointing out that not all DoT 4 fluids are created equal, most of the high end racing fluids with very high boiling points are DoT 4.
    The DoT 5.1 specification was created to deal with the additional demands based on the brake fluid by ABS systems, it does not specify higher boiling points than the DoT 4 specifications.

    Brake fluid is immensely hydroscopic - ie it absorbs moisture......water boils much more easily than brake fluid. Brake fluids should be changed periodically....chances are that if you are boiling your brake fluid, then it's just overdue for a change of fluids rather than an overhaul of the rest of the brake system.

    You can get little temperature tell-tale stickers that change colour according to the max temperature they have experienced....then you can stop guessing about just how hot the brake calipers were actually getting.
  17. Yup, The GS is a great bike, but quite I bit undersprung I feel. I have bottomed out the front suspension of the wifes 2008 GS500 while going for a blat though the dandenongs.

    What some people also say about braided lines is that becuase the is next to zero give in them (ballooning) it can make it easier to lock up the front, esp in in the hands of the inexperienced.

    It is a learners bike after all.

    spend your dough on tyres and servicing instead and just get out there and ride the phuck out of it, the more km you put under your wheels the first couple of years the better you will be.

    No disrepect intended guys, but The first time you go for a ride on your new gixxer 750, you will feel that all the money you spent in blinging up your LAMS bike was just an exercise in turd polishing.


  18. When I researched brake fluids a couple of years ago, as a result of the boiling, everything I read said DOT 5.1 had higher boiling points. The specification may not require it (I can't remember), but all of the brands I looked at did have a higher boiling point.

    In my case, the bike was still relatively new, but I had the fluid changed, twice, and still boiled it a third time, and I only use high quality brake fluid. It wasn't water retention. It was a heavy foot, plus screaming into corners at speed.

    Good idea. They would need to have a high temperature range. Source?
  19. Most 5.1 fluids are higher spec than common DoT 4 fluids, but almost all of the high performance fluids with boiling points over 300 degrees are DoT 4.

    The point I was trying to make is that DoT 5.1 is not necessarily better than DoT 4 - you need to look at the specific fluid's characteristics.

  20. Better than starting a new one I guess, found this in a search and relevant to me interests it was. :D