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"Grabbits", Are they universal?

Discussion in 'Technical and Troubleshooting Torque' started by kols_kebabs, Aug 13, 2009.

  1. Repairing my slipping clutch, there's a special tool called a "Grabbit" needed to keep the clutch housing from turning when removing the clutch hub nut. Afaik this tool is only available from dealerships, as a genuine yamaha part.


    It would cost me less to pay someone who has the tool to fix the damn thing.

    Given, if I fix the clutch now on this bike, it'll probably last the life of the engine, I'm wondering if I'll ever have reason to use this tool again?

    Do many other bikes have a clutch that needs this tool, and are they of a universal design across various models?

  2. You can usually do it with a couple of bits of flat bar bent at 90 deg and bolted together.

    Some bikes you can just put in gear and put a lump of timber through the back wheel.

    $180 pfffft
  3. Rattle gun and you won't need any locking mechanism.
  4. I always wanted a rattle gun.
  5. Put the bike in 5th or 6th gear and get a friend to hold the rear
    brake on while you undo the nut.
  6. Despite having a mini garage, I could never justify a rattle gun, until a week ago, as it's the only really easy way to break forks, with no stuffing around! Got a nice big 3/4 inch for $70 from supercheap, 1/2 inch reducer socket from total tools for $30. just turn the air down when you don't want silly amounts of hub-bearing-on-car torque.
    Just whatever you do, don't be like a certain nuff nuff tyre shop in minnesota and not start the nuts by hand.... :mad:
  7. I'll get an electric, don't want to buy an air compressor.
  8. No, they are not universal. They only come about when a giraffe mates with a rabbit (which I'm sure you can appreciate is not very often).
  9. Have the clutch/friction plates and springs out, everything is well within spec, thick enough and not warped either.

    Yet the clutch slips badly?

    I do not know what to do now.

    Oil used is Castrol GTX2, yet the internet (including a number of netriders) says this is fine, was the recommended oil for a number of kawasakis.


    All I've inspected is the springs and plates, didn't bother undoing the clutch hub nut and getting the rest out because I'm only experiencing slip, no chatter, if it ain't broke etc...
  10. Not many bikes will get away with car oil.

    Drain it and replace with a fully synthetic car oil. It may come good. If not then you will need to replace the clutch plates.

    Let others know what bike you have, so they know not to use car oil in it.