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Good Oil - Cheap Oil...

Discussion in 'Bling and Appearance' started by daewoo, Dec 22, 2007.

  1. I know I know... there is no such thing as good cheap oil... but my bike is old and crap and I am tight...

    Back in the day when I was racing cars, you could get good deals on Oil from Kmart, stuff that was $50 at the Parts Store, but $30 at Kmart...

    Or we would use Castrol GP50 which was perfect for the application, and relatively inexpensive...

    I have looked at Stupidcheap, and in the Department Stores, but haven't been able to find anything cheap for bikes...

    The bike is an old ('84) XR250, so we aren't talking the most technomological of equipment here, although, I have just freshened up the motor, and because it is a wet sump, it only holds about 2.5L...

    Since the rebuild it has gone from using 1L every 200km to using that about every 2000, but still...

    Is there anywhere that I can get good four stroke engine oil without paying an arm and a leg...

  2. Try some of the Penriye 70w or just get some gear oil, then it won't use much at all between servicing.

    1L each 2000km on a new motor suggests loose tolerances, unless you are wringing it's neck the whole 2000km.

    Some Supermarkets used to sell recycled engine oil, great for old oil burners. was about $10 for 4L a couple of years back.
  3. I'm sure there was a thread recently on using diesel engine oil in bikes - sounds ideal for your situation especially if you buy in bulk.
    Really no need to use "bike oil" provided whatever oil you're using is free from viscosity modifiers that could cause clutch slip.
    I'd strongly recommend against using ultra-cheap oil (eg the plain label stuff) as this is frequently just industrial oil that has been filtered (badly) and still contains a significant amount of crap that could cause serious damage, especially to an Al alloy engine.
  4. I don't really know why I am using (up) oil... there seems to be a fair bit of pressure in the crank case, which I am not happy about, but not upset enough to pull the bike apart again...

    I wasn't so much looking for something really cheap, just something good value...

    I will search for your thread on Diesel Oil... I tried 20w50 normal engine oil in it once when I had run out of motorbike oil and didn't have time to get to the local bike shop, and the clutch wouldn't work... (lots of creeping)...

    I had a Mazda 4200 Diesel Van once, I was working for Telstra in a telephone exchange at the time... they have big diesel generators and buy EXPENSIVE oil in 44 gallon drums... I used to arrive at work, fill my 3L bottle, empty that into the van... refill it and take it home for after the return leg... and it was only about 25km each way... one morning I was running late and didn't fill the oil, end of the van :(

  5. The old XR engine has no oil cooler and a small sump. I had one years ago and changed the oil every 3rd ride. I was using Penzoil as recomended by Ken Colvin (Honda CR/XR Master) as these things get hot and burn oil. The Penzoil was able to cope with the stress that these poorly designed engines go through. You need to make sure you buy the stuff in quart bottles as the stuff in litre bottles is blended here and not as good.
  6. I use Valvoline Premium XLD (20-50) in my SR500; under $20 for 5 litres, bike runs very happily and is the choice of some very mechanically knowing riders. No clutch-slippage issues that I've heard of.

  7. +1 on ol Kenny Colvin, he was the XR magician. I recall the days of going to his garage in Rosanna, when Perry, who now part owns Redwing Honda, used to be his mechanic.
    I had an old XL200 84 model as my 1st trail bike. It used to take a floggin around the hills of Toolangi and Narbethong and burned fair bit of oil. :moped: Oil change wise I used to do do same, every second or 3rd ride, even 1 if it was hot and iffin I gave her a beating :woot: I used Penzoil sometimes back then. We usually used GPX in the tin cans, at 30 bananas for 4 litres :shock: back then in 86. I would maybe email Ballard's XR only- :-k ummmm 8-[ but unfortunately I dont even know if their around anymore.
  8. Ken is still around but only does work for existing customers. He sold up in Bell street when Perry took over K&W (the best ever Honda & Kawasaki shop there was). The old owner of K&W Rex Wolfenden owns T-Rex racing in Heidelberg and works on old air cooled Hondas. I worked with Perrys father for a while and it is a shame Perry did not turn out like his dad. Ken Colvin did alot of work for Ballards XR's only like the big fin heads and big bore kits.
  9. Unless it is a monograde all oils use viscosity modifiers. It's the older oils with friction modifiers (Castrol GTX was one) which need to be avoided. I don't know that anyone uses this technology anymore...


    Trevor G
  10. I ran two thumpers on Catrol GTX2 and got 35,000km or so between upper cylinder rebuilds. Mostly commuting, but occasional long road trips and trails. Both had wet clutches. Never had a problem with friction modifiers. Completely warming up an engine before using is just as important as avoiding the cheapest possible oil.
  11. Original GTX did not have modifiers. It was recommened as refill by Kawasaki in their owner's handbooks. I have run it in bike engines with no ill effect. I don't use it anymroe because it's too inconsistent in being stocked.
    GTX 2 and 3 are the evil ones.
    Original GTX (no numbers) is an excellent older engine oil, with an SG rating, meaning lots of anti wear/anti scuff additives, which have been phased out to save catalytic convertors.
    The original GTX is hard to find now, so any 20w50 engine oil, with a SE-SH rating will be good for your bike. SJ is when additives started disappearing. Most of the 10w-anything automotive oils have friciton modifiers. The diesel 10w-whatevers are great, but use only big name ones.

    Regards, Andrew.
  12. Try SuperCheap Auto, that's were I normally get oil - you should be able to get 5 liters of quality oil that will suit your bike for around $30.

    Remember, it's not about the brand of oil. It's about the specifications - choose any brand as long as it's API (or similar) specification is equal to or better than what the producer of the bike recommends. With an '84 model that should be easy.
  13. Valvoline engine armour 20w-40w works well for me in the

    '88 fzr1000 and it's the recommended oil if you search the

    Valvoline web site.

    about $30 for 5 litres at Autobarn, haven't ever seen it in stock at