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Goldfren Brake Pads, experiences please.

Discussion in 'Technical and Troubleshooting Torque' at netrider.net.au started by robsalvv, Feb 28, 2008.

  1. Uncertain whether this should be in technical, product review, or maintenance... :-k ...so my guess was technical as this could be technical talk... please move if required :)

    Anyhow, I've scored myself Goldfren HH rated brake pads, at a price too good to refuse (<<<< less than equivalent Ferodo or EBC). They are the "AD" model carbon / metal sintered pads. http://www.goldfren.cz/material-moto-ad.htm

    Opinion seems to be mixed on the various forums I've perused regarding these types of pads. One in particular was scathing, but I think he didn't bed the pads down properly... and as the brake pad article that's stickied says - mess this step up and you might as well throw the pads out.

    I will be able to add to my own views and experience in the near future (they have to be better than my current Metalgear standard OEM replacement pads... which are fine but not show stopping) (pardon the pun).... but in the mean time, if you've clicked in because you have Goldfren pads, I'd really appreciate you leaving your experience / opinion / thoughts etc about them.

    According to the goldfren website, they reccommend the AD pads up to 750cc which is a really odd way to spec brake pads... so it's got me thinking.

    Anyhow, what say you about Goldfren?


  2. Stay away from brake pads, they make you go slow.
  3. From personal experience, they aren't as good when you spill fork oil on them! :evil:
  4. Depends what you want out of them. the truth is the cheaper the pad, the softer they are, the harder they brake.

    some mobs will try to convince you their performance pads (read expensive) are both good wearing and hard braking, but it's bollucks.
  5. The better pads are the cheaper pads? :?

    The soft compound ones I use are more expensive, and only last 4 or 5 hours. :cry: Stop nicely though.
  6. The fronts are very predicatable, work okay, and haul me up pretty quickly. The rears work well too, however are extremely noisy. the runout is in spec, the calipers are clean, nuts tight, there are no excessive grooves in the disc, have coated the back twice (on two seperate occasions) with stop-squeal, have re-roughed the surface with 80-grade sandpaper , yet they still makes as much noise as bus brakes when pulling up at the lights.... :-k. Less when they are at temperature, but are still very audible regardless.

  7. Actually, there are pads out there that give impressive stopping power as well as long life.

    Everyone is different and the properties of a pad the one person likes may not feature as high on another persons list of requirements.

    Road based pads tend to work best at lower temperatures as they have to cope with long distances with no braking at all but be able to give maximum friction should an emergency arrive.
    Some companies offer a race compound derivative of these pads. Usually in the form of a softer material which gives increased friction but at the expense of ware rate.
    Using road based pads on a track or road, where you constantly hammer the brakes, raises the temperature of the pad and disk and if this temperature goes beyond what the pad can handle, you get brake fade.

    A true race compound pad works better at higher temperatures. The down side is that it may need a few brake applications to get it into it's working temperature zone. So true race compound pads may feel a little wooden for the first couple of corners. But hey, that wht we have warm up laps and the warm up lap is enough to 'warm up' these types of pads.

    The pads I use are not a soft material version of a road pad. Therefore they do not wear quicker than other makes. In fact I'm getting approx double the life out of these compared to what I used before. There are also other benefits but thats not the point of this discussion.

    The only way your really going to know if a pad works for you is to try it. What works for one, may not be to your liking.

    In my experience though, you can shortcut some of the bull, and narrow your search by selecting a product which was designed for your intended purpose.
    Unless of course, you want to reinvent the wheel (and there's nothing wrong with that either).
  8. Well, I finally replaced my metal gear pads and popped in the Goldfren's.

    Frankly, they suck when cold. I can't even get the bike to stoppies at the end of an Ebrake on cold pads... but once they're warmed up they seem pretty good - I'd say they are better than the OEM, but not streets ahead.

    Even when warm the initial bite isn't huge, which I guess you'd work around with braking style... I had some need to wipe off speed quickly on the weekend and they helped do that well enough.

    They seemed to take an inordinate amount of time to bed down, not sure what that was about.

    They make a pleasant shishing noise when you're on the brakes - the sintered metal Ferodo's on the tracky make a whirring almost light grinding noise in comparison.

    Dunno if these obs are at all helpful... but anywayz, they're my obs.

  9. The shishing noise is the most important bit.
  10. I like the shishing noise too :wink:
  11. :LOL: Shishing is wear it's at. :)

    (yes, that was a deliberate use of wear)
  12. I've used Goldfren's in the past, road and track, and never had a problem with them. Braking style though is important, and what one guys likes may well be what another guy hates.

    I tend to lightly trail brake a fair bit, and gradually increase/decrease my braking pressure as required as smoothly as possible. As such I don't like pads with a lot of initial bite, and if they take a bit to warm up I don't really notice it 'cos I'll have been trailing for a short time before really ramping up the pressure. That's just my style though.

    People who like to follow the Keith Code style of getting all the braking done before entering a corner ala light-switch mode will tend to appreciate a high initial bite and brakes that work well from cold.

    It's the age old thing. Horses for courses. All you can do is try out the pads and see if you like how they work for your style of brake application.