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Gixxer 600 Suspension setup

Discussion in 'Technical and Troubleshooting Torque' started by Adrian Lewer, Jul 21, 2014.

  1. Hy everyone. I have decided I am going to do my suspension setup myself after having problems with what I believe to be to hard a setup. I have read various articles including these 2 and have decided I think I can give it a go.

    http://www.gostar-racing.com/club/motorcycle_suspension_set-up.htm#SET UP BIKE TO YOUR WEIGHT


    I have the rear all sussed out and can understand the instructions but am having a little trouble following the front setup. My bike is a 2013 Gixxer 600 with SHOWA front forks. on the top there is TEN and COM, Am I right in saying that COM is the compression and TEN is the rebound ?

    Also I can't find the Preload. Is it the screw at the bottom of the forks ? If so is in harder and out softer ? and one would presume you just move both together the same amount.

    If anyone has any advise please swing it my way.


    Attached Files:

  2. #2 danny_tb, Jul 21, 2014
    Last edited by a moderator: Jul 31, 2014
    As they say... "If all else fails, read the instructions!"

    Your owners manual should tell you where the preload adjustment is, and how to set it. For late model upside down forks with long top-out springs, the sag setting needs to be calculated differently to the old "right way up" forks with short top-out springs, so without the owners manual, you're likely to get it wrong.

    TEN = tension = rebound
    COM = compression

    Record your baseline settings (count the number of turns or clicks to fully hard/fully soft, and NEVER try to "tighten" the adjusting screws unless you want to do hundreds of dollars of damage).

    Oh, and don't get tempted to open up the forks and do your own revalving with a "do it yourself" kit: you're very likely to get something wrong and cause yourself to crash.
  3. Thanks danny, yep definitely will never open up the forks, that's defiantly a job for someone who knows what they are doing. My manual does not have the required info. I will however double check that tonight. I have tries to get some documentation on the SHOWA forks but can't find any.
  4. The other thing about companies who send out kits for owner fitment: they don't always get the tuning right... Don't ask how I found out about this...
  5. LOL, I won't I think I see where that was going. Ok. Looked at the manual, found out what all the adjustments are on the bike, but that's it, nothing on how to adjust, only what the stock settings are. I now have enough to go on with doing it myself. Keep your eyes on this space, coming soon, how to destroy a gixxer in under 60 seconds !!!
  6. So are you trying to just set the sag/preload or are you going to play with the dampening?

    The one thing I've learnt from years of twiddling the knobs on road bikes and now racing is that this business about setting the front sag is rubbish. I do it by the book and get the thing in the ballpark (say 35mm on the front) and the thing is too stiff ends up working too high in the stroke.

    The rear on the other hand works well.

    Have you ever seen people put cable ties on their forks to measure the available travel? Most people tend to go by this method but you obviously can't use both methods. Run a cable tie and monitor your travel. Aim for say 20-25mm from the bottom out point for the road. Just remove preload to use more travel.

    Only my opinion but I've spent years trying to set the front sag by the book and was actually told by my suspension guy to go by travel
  7. I love these suspension threads. What happened to the other guy?
  8. Hi UDLOSE, I have just been watching some vids today on exactly that. I am going to set the front and rear to 30mm but also set a zip tie on the front and see what it does. I adjusted the rear today to about 30mm of sag. Awesome result but now I think I am out riding the front as she now wants to push through the turns, i.e. If I go through a left hand turn the bike wants to push straight. This will obviously be the dampening. I am just trying to get sag right first, but like the idea of the zip tie trick.
  9. Someone has to say it.... Perhaps you're not pushing the front hard enough under braking :eek:
    • Like Like x 1
  10. Lol I'm glad u finally got the rear sorted....
    Niether myself or @Adrian Lewer@Adrian Lewer are much over 70kg & on riding his bike the rear was so 'stiff' the back wheel wanted to fly out on any corner that had any rough edge or similar.
  11. Someone has to say it... Perhaps he needs to set the sag correctly and alter the position of the forks in the triples. Pushing the forks down through the triples too much will increase the tendency to run wide. Setting the sag too low will counteract it, but at the expense of not having enough suspension travel for larger mid-corner bumps. OTOH, it could be caused by a number of other things.
  12. #12 Adrian Lewer, Jul 24, 2014
    Last edited by a moderator: Jul 31, 2014
    Setting the sag for 30 on rear and 35 on front tonight and will see how that looks. Will also look at finding full travel on forks and setting zip ties.

    Forgot to mention when Jeremy and I looked at the rear rider sag, from factory it was at 9mm for my body weight.
  13. #13 RRdevil, Jul 24, 2014
    Last edited by a moderator: Jul 31, 2014
    Be a bit firm yeah?

    I was saying it in jest
    • Like Like x 1
  14. Oh... OK... My social ineptness strikes again... ;)
    • Like Like x 1
  15. Yep was definitely firm. about 1 hour of riding was like 20 years on the inside !!!

    I am having someone look at the suspension next week, Justin from belmont. His details where given to me by a couple of guys outside of peter stevens in Geelong. They said he was " THE MAN " in the Geelong area when it comes to suspension.

    I am 99% sure I can do it, everything I have been reading has fallen into place now, but I suppose it would not hurt for someone who knows what they are doing look at it.
  16. OK, The suspension got the better of me today, I adjusted the rider sag. What I found interesting was the forks, I had what appeared to be 30mm of rider sag. after measuring the sag on the forks I backed out the preload and had a look. I ended up with something ridiculous like 20mm. I kept screwing in the pre load until I got to 30mm. What was interesting was the fact that after that the rider sag never changed, even if I kept screwing in the screw, but the forks became harder, but kept the rider sag at no more than 30mm. So I have tuned the forks up until they have just reached the 30mm mark, now when I brake the front dips slightly (not much) but before it never budged.

    I then set the rear to 30mm as well and, re checked the cold tyre pressure's, then went for a ride (along with the stock compression and rebound settings)

    The bike was transformed in the front end. Much better I could feel the bike contouring to the road instead of bouncing over it. I think the bike's preloads need to go up to 35mm on the back and front, so that will be a job for next week when I am back home.

    I did find however the front wants to keep leaning into the turns while the back follows the line it should, before I adjusted the preload on the front it was the opposite way around, you has to fight to keep the turn you wanted as she wanted to run wide. I dare say thats a dampening issue and I will tinker with these settings once I am happy with the sag and have done some more reading.

  17. #17 RRdevil, Jul 26, 2014
    Last edited by a moderator: Jul 31, 2014
  18. Thanks RRdevil, On my forks the preload was set at 6 & 1/4 turns in from fully out. I am now at only 2 in from fully out (Unloaded), From what I can gather the fork springs are to "Heavy" for me and I would need softer springs to utilise them properly ? is that correct ? Kind of like me and the rear shock spring, I have nearly backed off all the way just to make 30mm of rider sag. I should get a softer spring and tension it up to the middle and get my 30mm - 35mm of rider sag to utilise the rear spring properly.

    Does this sound like I have read the document right or am I still not getting it ?
  19. How much thread is left on the preload nut on the rear shock?

    Also how many turns on the front preload until it is at maximum preload?
  20. The bike is brand new, and the preload and all other screws are in the positions as per the manual, As far as I can see the bike would have suited someone in the 90 - 100 KG range, But not me, I am 75Kg in full gear. My CBR 125 never had any problems and felt " locked in " around corners, even in the wet with those skinny tyres, but the Gixxer is just not cutting it at the moment, although there was a big improvement with the new preload settings this afternoon.

    I am going to bump the preload up to 35 front and back and see what that does, tomorrow after work.