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Gentle solvent or other means of removing paint?

Discussion in 'Bling and Appearance' at netrider.net.au started by davesta, Jul 17, 2006.

  1. Hey all, one of the previous 143 owners of my bike at some stage decided to paint over the decals with yuk looking red paint. I have no idea why, better visibilty perhaps, as the factory stripes are a charcoal colour. Anyway i'm trying to remove the paint and so far am having to scrape it off with my fingernails, but it is gonna take hours. Is there a gentle solvent that will help remove the paint (considering the decals underneath are in good condition and i want to keep them that way). Or failing that does anyone have any ideas how i can loosen up the paint? Thanx heaps :cool:


     
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  2. If your idea is to only remove a single top layer and not damage what's underneath, I'd keep going with the fingernails :)

    It's easier with a stanley blade or a craft knife though.
    Some hottish water might also help if the paint your removing is lower quality than what's underneath.

    I had to get the paint of a bunch of panels on my bike before repainting - I used a mouse-sander with 800 and 1200 grit sandpaper. You could probably get it done faster with coarser grit.
    Polish with 1600 grit.

    Problem is your decals will be more vulnerable to any solvent you use than the paint will be. Craft knife/fingernail unfortunately is what I'd use.
     
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  3. If its coming of with your fingernails you may be able to get it of with product i saw used to remove overspray, not sure what it was called but it looked like a large pensil eraser about the size of a bar of soap.

    Maybe there is a spraypainter out there that can tell you what it's called.
     
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  4. my stepbro works as a panelbeater so i'll have to ask him about the pencil eraser type thing. Yeah i was thinking i would probably have to keep going, as anything strong enough to kill the paint would kill the decal as well. The hot water might help..
     
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  5. Sounds a lot like the "clay bar" produced by Meguiars which you can often get at auto stores.
    http://www.meguiars.com/?auto-detailing-clay/Quik-Clay-Detailing-System
     
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  6. Ok further question, on the lower part of the fairing its been painted red straight over the black plastic, so there is no decal to worry about preserving. What would be a solvent strong enough to kill the paint without melting the plastic the fairing is made from (abs?). I was thinking paint thinners and will have to test on an inconspicuous place first, just thought i'd run it by you guys too see if there was anything else. Thanx
     
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  7. How well thinners work is going to depend on what sort of paint was used. Really the only things safe to use on ABS resin I can think of would be metho or mineral turps - and there's not that many paints that can be removed using those once cured (though if it was a really dodgy repsray you might be lucky). Anything more aggresive like acetone, or other organic solvents will dissolve ABS resin quite readily. Sanding back is probably going to be your best option.
     
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  8. The paint was dodgily applied, no primer or anything so its not too bad. I have tried turps and petrol and they make the rag go red but dont really do much else. Sanding is looking like the only option, i'm just wondering how easily the bare surface will come back up to glossy black once the red is sanded off. I don't really want to paint any more then i have to (just doing the tank is gonna be enough for me)
     
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  9. I have used Eucalyptus oil and found its rather good at getting a lot of stuff off, and or heating up the area with a hair dryer before hand.. although i have only been working on plastic tanks etc..
     
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  10. Plastic doesn't come up too bad after sanding. What you'll need to do is work down the various grades of wet sandpaper, to something very fine (ie 1800 grit) - then switch over to one of the automotive polishes/waxes that contain a mild cutting compound to bring it up to a shine. Polished plastic generally won't look quite as good as a properly painted surface - but it looks a lot better than a poorly painted one.
     
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  11. Oh yes eucalyptus oil is about the only thing i havent tried yet, will have to give it a go, tho i'm not holding much hope. I think sanding will be the way to go, will let you know how it goes...
     
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  12. Use a clay bar, it will take time and effort, but the end result will be better than anything else.

    Clay bars are re-usable as well, so buy it and use it over and over, well worth the $25 bux or so.

    You have to lubricate as well, use a quik detailer and youll be set.
     
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  13. Found the solution: brake fluid. Sounds a bit strange, but i tested it on an inconspicuous piece and no damage occured so i put a coat over the red paint and heated it for 1 or 2 mins. The paint then went all like melted crayons and i could sort of roll it off using my fingers. Gave it a wash and polished up the abs, beautiful. Only part left to do is the rear panels near the taillight, not sure if i'll be able to use brake fluid on them, cos they've got a clear coat over the factory decals (and red paint over part of the clear coat). As before i'll test in an inconspicuous place and see how i go.
     
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  14. Brake fluid can rot the body work, over time.

    Hot Xylene or Toulene will remove pretty much ANYTHING off ANY surface.

    Kinda dangerous to work with, though.
     
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  15. Yeah i figured couldnt be nice stuff so i wore gloves and didnt breathe anything in. I made sure i washed it reaaally well afterwards so hopefully should be ok, seems good -very shiny finish
     
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  16. i suggest the new grease they have out..........















    ELBOW GREASE!!
    :LOL: :LOL:
    seriously, chemicals+tedious work=bad
     
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