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Gearing down what is best procedure

Discussion in 'New Riders and Riding Tips' started by driekus, Sep 2, 2004.

  1. I know this is probably a stupid question but which method of gearing down is better in the long term. For example when you come to set of lights
    1.)Gearing down gear by gear fully engaging each gear and travelling a small amount
    2.)Gearing all down at once without engaging any gears
    3.)Some modification

  2. both are ok , it all depends on what you want to do
    if you are just slowing at the lights , dropping one or two at a time are ok , but if your pulling up quickly you might have to go right through them

    my prefered option is , drop a cog at a time , small rev in between as you dont know whats going to happen ie the traffic might take off and your still searching for a gear , if you are all ready in a gear appropriate to the motion you are travelling at then you can just acelarate away .
  3. Not stupid at all...
    This can vary on speed and time factors.
    Firstly MOST bikes wont let you change from 6th to 1st without engaging at least one of the gears on the way through.. that should sort out that part of the question.

    Like in a manual car the engine can be used as an effective brake in slowing the vehicle down. I rarely engage every gear in the way from 6th to 1st but would often do 6, 4, 3, 2 and 1 just before stopping but this is for when Im riding like a granny, just slow and steady. If Im riding faster and need to stop more quickly for lights then 6, 4, and then 2,
    If I have to emergency stop then forget the gears and worry about stopping, then worry about the gears and most likely restarting the engine.
  4. Can I also put in a suggestion that if you are going to use any significant amounts of engine braking to also lightly press the rear brake (just enough to activate the brake light) - just to let the person behind you know that you are actually slowing.
    • Agree Agree x 1
  5. Going down gear by gear can get tiring by the 4th set of lights for me. Great thing about bike g’boxes is that you can go from top to first etc pretty straight forwardly.
    Bike gearboxes can be subbourn shifting at a standstill though, as the cogs need movement to enage effectively (bike gearboxes are direct to the final drive/rear wheel, pulling in the clutch isolates the g’box from the engine).

    Some 250cc bikes have a ‘postive’ gear selection thingy, that positively does not let you change the way you want sometimes.
    • Informative Informative x 1
  6. Make sure you are in the right (correct) gear when you have stopped. doesn't really matter how you get there. In an emergency braking situation, train yourself to tap down gears as your stopping, your left foot's not doing anything else!
    I nearly got rear ended by a guy who wasn't concentrating on what was in front of him. I was trained to be in the right gear for each road speed (1st when stopped obviously) and monitor your mirrors. I saw him coming, and, as he went into a four wheel lock up when he realised I was stopped at the light in front of him, I snuck round the corner out of his way. He ended up 10 metres into the intersection!
  7. I always pull the front brake on (even if its just to engage the brake light) and not the rear.
  8. If I don't go down through each gear individually Bond often won't let me into 1st gear when I've stopped!
  9. Some 250cc bikes have a ‘postive’ gear selection thingy, that positively does not let you change the way you want sometimes.[/quote]

    I think my VTR250 is like that I had all sorts of problems changing into neutral when I start the bike (I park in 1st gear). I found I had to engage the gears first and then it let me change.
  10. I guess it is really whichever is most comfortable for you.
  11. A quick "blip" whilst changing will make for a smoother gear change as well.

    Clutch in, quick twist of the throttle, change down a gear while engine revs are still high, clutch out.

    Normally when you change down a gear your engine revs go from low to high as the gear ratio changes. This isn't great for your bike and also throws your balance out a bit. By "blipping" you get your engine back up to speed before the gear change is completed, meaning there's not such a noticable jolt when you release the clutch and the bike is more stable.

    I found it good to practice this at night at the local shopping centre. Find somewhere straight, get up to top gear and then change down, blipping each time. You don't have to hoon, just practice smooting out your gear changes.

    It will soon become second nature.
  12. On the NSR, just stomp on the gears to change down midcorner and accelerate out, gotta keep the speed up or you'll stall :)

    seriously though, blipping helps smooth the change and can even give you better control if you suddenly find yourself having to accelerate due to some nuff-nuff aiming for you.
  13. Now try this, go from 6th to 1st while holding in the clutch and just before you come to a complete standstill let the clutch out slightly.
    It will then engage 1st gear and you will be ready to go when the lights go green.
    If you come to a complete stop without letting the clutch out slightly then you will have trouble getting the gears to engage.

  14. You must be psyhcic , that was another point of curiosity the jolt changing gear and yes it does occasionally through me off balance. I also get the jolt going up gears which is probably evident of my lack of experience changing gears. Im still getting used to the bike trying not to rev it too much even though the dealer said as long as you dont redline it will be ok. Im sticking to 7000RPM max (redline about 13000RPM) till I hit 500km and then slowly increasing revs. The clutch and gears are also a little stiff (200km on clock) so parts are due to the age of bike and others due to me. The problem is so much to practise and so little time, learning to brake in the wet safely I can say has been my latest accomplishment. Now to advance all these skills, advanced rider courses, etc. It is such a learning curve and good in a way. Also noticed my car driving has improved a bit as well.

  15. driekus, when running in a new bike these days there's no need to baby them. In fact, most times, babying them will actually prevent you from getting peak power. The idea is to wear in all the parts of the engine and smooth off the gears etc to fit snugly.
    As was advised by the Guys at Honda tech sup[port b4 i boughtthe 600, run it hard, all the way to redline, but make sure you go through all the gears and wear them in. The engines these days are pretty much bulletproof.
  16. Shame the fairings and the subframes dont live after hitting the back of commodores :p
  17. The subframe survived, cause it was already stuffed :p
  18. Cheers Ill start edging it up close to the redline as of this arvo. Its got 250km on clock so engine can handle the revs methinks just a little bit nervous taking it to redline (12000RPM). What is the general rev region ideal to cruise at, at the moment ive been cruising 6000 to 7000RPM where a good chunk of the power is just in case I need it to avoid a cage.

  19. if it redlines @ 12000rpm, then clearly your cruising region should be around 12000rpm. It just depends on how much noise and fuel consumption you want to put up with :p
  20. *viewsexpressedarepersonalandmaynotrepresenttheviewsofmanagement.