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Gear Shifting

Discussion in 'New Riders and Riding Tips' started by 1nf3rn0, Aug 18, 2008.

  1. Hi all,

    I'm new to riding and have a newby questing, at how many RPMs should I be up shifting and down shifting? I'm have a Honda CBR125 if this helps.

  2. Up - 5k and above
    Down -2k and below

    Rough estimates, but with time and practice, you'll know when to shift. A good newbie test for too low is when you take off and the bike shudders, you should shift down a gear :oops:
  3. That's out for a CBR125R. They don't have anything under 3 kay. Try;

    Up - 5 kay and above
    Down - 3.5 kay and below
  4. Learnt something new today. I did sit on a CBR125 for a laugh, looked like a kids bike with me on it. Didn't take notice of the dials. :wink:
  5. Been riding since saturday, I generally shift up around 10-11k if I am booting it (redline is 14k) and shift down whenever there is a corner aproaching :p

    Actually to be honest I have no idea, I just play it by feel and sound like I do when driving. I generally cruise around in 6th though. (I think my bike has 6 gears.....maybe its only 5...hmm)
  6. if you downshift at high rpms, you are in for a nasty surprise :)
  7. I ride my brothers CBR125 somewhat often when i get a bit bored, i noticed that it only takes a second from take off to red line it on first gear, so try to shift mid way through first's rev range in order to avoid red lining.

    As for down shifting, even though it's a small bike make sure you get into the habit of blipping on downshifts so you're all good when you get a bigger bike.
  8. Can you explain this blipping on downshifting? I think I know what you're talking about, and I think I know what it is and why one does it, but I just want to make sure...
  9. just shift fast enough so the dogs dont stop spinning, hit the clutch and down shift, your revs drop anyway when you pull in the clutch and release the throttle, its the speed you should worry about, dont downshift too low or double downshift when your at a fast speed
  10. Tom,

    "just shift fast enough so the dogs dont stop spinning," :? :-s

    This is fundamentally wrong info.

    The basic motorcycle gearbox is designed so that the dogs are splined to the main shafts and slide forwards or backwards to engage disengage a gear. They do not free spin. if the shaft rotates, so does the dog gear.

    I think what you were trying to say is that the longer you hold the clutch in when rolled off, the lower the revs will drop... and the more gently you'll have to let the clutch out so that the clutch can gradually match the revs.
  11. Can anyone here make sense of what Tom said? I can't.

    Regarding blipping: Just hit 'Search' above and type in 'blipping'.
    for example.

    Essentially, if you ride at a constant speed and change up gears, the engine's speed gets lower and lower. We close the throttle when we change gears anyway, and so the engine naturally slows down and most of the time the engine speed ends up roughly where it needs to be when we release the clutch. Well. Generally speaking.

    If you ride at constant speed and change down gears, however, the engine has to increase its speed (plus it's going to lose speed anyway when the clutch is pulled in). So... engine speed has to increase!

    This can happen two ways:
    (1) we release the clutch and the rear wheel, chain, gearbox, clutch try to force the engine up to speed. This can often cause a 'compression lockup', causing the back wheel to skid for a second. It's a jerky, mechanically-abusive downshift which can upset the bike.
    (2) we briefly 'blip' the throttle to raise engine revs to the correct speed just before we release the clutch. Nice smooth downshift if performed correctly.

    That's blipping, in a nutshell.
  12. I am drunk and don't know how a gearbox works???
  13. Noooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

    :cry: :cry: :cry: :cry: :cry: :cry: :cry: :cry:
  14. Please not this sh!t again :LOL:
  15. do all bikes need to be blipped? I've never done it (not consciously) on a 13hp 225, and I've not really noticed any problems, but I did notice that when I rode a 650, changing gears (both up and down) was very jerky for me. Obviously there's all sorts of factors involved here, but should I be doing it as a habit on every bike I ride ?
  16. Indeed!

    2WA, you'll note I didn't go into Bonox level detail.

    Just the simple facts which should be enough to stop the discussion relatively dead.

    Kinch, short answer is no. If you want to make a quick down shift change (as opposed to a drawn out one letting clutch out slowly and consciously matching revs with the throttle), it's highly recommended.
  17. Technically/idealistically speaking, with every manual-transmission vehicle you ever operate you should be matching revs by blipping the throttle (or similar rev-matching technique), rather than dragging the engine back up to speed using the clutch alone.
  18. Famous last words rob :wink:
  19. hmmm... seems I have a new technique I need to learn :)

    Oh.. probably a stupid question, but does this technique apply when upshifting too? I searched all the blipping threads and they only mentioned it on the downshift, never the upshift...
  20. Your revs drop automatically when you put in the clutch. Depending on your clutch speed and what gears you are in, it should naturally be pretty close, unless you're shifting too early. So no, you don't need to worry about trying to rev match when upshifting, it just slows down your gear changes. The reason you blip throttles is to make it easier on the gearbox/drivetrain/engine, to prevent compression lock, and keep the bike/car operating smoothly, there is no reason to do it for upshifting as none of those problems are present when going up gears.