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Gear Shifting - what speeds for what gear?

Discussion in 'New Riders and Riding Tips' at netrider.net.au started by hadsom, Jan 9, 2007.

  1. Hi All,

    this is my first posting of a new topic so bear with me. I did a bit of a search but couldn't find any existing topics. If there are some that you know about please send them my way.

    OK, my query is this:

    When shifting gears what would be the maximum speed that I shouldn't go over per gear?



    The scenario:- tootling along on my 06 GPX250R sitting on about 100km/h. I come to a fairly steep hill and start to lose speed. So need to downshift.

    How many gears can I go down to try and keep my speed up and not slow down the traffic behind me?

    Can I expect my bike to be able to do 100km/h in say 3rd or 4th?

    Perhaps it is the way I am riding? Should I have prepared for the hill in advance by dropping a gear first and giving it a bit of throttle at the base of the hill?

    Tips / guidance from the gurus and great sages of Netrider would be most humbly appreciated!

    Cheers,

    Hayden
     
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  2. Hole in one Hadsom, 1 point to you. :grin:

    Also its not about the speed your doing but the revs you want to keep up, if your approaching a hill at say 80km/h you know your going to lose speed, so prepare for the loss of revs and change down the gears as you need to, to keep revs up.

    As you ride more you will become familiar with your own bike and its capabilities.

    Good luck with it all, and welcome to Netrider
     
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  3. Gpx 250 should be able to pull 80km/h out of 2nd, the 06 ZZR can.
    For the whole loosing speed thing, speed up at the bottom of the hill and drop one gear half way up, i think for steepish hills ride it around 5-7 grand, and you should go straight up them without any problems.
     
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  4. Thanks for these responses guys, great advice. I found I had been leaving the gear change until well into the hill. I had been changing gear and not getting a lot of response in terms of maintaining speed so wasn't sure if I should just keep dropping down through the gears until I started to regain some speed.

    Cheers again!
     
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  5. At 5 thousand revs your bike will start to chug.
    At 12 thousand revs it will be pushing a little harder than you will be wanting to hold it and be just past the power peak.
    at 7 - 8 you will get performance without making it squeel

    So if you want to power up a hill with a little spare in the kick you would want to be around the 7 - 8 thousand rev mark, once you get over 9 or 10 you will be at your peak performance.

    I generaly cruse around at 6k on the flat but push the revs up a little when I am on inclines.

    The reality is that the inline twin is prety forgiving and that is why it is a great learner bike.
     
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  6. +1. That's the way I do it.
     
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  7. Hansom, since you're not sure about this on hills let me just point out that its also necessary for corners. You don't want to be in a corner at 3000-5000 revvs as when it comes to accelerate out you won't have power. You'll want to be 6000ish just before you're about to accelerate. Not only can you get out faster, but the extra revvs will pull you up straighter when coming out and stop you from falling over at slow speed :)
     
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  8. ^^^ also you should have your gear, revs, speed selected BEFORE you begin the corner.
     
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  9. In Adition to phizog's statments regarding rev range and pulling out of corners. The Kwaka inline twin (GPX & ZZR) has a bit of a hollow spot in the power at about 4.5k revs. if your bike is poorly tuned it will be very pronounced, if it is running well you can prety much ignore it.

    But if it is apparent and you have dropped that low in the range then as you pass 4.5K instead of getting more power it all just fades a little. (I found it a fiew times doing a right around a roundabout) so what happens? your bike just decides it wants to lie down because there is no power to pull it out of the corner. How to cover it? keep the revs up, if this fails then you have to be ready to flick the bars in to kick the bike up, (And sometimes put out a boot (I advise kicking the ground as apposed to putting the whole boot down because you are less likely to wrench your groin))

    The better solution than all of this is keep your bike well tuned.
     
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  10. Sorta on this note, what is the maximum speed in each gear for the GPX250?
     
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  11. That depends on the sprocket ratio ;).
     
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  12. Interesting question, I'll have a guess but I'm not totally sure as when its screaming I feel like I'm a father bitchslapping his kid so I shift up lol.

    1st gear I only know because I thought I was in second and couldn't figure out why it wouldn't go faster. I'd say about 45, maybe 50.

    2nd is supposed to do 80ish, mine probably only does 60-70 as it sounds too insane above that.

    3rd... hmm 100?
    .
    .
    .
    6th 170

    But the noise doing any of those is pretty intense, not to mention terrible for the engine :)

    What I stick to for normal riding (not accelerating) is
    1st - 20-30kmh
    2nd - 30-50
    3rd - 50-60
    4th - 60-70
    5th - 70-80
    6th - 80+
     
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  14. phizog Is right with the whole speed thing unless your up for giving you engine a hard time/shorttened life span.
     
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  15. Factory default for a 2005 model.

    And phizog, the GPX250 only has 5 gears. :p
     
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  16. EDIT: Numbers all wrong. Can't be bothered recalculating. :p
     
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  17. Really the more important question is where is the optimum gearchange point for performance and for efficiency (depending on what floats your boat) now it just so happens that these numbers have all been graphed and posted here before (I'll play with search and see if i get lucky)
     
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  18. Gpx...5 gears......since when? mine had 6.
     
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  19. Hmm, just checked the manual, and it does say 6. :LOL:

    :oops:
     
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  20. Haha!

    How fair enough to think you only have 5 gears, since when I'm in 6th I'm always searching for a 7th. Silly 250s :LOL:
     
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