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Gear shift setup question

Discussion in 'General Motorcycling Discussion' at netrider.net.au started by SAMB, Aug 13, 2011.

  1. I just got my bike back from Charlie the Triumph Guru after bringing it to him for a service for the first time. Everything that was said about him is true. My bike is now running better than ever and overall I'm thrilled with his service however he adjusted my gear shift and now I have to lift my foot off the peg in order to downshift. I brought it back to him and he told me that this is the optimal setup and that I'll get used to it. It does shift a lot smoother but I'm finding it a bit tough to downshift with boots on.

    How do you have yours setup? Do you have to lift your foot off the peg to downshift?


  2. gear lever position is a personal thing and whats optimal for you would be shyte for me.
  3. The usual setup is level with the bottom of your boot in its usual posi,pull it off its splin and move it to suit YOU
  4. #4 DuaneDibbley, Aug 13, 2011
    Last edited by a moderator: Jul 13, 2015
  5. This is Charlie being a tosser.

    Change it so it's right for YOU !

    It's easy to do. From memory loosen two lock nuts on the rod, then turn the rod itself.


    Repeat until correct.
    • Like Like x 1
  6. I adjusted mine just the other day on the cb400, makes a big difference.
  7. so much for being a 'guru'! lol.
    ALL controls should be set to the riders preference.
    a 'proper' mechanic would go through this with you on the bike.

    set your foot AND hand controls to 'you'.
  8. I'm with Charlie.
    I think. Do you really have to lift off ?? Or have you tried slipping the foot forward a bit.
    And are the boots new ? Or are you new to riding boots, sorry don't know.
    It does take a bit to get use to riding in boots as opposed to runners or just working boots.
    Also roadies are different to dirt bikes as they are set up through a linkage system and not strait off the spline. So they are set up a certain way and altering it stresses it.
    I would persist for a few days to a week to you see if you acclimatize to it. If it still feels geeky then go back and talk to him.
  9. Altering the linkage wont stress it.
  10. They are made adjustable for a reason.
  11. One thing to get right is to have all the lever parts set at 90 degrees to the link rods when your foot is set right,thats the most efficient angle to get a nice short action.I had to cut a bit off the link rod to achieve this as the threaded bush bit was bottomed out on the thread.Thats on a roady with rear sets,my new Tech 6 Alpine Star off road boots needed the gear lever to move up 1 spline just to get the boot under the lever.Sort all this out before your holding up 15 blokes on a ride while you look for a 5mm alan key.
  12. Cheeses! It doesn't matter what he thinks is right. You position it where it needs be, FOR YOU!. I warn the shop every time my bike goes in, NOT to adjust any of the controls.

    Ie. I like my front brake to work close in to the bar, so when I am trailing it, I'm not having to stretch my figures out. This meant that there was a lot of slack in the lever. (yes yes, don't worry...I could still easily lock up the front wheel before the lever touched grip)
    One day I picked my thou up from the dealer, and an observant fellow saw the slack and adjusted it out.

    I took off home, and peeled off the monash, saw the lights were green at the coming intersection, so gave it a handful to make the turn on the green. Sorted! nup!
    I left my braking till late, down changed a few gears, and hit the front brakes, to peel into my rh turn. And bloody nearly went down because I didn't know the lever had been fiddled with, and got WAY too much front brake, nearly tossing myself off the bike and into bridge concrete!

    Now...even though I ask them not to, I still check before I ride off.

    Forget what he thinks is the optimal position. It doesn't matter if it stuffs you up.
    (assuming of course, that your position isn't some silly-asked spot that is just plain wrong)
  13. I set mine so that I can comfortably fit my foot under it, and I can up-shift without lifting my foot. That's complicated slightly by the fact that I have a limited range of movement in that ankle due to an accident. I can slide my foot sideways under it at normal position without difficulty, but then make the up-shift simply by raising my toes - no lifting the leg. Down-shifting - I generally lift my foot to get it on top of the lever anyway, but then don't need to lift it again. I haven't adjusted it from stock on the 14. I was set just right on the showroom floor. I do sometimes lift my foot an inch or two off the peg and go tap-tap-tap down. I don't mind lifting my leg to get in down-shift mode. I don't like having to lift my whole leg on every up-shift.

    [MENTION=16699]raven[/MENTION] - I've learned the hard way. Always check at least the basics after anybody has worked on your bike. That includes tyre pressures. That doesn't mean ask the nice man what he did - it means check it yourself.

    Pretty much everything on my new ZX14 was set right from the shop, but the tyres were 10 psi under-inflated. I nearly went straight on at several of the first corners.

    My 1980 GSX11 - the flagship model at the time - came with no air pressure assist in the front forks, one fork spring preload set to max, one to min. One fork damping adj max and one min. The rear shocks had one max preload and one min, and the damping the same. Of course, the soft spring got all the damping and the hard one got none, front and back. The tyres were under inflated, front was (?) about 28, rear was 22 psi. The oil was over-full. The wheel alignment was bad. The first servo I could see was about 4km from the shop, and one indicator was dangling by its wires when I stopped there. I spent an hour with the toolkit, checking every nut and bolt I could reach. As far as I could work out, the pattern went that everything Suzuki assembled in Japan was spot on. Everything - everything - done by Phil Drummond Motorcycles was a deliberate fuck up. Like the state gov regulated front number plate, which was mounted well forward on the front guard, with screwws long enough that when the guard flexed a little, as it did with the weight of the number plate, the screws dug into the tyre, and there was a god-awful bang! I only worked out what it was after about 700km when tears and gouges started to become visible on the tyre.

    That after I'd just spent about $22,000 in 2011 money with them. I know they didn't like me but that was deliberate sabotage. I've only been telling people about it for 31 years now. You wonder why I didn't go back to them for its first service?

    [edit] Just thought to have a google look. There's a Yamaha dealership called Col's Cycles on what I think is the same site, but I doubt they have anything to do with Phil Drummond.