Welcome to Netrider ... Connecting Riders!

Interested in talking motorbikes with a terrific community of riders?
Signup (it's quick and free) to join the discussions and access the full suite of tools and information that Netrider has to offer.

Gear problem with my Daytona

Discussion in 'Technical and Troubleshooting Torque' started by jamesbk, Mar 17, 2014.

  1. Hey all, been having some trouble with my 2007 Triumph Daytona, the problem is switching from first to second gear, it nearly always just goes to neutral and I need to give it a good few kicks (as hard as I can) to bang it into 2nd (and yes I am hitting it hard enough and not baby pushing it), though sometimes it'll kick up into 2nd no problems at all.

    Going from 2nd to 6th gear is no problem, and also going down from 2nd to 1st is no problem either. The bike is well maintained, chain lubed, oil kept topped up etc. It also has just had it's major 20,000 km service late last year, it's up to around 26,000km now.

    The chain has about a 3cm give which seems normal so no idea what's going on besides a problem with the gear box which i'm really hoping it isn't. Have no $$ for the mechanics as an overseas holiday is in 4 weeks but no need to hear my life story.

    Any other ideas what it could be? I would've thought a gearbox problem would affect ever gear not just going from first to second?

    Thanks all.
  2. From my experience, there is no easy fix when it comes to a gearbox problem. You can easy have a problem shifting from first to second, without affecting the rest of the gearbox. This is the part of the gearbox that receives most of the stress, taking off, and shifting from 1st to 2nd. Most likely a worn selector fork, or worn cog or slider, but the bottom line is, that gearbox needs to come apart to see what's causing the problem. It's not just a matter of changing your gearbox oil, or checking the chain slack. If you are the second or even third owner of your bike, then some previous owner has treated that gearbox harshly, when shifting from 1st to 2nd. If you can't do the work yourself, then most of the cost will be labour, parts may only be a small cost. Sorry I can't give you a more positive answer. I have delt with several gearbox problems myself, each involving mainly the first three gears. Some not going into gear, and others jumping out of gear. Worn parts were the cause in each case. This information should only be treated as a guide to your problem, as I am not a qualified mechanic, just a rider with a lot of experience in a lot of different bikes.
  3. Simple things first, has the oil been changed recently?
    Clutch adjusted correctly?
  4. Will it shift to second if you lift the shifter up, and hold the shifter up before letting the clutch out?
  5. Thanks wiseman! I am the second owner so possibly the previous owner treated it harshly.

    I'm pretty good (no where near professional) mechanically and perform all my basic maintenance myself and own one of those Haynes manuals I can use as instruction. Do you think if this could be the problem it'd be easily identifiable by having a look at the gears? I'll try and get some photos of the gearbox tomorrow sometime to see if you guys notice anything.

    Are parts for gearboxes relatively common and cheap (AKA could I run down to the local peter stevens parts dept and get them on the spot?)

    Or do you think my best bet is getting into a mechanic and let them sort it all out? I would love to try fixing it myself just for the experience but maybe that's not a realistic idea.

    Sorry for all the questions but i'm greatly appreciative for any help!
  6. Just stays in neutral, i pulled in the clutch, hit the shifter up hard and it went to neutral, i kept the shifter up and left the clutch out but still stayed in neutral.
  7. Not sure about the clutch but will check it out, and also they should've done the oil change and filter change at the 20k service right? shouldn't need to be changed until 30k as far as i know, but feel free to correct. Also surely the clutch would of been checked during it's service but that was 6,000km ago, i'll check it now.
  8. I have to agree with 'wiseman'. I suspect at the end of the day you will be looking at a worn selector fork and/or worn engagement dogs.

    "(AKA could I run down to the local peter stevens parts dept and get them on the spot?)"....LOL..... your kidding, right.....
  9. If your willing to take apart your gearbox, and look for the worn parts, then yes, you should be able to identify the worn bits. First you would need to locate 1st and 2nd gear cogs, and the fork selector that moves them. The fork selector has a minimum thickness, your workshop manual should state this. With the gear cogs, if the dogs are worn, you can get them re cut, or replace them. The dogs are the square blocks, on the side of the gear cog, they need to have sharp square edges on them, look for worn rounded edges. Although worn dogs would cause the bike to jump out of gear, where as a worn selector fork would cause hard to shift into gear. The gear cogs also slide along on a shaft, which could be worn or have a burr, preventing the cog from moving along. Could be a few reasons, but the only way to find out, is to disassemble the box. Im guessing you will have to order the parts from Triumph, they are not the type of parts they generally keep in stock. They may even have to be ordered from England. I'm actually thinking of a Daytona for my next bike, or an R6, can't decide yet.
  10. Thanks guys, seems well above my skill level (or is taking apart a gear box not too hard if i use the haynes manual) so will probably take it down to my local mechanic to get fixed up.
    The bike has never jumped out of gear so seems to pointing towards the fork selector as the problem, if it was the fork selector would there be a problem going from second to first? Because the problem is only going from first to second.

    Mike - I didn't really have much faith in peter stevens but you never know sometimes...

    Also the clutch is adjusted properly.

    Thanks for all the help guys.
  11. They may even have to be ordered from England. I'm actually thinking of a Daytona for my next bike, or an R6, can't decide yet.

    I think you might have answered yourself there - do you want to have to order parts from England? (Daytona 675R is still an awesome looking bike)
  12. They Daytona is a great bike, this is only my second problem with it in approx 4 and half years. First was the R/R and now this which I'm hoping wont be a major drama.
  13. if it was the fork selector would there be a problem going from second to first? Because the problem is only going from first to second.

    Yes, as there is more than one selector fork in the gearbox, the one causing the problem, would be #1, or the one that shifts 1st to 2nd gear. There could be 3 or 4 selector forks in your gearbox, but I've never seen the inside of a Daytona gearbox.
  14. I can tell when its time for an oil change because the gear changes do not work as well with old oil compared to new. Might be worth changing your oil if its been 6000k's (I do oil every 5000k's). Sounds like your issue is more serious that just oil, but a cheap first step to problem solving?
  15. if the shop has to split the cases it might cost more than the bike is worth
  16. Uncle greg, would you/they need to split the case to check for the gear fork?

    I'm going to a complete oil change (will change oil filter tomorrow when the bike shop is open, tried supercheap auto etc). Will let you guys know how it goes.

    EDIT: as wiseman pointed out if it is a dodgy fork selector for 1st and 2nd gear would that also affect going from 2nd to 1st? Because that is no problem.
  17. yeah I think they would, try the oil change adjust gear leaver and what not first, maybe ask at the shop what they think
  18. Looks like you've got 3 fork selectors.
    On ebay there's 09 Triumph Daytona 675 Triple Shift Drum & Forks S6 for $40 second hand plus shipping. (which wont fit, but just an example for price)
    Or 06 to 08 - Pulled off of a 2008 Daytona Triumph 675 with 18,811 miles on it for $50 + shipping

    Not that i'm advocating second hand - they're 80 / 90 dollars OR pounds new each depending where you shop................... and you still have a fair bit of work to do to identify the problem
  19. Selector forks slide side to side, if a fork selector is bent or badly worn ( usually one face more than the other ) then it will not quite push the gear far enough in one direction to fully engage, and still fully engage the gear in the other direction.

    For your entertainment....note the little picture in the bottom right hand corner showing the selector forks in action
  20. Thanks again Mike, makes sense now how the gearing all works now. Just hoping it's not a worn/dodgy fork selector..

    I noticed looking around the gear lever that there seems to be a loose point, like when I wiggle the lever up and down (not changing gears) this part seems to be loose, I took a few photos to demonstrate what I mean. If you guys dont understand me i'll take a video and put that up.


    Attached Files: