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G'day ! I need your input :)

Discussion in 'Welcome Lounge' started by CoolMango, Apr 23, 2013.

  1. Hi All

    Firstly - this is my very first attempt at anything like this with wheels and moving bits...

    I have almost finished rebuilding a bike an XV 250 Virago (1993). I am not mechanical and it took me several months.

    I am looking for some help to tie up the loose ends - I live North of Brisbane area - firstly to give it a "once over" and secondly to help me with putting on the new chain - as I have conflicting info and I don't want to screw it up ( the manual says 114 links, the box says 120 links, and the bike wants about 117 links....)

    I also need to have the engine tuned properly - though she sound pretty good to me. Now I don't know anyone to ask, and I am doing it on the cheap. the bike cost me $300.00 and i have spent about the same on everything. This one is for the wife. I hope to post a wanted advert for a non running 250cc for myself..

    The upside is I now know how to make any bike look million $$$ no matter how bad she is, and I have some idea about how the engine works. So the next bike will be far easier for me to work with..

    Is anyone willing or know someone who can help me get the chain on and the brakes bled - so I can to the step two - have her roadworthed and registered ??

  2. Welcome. It may help if you say where you are so people can see if they are local. :)
  3. Cool I'd like to do something like this myself

    PICS ?
  4. in regards to the chain you want to get your rear wheel on but not fully locked into place and tightened. You then get your chain fed onto the sprockets and mark what link you are up to when the 2 ends meet on the sprocket, you then use your chain breaker to remove the excess link and then put in your connecting link to join the 2 ends of the chain together.
    Once you have riveted your chain this is when your will adjust the final amount of slack and then tighten your axle.

    Make sure your rear sprocket is running true to the front and that you dont rivet the connecting link to tight. It should be the same width when riveted as the links next to it.

    Let me know if that doesn't make sense and I will try and explain it better.
  5. Here is a youtube link to a video that may help make it clearer.

  6. Here is one that will help with the brake bleeding, you wont need any special tools just a spanner and some plastic tubing and a glass jar to hold your brake fluid.

    Remember that when doing up your brake caliper bleed nipples that they only need to be snug dont gorilla grip them or you will damage the seating in the caliper and they will leak.

  7. So, I'm a mechanical novice but I have changed the chain on my bike recently.

    The manual for my bike said 112 links (IIRC) but the chain I bought had 120. That meant cutting a bunch of links off the new chain before fitting the master link. The original chain also had 112 links, but was noticeably longer than 112 links of the new chain because it had stretched with use - so you need to actually count the links, not just compare length. When the new chain went on, it was very tight.

    So with that in mind - what do you mean by "the bike wants 117 links"? Do you have an old chain to count the links of?
  8. as @cameronp mentions above, the bike 'needs' a specific length of chain and your manual will tell you how many links this is, the chain will stretch over time through use and as cameronp above pointed out the amount of links dont necessarily mean the chain will be the same 'physical' lenght. COUNT THE LINKS and ensure your new chain has the same amount of links as the old one, you will need to 'adjust' your rear wheel to 'push it forward' so that the new 'shorter' chain will fit on, how are the sprockets? New chain 'mostly' means new sprockets may be required, check the teeth for wear and replace them if uncertain, you'll only do this once a year at worse [well unless you hate your bike and treat it badly] enough from me :) good luck.