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FZR 250 2KR Regulator wiring

Discussion in 'Maintenance and Servicing' at netrider.net.au started by AeroJake, Mar 27, 2015.

  1. Hi guys,
    Just wondering if anyone knows what pin the red wire wire connects to on a FZR R/R I am replacing it back to the original 4 pin from the 5 pin setup hoping to fix my battery charging problem pretty sure the last regulator /rectifier is knackered I will be running some voltage checks once its hooked up am I right in saying that a battery not charging will either be a problem with the R/R or the stator considering the battery is new? Cheers.
    I would post a pic but im not sure how to theres no button to attach/upload a image


     
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  2. Hi Jake, As you are a new member some functions of the site, including image uploading will be closed to you for the moment. As you post more and people interact with you these limitations will disappear. Go and start a welcome thread to introduce your self in the Welcome Lounge is is the custom around here and you will likely get more responses if it looks like you are going to be a member of the community.

    Generally you are right no charge is either regulator or Alternator Stator. There are a few other possibilities that come up such as poor connections etc but they are rarer. I am surprised that you say the original Reg was 4 wire, 5 wire is the norm 3 alternator wires, commonly yellow or white and a red and black DC side positive and negative. What year is your bike, 47 and 44 below in the wiring diagram shows it as 5 wire.

    [​IMG]
     
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  3. Thanks for the reply I will be sure to visit the welcome lounge and introduce myself the bike is a 1988.
     
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  4. Ok, I can't find a specific 1988 wiring diagram. It's possible that the 4 wire version does not have a black negative wire if the box is bolted to the frame, it will be using the frame as the DC return. The red wire would probably be the positive and would need to go back to the battery. The Wiring diagram shows it connecting back though the main fuse (Fuse 39) to the battery.

    Hope that makes sense. You can host pictures on other sites such as Flickr and link those images in using the URL before you get access to upload images.
     
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  5. So wired up new rectifier and ran some test this is what I got.

    Battery 12.5v
    Battery at 4000revs 12.8v

    Voltage at all combinations of white wires from stator 31v at 4000revs

    No amperage between negative terminal and negative post
     
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  6. Not good, at cruising revs you should be getting 13.8 - 14.5 volts for a battery float charge. No current (amps) means it is not attempting to charge. Check all your connections from the Alternator to the regulator and then from the reg to he battery.
     
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  7. I was told to check the amps between neg terminal and neg battery post with bike off Dont know the reason behind this.
    But at idle im only getting a reading of 9.6v
    3mins later it is at 8.7v I will check all the connections/wiring as you have mentioned and hope i can find something if not looks like im up for a stator. Just ran it on idle for maybe 7mins and the battery is drained.
     
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  8. Ok so just checked out the wires from the stator and went over all connections all seems to be ok a set ran to the reg and the other set went to the CDI with 1 red wire pissing off to the battery positive.
     
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  9. Is there anyway I can remove the stator and visually check if it has gone bad?
     
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  10. Generally testing amperage with the bike off is to look for leakage current that drives the battery flat. It is one of the failure modes that a regulator can have. If the battery is running flat in 7 minutes then that is a significant drain on the battery somewhere. It should not go flat in that short a time, particularly if it is a new battery as you say in your first post.

    Disconnect the battery and charge it with an external charger until it is fully charged. With the bike off measure the current between the battery negative and the battery negative connection, use the highest current range your multimeter has for this test, you will need to disconnect the negative from the battery for this. If you are drawing current then disconnect the regulator on the DC side. Check that the current draw disappears, if it does there is a reg problem. If it doesn't then your current draw is elsewhere on the bike.

    If the bike is one with permanent headlights on then this will be some of the drain experienced. It should not be enough to drive the battery flat in 7 minutes though.
     
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  11. Yes usually there will be discoloration of the tape covering the windings if it has shorted turns. If it has open circuit turns then measuring the resistance between windings when it is disconnected should give roughly equal readings.
     
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  12. The bike does run with a permanent headlight
    Is the reading of 31v from the stator normal at 4000rpm ?
    I will try the test method you have explained and see what I come up with.
     
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  13. Measuring AC voltage? The alternator puts out AC, yes 30 + volts is about right. Was that with the regulator connected or not?
     
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  14. With the Regulator not connected
     
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  15. Ok so done your test mentioned with the neg terminal to neg battery post got a reading of 25.5 then unpluged the reg and I dident get a reading. Yesterday was the first time ive used a multimeter so hope I have it on the right settings for this test I had it on AC and set on 200. Done it in DC aswell and got the same results.
     
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  16. After rereading your post I think you meant to check the draw with reg connected on AC then check draw with reg disconnected on DC I did this and came back with the same results as mentioned above.
     
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  17. Not sure if you are understanding the difference between voltage measurement and current measurement. Just to be sure that you do, Voltage is measured across two points measured in volts either AC or DC, most of the bike with the exception of the output of the alternator will be DC.

    Current (AMPS) is measured by breaking the circuit and putting the meter in between the break, usually it will require you to move the probes on the multimeter to another plug on the front and change the range switch to AMPS. Looking for drain it is best to start on the highest current range you have which is commonly 10 amps on many mutimeters.

    What I am trying to determine in the battery negative current test is how much current is being drawn when the bike is not running. This may explain why the battery is going flat.

    If your reading above is correct and you are drawing 25amps then it is not surprising your battery is going flat. And if that figure is correct and the current stops when the regulator is disconnected it points to the regulator.
     
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  18. Thanks for the info now I should have the correct measurments lol.
    Ok so I got a reading of 7.4A then disconnected reg and got 7.2A .
    I also tested the pins on the reg and they all came back with the same values had to reverse bias to get the readings though, tested combinations of positive pin to all 3 stator pins and ground pin to all 3 stator pins
     
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  19. Ok, the 7 amps is probably the headlight and tail light, sounds about right. No/marginal change in the current with the reg in and out suggest there is no problem with drain due to a faulty reg.

    Back to no charge happening, Regulators on bikes are what are known as Shunt regulators which means they short current out to bring the voltage down and remove the short to bring the voltage up. Commonly if they go faulty the voltage rises. Your symptoms of the charge voltage being low is a more unusual situation. Low voltage is more commonly a sign of Stator issues. I can't find a manual for the 250 but the 400 which is very similar says the resistance from winding to winding on the stator with is disconnected should be about 0.66 ohm. May be worth checking if you haven't done that already.

    Did you say this is a new regulator?
     
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  20. Its a used rec/reg but used it to replace the last 5 pin one that was installed hoping it'd fix it although the guy at the wreckers said he didn't think there was anything wrong with the 5 pin one maybe i should go buy it back off of him considering that one had heatshink and the one I have is a stock one known to burn out easily.
    So I should remove the stator and place the prongs between each of the windings to measure the resistance between all combinations?
     
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