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Fuel Tank Dent

Discussion in 'Bling and Appearance' started by Caddyman, Sep 19, 2006.

  1. HI All

    I'm fixing up a GPX 250, and the fuel tank has a nice size dent in it. I have tried suction cup things to pull the dent out, but it didn't work as the dent is on a major crease.

    Anyone have a suggestion on what else to try.


    A recommendation of business in Sydney (i'm in Campbelltown) that would be able to help (without costing the earth).

    Thanx in advance
  2. What's since size?
  3. do you just need the dent pull back or/ and repair?
  4. If you want some guys to look at it there is a group called Crow's Custom Paint in Beverly Hills (no relation to the hillbillies). They do great work and I highly recommend them especially for repairs to dents in fuel tanks.

    Ph, (02) 9502 4353
  5. Sorry nice size dent, edited now.....

    Just need the dent pulled out, the tank has no holes or leaks.

  6. bog it up and paint over it
  7. damage free dent pulling (as in hail damage) aint all it's cracked up to be.

    Some insurance companys won't touch you if you've had this done.

    The work can not be guarenteed as the paint loses it's adhesion in the dented area after repair.

    The result is a small stone chip in the repaired area will tend to take out a chip of paint the same size as original dent.

    Just put a matching dent in the other side and call it a "custom"
  8. I like your thinking.

    I don't want to bog it, I hate that stuff....... :p

    The paint on the tank is still OK, so just want to pull the dents out, then I will see how the paint is holding. Hoping I don't need to paint it.....
  9. do u know how much it is to pull the dents out of the tank? keep us updated
  10. the point is that the paint would have already lost some of its adhesive qualities from the first dent, pulling it will flex it again and further reduce the adhesion of the paint.
    then upon striking this particular spot with a stone or similar you will lose substantially more paint.
    i say get it pulled and respray, but that obviously depends on budget. if you can tolerate that one day you might lose a chunk of paint, get it pulled and see how you go :)
  11. is bogging any good on metal? its not a bad idea
  12. Another interested party here...
  13. take note also of what happens to a coathanger when you bend it back and forwards. the mechanical properties of the metal changes with movement causing it to harden, then become brittle, and then fail.

    thats the reason it is more common to sand back, bog the dent and then respray.

    nobody wants to crack their tank...
  14. bogging aint bad, modern body fillers aint what they used to be. (crap)

    Cheap bog or to much hardener can literally suck the colour out the paint over time.

    The end job is only as good as your preperation, The tank should be taken back to bare metal then similar to a very fine "file finish" to give the bog something to hold onto(adhesian)

    Shrinkage and sucking colour are not traits of modern body filler.

    Work-hardening of the metal will occur but the problem is like this.

    The dented area on the tank, the metal has been stretched and would need shrinking if it was to be perfectly flat again, this requires labour/skill wich is damn expensive and bloody difficult on a tank. (oxy torch, them little cute hammers 'n dollys. tap, tap tap tap, tappity tap tap, woops, bang, boom.

    Bog is a financial descision, there is alternatives such as "lead-wipeing" but good luck finding any-one that can actualy do it decently. I tried, you need 3 hands.

    If I had to get a dent out cheap/easy as possible. Sand the dented area back to bare metal but all paint gets a "rough-up" sanding. (fresh paint will not stick to well to smooth/dry paint)

    Same colour or darker will be used, light colours with little pigment will be harder to cover up such as whites/yellows ect.

    Things you will need, bog, prepsol,thinners,paint,undercoat,top coat, clear, air compressor, spray gun, rags, regulator/moisture trap, various grades of papers, sanding block/sanding board. Expect $80 p/L of decent quality paint. (only need 1/4 L prolly)

    Care should be taken useing good quality thinners over not so good quality paint, old shitty paint can bubble severely if a better quality thiners is used in the newly applied spray paint.

    I have left out approx 80%-95% of info, mainly due to the fact no one likes reading all my rubbish, but if you got this far than I recommend putting the tank into a shop or just bog it and be done with it. Pressure pack can of red from K-mart and no one will notice at 150+ except you.

    WARNING, I am not a panel beater, It's just trade related and I've ended up competent enough to get by.

    Let me know if you want more indepth advice on various aspects of it.(finished job of an amatuer WILL show a lack of experiance)