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Front fork seal leak

Discussion in 'Technical and Troubleshooting Torque' started by PEEair, Jan 2, 2012.

  1. I just went out to the garage today to check on my bike and noticed that the left front fork seal is leaking. It's a Ninja 250r with ~6,000 km on it, is this normal? And also does anyone know how much it cost to get it fix at a mechanic and where would be the best place to go to? Somewhere near the west side of Melbourne if possible.

  2. What year is your ninja? Someone here had similar problem and got it fixed under warranty. Not sure how much it would cost but sounds pricy...

    Oh, and there's nothing bling about front forks... lol

    btw, check out this thread https://netrider.net.au/forums/showthread.php?t=128496
    • Like Like x 2
  3. theres a kawasaki dealer/shop at cnr Millers and Geelong rds, have a great reputation. with 6k on the clock depending on the year of course that should be a warranty issue.
  4. It's an 09 model and is a repairable write off so I doubt it is still under warranty. I'm planning to go to Motorcycle City tomorrow, does anyone have any experience with them?
  5. New fork seal is about $10 but will take about an hour or so to fit.
    Check to see if there is any pitting on the fork sliders that may have caused the leak although with an 09' bike I would say the fork seal has just shat itself.
    Don't think your bike will be covered by a warranty.

  6. Do you have a workshop manual? Is this a job that could be done at home?? I wouldn't have thought you'd need any 'special' tools to disassemble the fork to check the seals?

    BTW, the Seal-mate mentioned above is a great idea!!
  7. What's pitting? Sorry I'm still pretty new to this.
  8. If you don't know what u'r doing, best bring it to a mechanic or talk to streetmaster.
  9. I noticed today that my left fork has leaked some fluid. Popped off the dust seal and ran a strip of thin plastic around the oil seal (like the seal-mate idea). Took it for a ride through the hills and it seems to have stopped it.

    Very happy with the result and hopefully it holds. Really can't be bothered pulling the forks off.
  10. I thought about doing that, but my fork oil was black. I guess the previous owner never change it, so I took it to a mechanic and had everything changed and now it's all good again.
  11. Pitting is when you get tiny chips in your fork sliders mainly due to rocks, debris etc hitting them whilst riding. These tiny chips can provide a rough surface on the fork sliders and when your forks go up and down, the seals can sometimes rub over them and cause tiny cracks which is enough to cause oil to leak. If there is any pitting, just use some extremley fine sandpaper, wet it in warm water and detergent and lightly rub the fork sliders to remove the chips -easy!
    Fekkinell has a good technique to use as it is a bit of a pain taking the forks off and if you don't really know what you are doing it can become a frustrating chore.

  12. I noticed my fork seals leaking the other day. Too many monos!
  13. So how much did that cost you mate?
    Got the same problem on the g/f 250R

    I've had two quotes in sydney, $4-500 striaght up.
  14. fork seal's are another easy job to do in the garage and requires only a seal driver (PVC pipe will work) as a special tool.

    Seals and oil will cost you about $100, and the job will take you a couple of hours.
  15. depending on the fork designs, some forks also reuire a special tool to reach down into the fork and hold a nut while removing the bottom bolt that holds the fork together. sometimes you can make one using some threaded rod, some nuts and a socket
  16. This!!!
  17. No such thing. Fork seals are consumables, like tyres & oil. :)
  18. A rattlegun works to get the bottom bolt undone too (although probably isn't in most people's tool arsenal).
  19. I had it done with a garage mechanic that I know so it was only $120 with me helping him. If I remember correctly I was quoted ~$350 when I asked around, so your price is abit high. What you can do is take the forks out and bring it to a mechanic, that should reduce the labour cost.
  20. Yeah, given that most of my tools are from swap-meets or bulk rubbish collections, that wasn't really an option. Also using the special tool allows you to use a torque wrench when you re-tighten the bolt (although TBH I don't know how necessary that is).