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Friction modifiers - car oil in bike

Discussion in 'Bling and Appearance' started by Prot3us1`, Dec 21, 2006.

  1. Hi, ive just recently discovered, the bike i purchased has had car oil put in it!!! and im curious if flushing the sump with fresh oil and changing the oil filter is enough to fix any damage done, or will i now need a new clutch :(...

  2. At the very least i'd be pulling the clutch apart and scrubbing all the plates thoroughly. Chances are the friction modifiers have now made their way into the material friction plates and as such, they're as good as cooked. Replacement material clutch packs should set you back more than ~$70-100 depending on the bike so i'd say thats money well spent.
  3. i figured i might have to go that far with it all, i think ill just replace the friction plates.
    Im thinking of changing brake fluids too..for all i know hes used some non compatible fluid there too...its not so hard to read a maual for 30 seconds and make sure you are puttng the right stuff in is it?

    thanks for your reply!
  4. Put some diesel fuel in the gearbox and warm the bike up. Take it for a sympathic ride around the block, operating the clutch as much as you can.

    Put some good oil in and give it a go.

    You might be lucky.

    The worst case is you'll have to replace the friction plates, but you'll want to do the above first, even if you do that.
  5. Is it a problem if it the same rating?

    Oils is oils ain't they?? :? :?
  6. Wet clutches don't like friction modifiers. The get a build up, then won't grip.
  7. Well you learn something new everyday, so buy oil from a bike shop is the go?

    Lucky I have left it up to the mechanic in the past.
  8. Unfortunatly not that straight forward SOME car oils are ok, in particular the more costly synthetic ones, Mobil 1 gold cap for instance.
  9. Thanks guys I will do a search I am sure this has been covered before.
  10. most fully synthetic oils are fine. They cost about twice normal car oil, but only about half of what bike oil costs. They are probably better too.
  11. jeesus h christ

    oil itself is a friction modifier. Ride the fookin thing and stop worrying. There are many hundreds of thousands of threads about this sh1te.

    Given the brake fluid remark, this has to be a troll.

    what's the bike btw? you reckon someone with what is likely to be a cheap learners bike is going to put $50 worth of silicon based brake fluid in it? or $120 worth of 0W30 full synthetic engine oil that'll cause a problem?

    Hands up how many of you think that MA rated oils come out of a special plant and is different to all the 'car only' oils out there?

  12. Thanks mate so Mobil 1 or similair would be the go.
  13. i've put 180,000 + 70,000 km on two blackbirds including many track days using mostly mobil 1. Neither one ever needed a new clutch.

    ibast, what's with the diesel in the oil mate? you own shares in some mechanics and spare parts shops do you? At the very least, what is the point in stripping and replacing many hundreds of dollars worth of equipment when nothing has been said/shown to go wrong?

    Kind of like your doctor saying "man, you just ate a fatty snack! we'll book you in now to get a new heart, as your old one will be stuffed because of it!"
  14. Ah, yeup bonox has a point.
    I just completely glossed over the information given in the original post and assumed it had been filled with something containing friction modifiers. Fast forward slightly and i read it as "i put bad oil in my bike and now my clutch is slipping... mmmkay."

    As has been said, there's heaps of car oils out there that are fine for use in a motorbike. I for one have used Penrite HPR10 in previous bikes with no issues at all. In fact, swapping from semi-synth Shell bike oil to the Penrite car oil actually stopped an old tired clutch from slipping... although it could've just needed an oil change. :p

    If your concerned, drop the oil and replace it with something that lets you sleep at night. Otherwise just ride the bike and enjoy yourself.

    No, but i've definitely proven that they can hear you singing when stopped at traffic lights. :oops: :wink:
  15. The bike is not a learner legal POS, and when i HAD the learner legal bike (Across) i used the best oil anyways...
    The only reason i ask is because the clutch is slipping like crazy...for instance, if i am at traffic lights and take off fast the clutch wont fully engage until im about 60 kph, even though the lever is all the way out.
    Ive put bike specific oil and a new filter in now, rode it for about 200km then changed the oil again just to be sure, and now im getting minimal slippage...but its still slipping...new clutch kit apparently is about $500 - $550 fully installed... the bikes a ZX-6R.
    The diesel idea sounds like a good one...ive also been told to put a heavier weight oil in..apparently in australia we can go along fine with slightly heavier oil as we dont get down to real low temperatures...but for now its back to a ridable state, and once ive got the clutch kit on (full kit, plates, pads, springs and gaskets) ill get them to give it a good clean out while its all apart. and go back to the good oil again.

    having re-read my post it seems as if im implying the new clutch kit is a definite..its not im gonna give this oil some time to penetrate the pores of the friction plates and such and hopefully it will fix itself...the clutch plates are all still fine, they are quite meaty....we will see what goes on though

    Thanks everyone for the responses! ill keep dropping in and update how its all going.

    and i agree, and know that some car oils are fine, in the manual of each bike it will say what oils you can use (the rating not the weight), the guy i bought the bike off obviously didnt read the manual though.. the oil was pitch black anyways, so maybe all she needed was a good clean...who knows, ive done her service now, so back to regular services and stuff and i shouldnt have any other probs...:D


    and bobox...oil is NOT a friction modifier, a friction modifier is a chemical additive that leaves a coating over everything that protects at startup and offers better protection during operation..look it up ;)

    if you are the kind of person to say "oh the book says use only dot4 brake fluid" but fcuk it i have some cooking oil in the pantry ill use that it will be fine. then thats your problem....its called natural selection, and nature will sort you out mate..

    :) kudos to you though..i know how hard it is to be such a know it all...and everyone respects you im sure...from now on, if i ask a question and you dont have anything polite to say..STFU and go somewhere else...

  16. Huh?

    I assume he's asking because the clutch is slipping. I've just suggest a method for getting all the bad oil out. If that doesn't fix the problem then the only thing he can do is replace the friction plates.

    Perhaps you misread my post.
  17. ibast, i understood what you meant mate...it would break down the oil in the gearbox already and when it was flushed through id be left with a clean sump and gearbox to fill with good oil...
  18. Most modern engine oils will have friction modifiers. I stay away from anything with higher than an SG rating for my bike, and I often use that in my car as well.
    For those that don't know, SG was teh last of the oil ratings that had high anti scuff additives, which is good for older technology engines without roller cams/ roller cam followers. Now, not many bikes have roller cams or followers, and the anti scuff additives are fantastic for gears as well.
    You can get away with SH oils, they just had less anti scuff plus a few other changes, SJ on is where I draw the line.
    I've used Castrol Edge syntehtic in the GTR, horrible slip.
    And, you will NOT ned to disassemble the bike, or add anything befor eoil change to get rid of the offending oil, just let it drain.
    There are a few good SG oils still on the market, all the major oil manufacturers still have them in their catalogues, but it might mean a trip to an oil supplier.
    Still, it's going to be half the going price for "motorcycle oil" so it will be worth it, and you can roder it in bulk too, to save several trips.
    I won't go into teh whole motorcycle gearboxes chewing up oil myth, I can think of several cars that shared engine lube oil with the transmission, and hundreds that specify engine oil for gearboxes.....

    Regards, Andrew.
  19. The price problem with motorcycle oil isn't so much that it's motorcycle oil - more that it's sold in motorcycle shops ;). I've noticed that Supercheap Auto has started stocking a few motorcycle oils from both Castrol and Fuchs that are quite reasonably priced. I'm using the synthetic Castrol at the moment which at something like 50 bucks for 4 litres is really no more expensive than many synthetic car engine oils - and it's much cheaper than paying a mechanic to change it :).
  20. Yes last night i had a friend who rides bigger bikes say hes used a lot of different oils, and he recommends the shell bike oils...and that was only $35 for 4 litres...so ive used that for the flush and refill.