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Friction and clutch plate wear.

Discussion in 'Bling and Appearance' started by Fj1100, Dec 2, 2006.

  1. Oi!! spanner heads!! Have a look 'ere eh?


    Anyway, the FJ clutch has started slipping on me. It always has slipped a bit, when I try to start a burnout in 2nd gear on the tarmack, and pretty much any gear at 8K RPM will let it slip, but now, after it warms up a bit, it slips with even the tinyest bit of throttle.

    Now, it feels like the clutch isn't returning properly, like something's binding, So I flushed the clutch hydrolic lines, dismantled and cleaned up the slave cylinder (there was some corrosion and crap in the bore), checked out the master piston (it was very smooth) checked all the rubber hoses and changed the oil, nothing seemed to help.

    Now I pulled the clutch apart to have a look, but the friction plates look like they have life left in em, and I don;tthink the clutch plates wear do they? Do they look Ok in that pic? that is the worst clutch plate.

    My only other thoughts are the spring? I'll get a heavier replacement from the bike shop next week, but I really wanted to go on the maq. pass/RNP run tomorrow!

    Can anyone help at thelast minute?

    TIA, Tim!
  2. Jeez, I dunno, Tim, if I'd have pulled a clutch down that far and seen plates like that I'd have replaced them anyway, they're more than 80% worn.....
  3. There's a bit of blung on the steel plates, but are stil serviceable. You can get away with those frictin plates, but how many km's do you ride?
    Teh clutch springs will have a free lentgh measurement for them, if they ar eunder they should be replaced, and they should be checked for squareness with a square. Any cocked springs are a fail.

    Regards, Andrew.
  4. Yeah the plates look servicable ata pinch

    Springs if they measure up okay will be okay

    But you havent shown us the clutch basket i bet they have nice notches in the outer basket where the friction plates sit.

    You need to extract the outer drum and run a file up and down the notches to remove them not to much though

    The reson is under load the plates will not return or resist opening
    thats why its feeling funny trying to disengage.

    I wont go on with the cush drive in the basket but springs in the back of the unit may also be giving probs

    Good luck
  5. It doesn't matter too much paul, it only takes 10 minutes to get the clutch plates out. I love the setup on bikes (after doing way too many cars...)

    I put if back together and while assembling, I found a peice of metal, looks like the tab from the locking washer for the bolt holding the clutch basket to the gearbox main shaft.

    It looks like this peice of metal was sitting in the pressure plate, and stopping it from applying pressure to the friction plates...

    The clutch is now better than it was before. It used to just slip whenever I tried to do roll-on burnouts in second, now she lights up nicely!

    now to get the shorter front sprocket...

  6. hah hah Tim, I know all about your second gear rolling burn-outs! The start of Bells Line of Road at around 8:00pm on the way back from Tamworth springs to mind.

    Good to hear you got things back right with the clutch....
  7. GTR's do that. There's a star spring (part of the back torque limiting clutch) that breaks and jams in teh clutch plates. They redesigned teh springs and redesigned the nut, maybe a service fix is available for your type of bike too?

    Regards, Andrew.
  8. Paul that was back when I could only do little girlie burnouts. I've been practising!

    The bit of metal was just the locking tab, not dure what sheared it off, I tried to loosen the nut with a real big extension bar but couldn't budge it so I doubt it's loose. I didn't have a clutch hub locking thingo so I didn't want to stress the gearbox too much and left it be.

    It'll be right now.