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Forks GSXR-600 SRAD 1997

Discussion in 'Technical and Troubleshooting Torque' started by bluecraka, Sep 7, 2014.

  1. Would it be cheaper to just get aftermarket forks or have the stock ones rebuilt.
    Bike has 90000kms on it and I have had it parked up for approximately two years. I did have the fork oil change and new seals down approximately two years before that but thinking with that many kms, they possibly need overhaul or replacement?

    It appears to me that OEM forks are not available for it anymore want are compatible replacements?

    To get forks out , how should one support the bike? Paddock stand or under frame somehow?

  2. Take the bike to a decent suspension guy. Much cheaper than after market forks (by a very big margin). If suspension guys can't get parts for it, I'll be very surprised.
  3. Ok thanks. Thought that might be the case. Do you or anyone else no a good bike suspension guy in Newcastle/Lake Macquarie area or nearby ie perhaps Sydney?
  4. I'm in Melbourne, so no idea, but I'm sure there would be someone on NR who would know who to go to.
  5. Are you noticing anything particularly wrong with how your forks are performing for the kind of riding you do?
  6. Pretty much any bike shop should be able to service the forks. Apart from replacing the seals, with a bike of that age you may also need to replace the outer dust seals, and perhaps get a bush kit for it as well. These parts are usually easy to get aftermarket, but if not then genuine consumables are usually still available. If the chrome tubing is rusted, then they can be sent to "Rad Hard Chroming" for replating. If you wanted to improve upon the stock damping & springs, then you could speak to "Shock Treatment" or "Technik Motorsports" for some new springs & valving.
    As far as lifting the bike to pull the forks out, there are a number of ways. There is a front lift available from "Anderson Stands", which lifts from the bottom of the steering stem. The back of the bike needs to be on a lift stand to begin with, to keep the bike stable. The other option is to put bike on a lift bench, then lift rear of bike with lift stand, strap rear of bike to bench, then place jack under engine/exhaust as far forward as possible and jack up.
    Disaster alert, I would not recommend jacking while on side stand.
  7. Not at the moment, I haven't ridden the bike for approximately two years, just need to tidy/fix a couple things up on it before I get it re-registered and back on the road.
  8. There is a couple of light rust spots in the section between the two clamps that hold the forks (if that makes sense) which I'm relatively sure I can rub out, but not the lower section.

    I just thought that with that many kms (90000kms) things like springs within the forks would not function as they once did. Or is that just a silly thought?

    Will definitely get myself a headlift stand and rear stand so I can start to work on the girl though.
  9. Yes, springs can sag a bit over time, allowing the bike to sit a little lower and dive a bit more under braking. But you can live with it. I'd only do something about it if you found it really annoying / extremely poor handling, or if you loved the bike & money was no issue, and you wanted it as new / better than new.
  10. With 90,000km & sitting for two years, I can think of many other things that might need attending to, which would have a higher priority than the forks.
  11. I agree, will be looking to replace wheel bearings, swing arm bearing, drive chain etc. Obvioulsy fuel and oil filte and new oil.. What other things did you have in mind?
  12. Not in any particular order; Coolant condition, check or replace. Brake system, check for any drag on wheels, and if so strip & clean brake callipers replacing O'ring seals & brake fluid. Oil clutch & throttle cables. Grease lever pivots, side stand pivot, gear lever pivot. Carburettors may be gummed up and require strip, clean & replace O'rings / gaskets. Be aware that as well as bearings in the rear wheel, there is also a bearing in the rear sprocket carrier. The wheel bearings would only need changing if there is play or you can hear / feel rumbling with the wheel rotating. You can extend their life by adding a few drops of oil to each bearing, as long as you are careful removing & replacing the rubber seals. If swing arm pivot bearings have no play, and when dismantled are found to have no rust, then they can be re packed with grease. Same goes for rear suspension linkage bearings. Check steering stem bearings for any notches, and if ok then can re grease. Check air filter condition as well as any air box foam seals. Tyre condition, pressure.
  13. Thanks for that, definitely a few things I didn't think of . Was planning on replacing all fluid. I know I already have a problem with the rear brake, just no brake action ie caliper doesnt appear to be working yet to check resevoir etc.
  14. I just remembered that the 1997 model may be one of the first fuel injected models. If so disregard my comments about the carbs.
  15. The 600 SRAD was always carbed. the 750 went efi 98 on i think. With your rear brake it most likely just needs a good flush and bleed with fresh fluid to get the air out.
  16. Yeah she is definitely old school with carbs, a little more raw than FI. Carbs I think are fine, I removed the old fuel before starting it and replaced with new fuel, it starts and idles fine and seem to rev through rev range ok.
    Yeah I have to check the brake out yet.