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Fork Seal

Discussion in 'Technical and Troubleshooting Torque' started by western wolf, Jun 6, 2006.

  1. hi all riding around lately and noticed front fork seal is gone on the right hand side of my suzuki gsxf across (1995). Anyone know if this is an easy fix just requiring a purchase of new seal and installing myself or if it would be easier to take into shop. Also how much roughly would it cost to get reparied if taken in. Thanks heaps for any comments.

  2. Not too sure about the ACROSS but I had to replace both seals on my Spada - Considered doing it myself but then I would have had to disassemble the whole fork leg and deal with countless springs, seals, bungs, screws, etc and decided it wasn't worth it.

    Bike shop only charged me $100 bucks for labour anyway.
  3. right way up folks are pretty easy to do yourself.

    Just jack the front wheel off the ground, pull the wheel off, loosen the tripple clamps and bump the folk out.

    From there it's pretty easy.

    find a workshop manual and be skeptical when it states "use tool kolgjkh1234".

    I don't know about USD's
  4. Fork seals are fairly straight forward on right side up bikes as long as you remove the fork leg from the bike first.

    Most times upside downies are best left to the shops...
  5. just a quick hint for doing forks if you have a rattle gun it us easy to get the damper screw out from the bottom then you do not need tool xyz to hold the damper from the top to stop it spinning.

    PVC pipe can be used to push the seals into the fork slider

    Good luck
  6. I'm getting my fork seals done by Balls High Performance Tuning in Sunshine, VIC, and so far I've been told it will cost me $190 for both sides of the fork.

    I was quoted $300 from Raceway Suzuki in Niddrie.

    How much did it cost people to do themselves and how much did people pay for a shop to do them?
  7. Never put any of my bikes in for 'fork seals' so dont know about bike shop prices for that ................... But eg: my VTR1000 $35 for the seals, 15 for the fork oil, 5.00 for a 100ml syringe from a chemist and about an hr a side to do myself, useing just basic tools. Could be done alot quicker with as mentioned above using a 'rattle' gun on the damper screw out etc etc

  8. Here are some quick tips as i had to over haul my forks at the weekend and bung in some steering head bearings

    1 before removing the forks from the lower triple clamp loosen the top bridge bolts and just loosen the top nut of the forks before undoing the bolts of the triple clamp (ready made pipe vice that dosent have jaws)

    2 Loosen the damper screw while the springs are still in the forks the pressure of them against the damper is enough to stop them spinning
    (didnt need either the rattle gun or the special tool xyz)

    3 Now here is the tricky bit some forks will not dissasemble straight away you need to place the lower leg in a vice (Use the caliper mounting areas)
    and using the upper leg as a slide hammer tap out the upper bearing (do not and i mean do not smash the crap out of them)

    4 Degrease everything in sight good kero bath the amount of sludge that came out of them after the almost clean oil form a recent oil change had to be seen to be believed

    5 When reassembling everthing ensure there are no burrs or knocks on the bearings or sliders I had some scores that where casing sticktion on my forks

    Just some tips took about 5 hours to do all up including re welding frame stop lugs new steering head bearings and a lick of paint to finish