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Fork seal replacement

Discussion in 'Bling and Appearance' started by N*A*M, Jul 30, 2007.

  1. I just did my F2 fork seals in about 2hrs. Happy with that for a first time go. It's all pretty logical and straight forward. Only uncommon tool would be a 24mm socket for the fork cap (which I had). You could get by with a quality adjustable wrench. Here's my run down for the easy method (no pulling fork internals apart! :) )

    - Remove upper fairing
    - Remove brakes and front wheel
    - Remove clipons
    - Remove one fork
    - Undo fork cap (watch for spring tension!)
    - Drain oil
    - Undo fork cap from damper rod (need 2 x 14mm open ended spanners)
    - Remove spring and spacers
    - Pry dust seal off carefully
    - Remove circlip
    - Compress fork
    - Fill with cheap clean engine oil (any grade)
    - Fit fork cap
    - Compress fork with a press of some sort (I had mine in a door way and used a car scissor jack)
    - Seal will pop out slowly
    - Once it's sticking out a bit, stop compressing the fork or it's going to get messy!
    - Pry seal out
    - Drain oil as completely as possible
    - Cycle the fork through its travel to force all the oil out
    - Clean everything
    - Apply grease to new seal (inside surfaces and a little on the outside)
    - Gently slide new seal on
    - Using the old seal, put it on upside down so the top sides of the seals are against each other
    - Tap the old seal with a soft mallet to seat the new seal
    - Remove old seal
    - Fit the circlip
    - Fit the dust seal
    - Slowly fill the fork with the specified amount of oil
    - Use a straw to gauge the oil depth
    - Cycle the fork repeatedly
    - Let it sit for a bit
    - Cycle the fork again to force air out
    - Top up the oil
    - Repeat until satisfied it is the right amount
    - Fit spring and spacers
    - Fit fork cap
    - Repeat for other fork
    - Fit forks
    - Fit wheel and brakes
    - Fit clip ons
    - Fit upper fairing
    - Test brakes
    - Test suspension
    - Done!
  2. hi nam....if you undo the bolt on the bottom of the fork leg in the centre you dont need to take the top apart....you will have it done in about 10 minutes that way
  3. Good tips there dude, I've never had to do fork seals before so I'll stash this away for later use...
  4. you're right troy, but that cap screw is loctited and can be a pita to undo! it also means the bushes may drop out. if you're going a proper front end rebuild, then that's the only way to do it right. but i just wanted to change the seals and replace the oil. it's possible to change the seals without removing the spring but its hard to tell how much new oil to add. the top cap is easy to undo if you wind out the knob on the top (not sure if it's compression or preload adjuster). once that is fully wound out, the top cap won't spin and you can use two spanners to undo the cap from the damper rod. great learning experience. loz if you ever need a hand with it, just give me a yell. it is much cheaper than getting a shop to do it.