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Fork disassembly tool for an across.

Discussion in 'Technical and Troubleshooting Torque' started by Motobike_Mike, Dec 4, 2008.

  1. Well, one of my fork seals has been buggered for a while, and Ive decided its time to change it, but I cant get the fork apart. The manual says to use the genuine suzuki ripoff tool, but I'd rather get something cheaper. Does anyone know what I would need to use, or if there is an alternative way of taking the forks apart?

  2. Not sure what part you are having trouble with but if i recall from last time i did the seal on my bike.

    unscrew the cap at the top of the fork.
    take forks out.
    get a Solid metal pole that is sharpened at one end straight to the center of the fork to hold the stanchon.
    then undo bolt at the bottom.

    forks comes apart. replace whatever put it back together.
  3. Genuine suzuki tool for which bit?

    I've done handbag forks before and I don't remember there being an issue.

    I can't remember if it's a cartridge fork or not... Take a look up through the bottom of the fork boot and see if there's a hex bolt to be undone up there. That's what holds the cartridge in.

    You might find it easiest to undo that bolt if you put the spring back in and close the cap. The spring puts downward pressure on the cartridge and stops it from rotating as you try to undo that hex bolt. That bolt can be a bit of a f*cker, and because it's so deep in the fork boot you have to use the long end of your hex key and maybe use a spanner or small tube to get more leverage on the end. Keep at it.

    Once that's out, pry the dust cover off the fork seal and slide that off, then get the retaining clip out, then basically just yank the tube and the boot apart.
  4. Whoops, I should have been a little more specific. I cant get the damper rod bolt out (the hex head bolt at the bottom of the fork). Ive tried keeping the caps on, but I can hear the spring turning around inside the fork. The tool is meant to go down the top of the fork and hold the damper rod still so that it doesnt spin, I'd just like to find out what kind of head the tool has.
  5. You don't need to dismantle anything. The seal will come out, and slide up the tube.
  6. like i said dude a solid metal pole down the center of the fork leg to hold everyything in place while u turn that bolt.

    Or an impact wrench if u got one.
  7. I had a similar issue on a 10 year old set of forks that had never been disassembled. Not a Handbag, but on another 250. I ended up welding two 24mm nuts on a length of tube. Worked perfectly.
  8. Long T bar hex 5mm if my memory serve's me it could be a 6mm..( its been awhile) Too make you need a hex t bar or L key the right size and a extension bar for a speed bore / spade drill you may need 2 .Cut the hex so the bit is strait and as long as posible (can use a hex bit for a drill but you can come up short ..)put it together and bobs ya uncle..
    the other way is to get as many 1/4in extention bars as needed put them together and tape them so the stay together and use a hex socket bit to suit ..
  9. Well, I have up and gave the forks to a mechanic. He took about 2 mins with a rattlegun to get both forks apart. I tried all the tips I got from you guys, but I guess sometimes you just gotta go to a mechanic (the guys at sydney motorcycle wreckers charged $5)
    Now I feel like kicking the guys @r$3 who sold me the bike, the forks havnt been serviced in AGES (oil was black) and everything was jammed.

    For anyone that might want to know in future, a 24mm hex head would fit into the damper rod. I just suggest going to a professional.