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Footrests & ABS Plastic Repairs

Discussion in 'Maintenance and Servicing' at netrider.net.au started by dbrain, Dec 8, 2014.

  1. Hey!

    Hope I'm in the right spot. I'm really new to riding, well it's been 3 days at the moment and I've already managed to drop it a few times. Mostly without any damage (short of minor scratches) until today. I'm struggling getting the hang of U-Turns :(

    Anyway, this time I've managed to bend and partially crack the right hand front foot rest / foot peg.
    I was going to purchase a new one and replace it before I ride it seriously (stuck in a court fiddling at the moment). I've seen the part around cheap enough, genuine and not (<$80), but I was wondering if anyone had any experience switching front footrests?

    Will this require specialised tools / some high skill level, or should it be easy enough to pull off myself?
    I'm highly skilled at twisting things (read: screw driver, wrench), but have not played with anything mechanic-y at all. A quick glance before I had to leave where my bike is stored and it seemed the peg was held in with a rounded bolt?

    Another one, although I think I'm mostly OK. I managed to pick the bike up holding on to rear plastic fairing.. and managed to snap the connector between it and the screw holding it in.
    This is ABS plastic. Does anyone have any recommendations on glue / cement you can get in Australia?
    I've seen a bit online, but it's mostly from the US. The break is "ok", in that it fits together without big missing chunks, but there's a tiny gap so I would need something to fill this / bond. It's not visible (under seat) so it can be ugly.

  2. Hi dbrain,
    From my workshop manual for the street triple R, I'm assuming the 660 is similar. The rounded bolt is actually a pin that is retained with a cir-clip which is located under the footrest. There is also a spring in there which applies some force to help the footrest return if it is lifted.

    As for the plastics, seeing as your bike must be pretty new? I'd go buy a replacement, but that's just me.

    • Agree Agree x 1
    • Informative Informative x 1
  3. #3 raging, Dec 8, 2014
    Last edited by a moderator: Dec 9, 2014
    There will be a clip holding the bolt/rod from sliding out. Remove clip (small screw driver), these can be fragile, so take it easy. Take note of the position of the spring (or just look at the other peg etc). Remove bolt. Flatten clip. Repeat backwards. unfortunately not must twisting.

    I tried a few glues for ABS plastic (even plastic specific ones) when my rear hugger cracked. Nothing seemed to work for me, so I gave up.

    I'd do the same, maybe wait a little bit until the frequency of the drops reduces
    • Informative Informative x 1
  4. #4 dbrain, Dec 8, 2014
    Last edited by a moderator: Dec 9, 2014
    Ah, great. I'm not entirely sure what a cir-clip is, but I'm sure google will help / it will be obvious given the description. Thanks! I was sure it should be simple, just couldn't see anything obvious from a quick glance.

    Ah, agreed, and I will at a later date when I feel I'm done breaking things. But figure for now the plastic is mostly for show, and it's literally broken just before the screw point under the seat. I couldn't tell anything was broken until I popped the seat, thought I just knocked it out of place.
    Some proper glue/solvent and it's clip should hold it for now.
    Turns out the "bit of plastic" is $200 or so to replace :(

    Awesome, thanks for detailed instructions. Will head down to Peter Stevens tomorrow and see how much they want for a replacement.
    Will probably just stick with good old bendy until I'm done bashing the poor thing up. Just need to avoid standing on it.

    Ah right, thanks. I might go to the hardware shop at lunch tomorrow and try my luck. Online a lot of people seemed to do well with some specific ABS cement or even just acetone. Just can't seem to find equivalents to what they were suggesting (all US brands).
    Trying to avoid replacing anything non vital until I feel confident riding.
  5. I'm feeling really sorry for your poor Streety! Maybe buy it some Oggy Knobs for Christmas?
    • Agree Agree x 2
  6. Same :( So far I haven't scratched anything all that noticeable or hard to replace, which is lucky.
    Oggy Knobs or an equivalent on my shopping list for today. Looking online they want $279 for knobs to fit a Street Triple? Ouch. I saw Evotech equivalents for ~$180.

    I want to get my U-Turns down. Problem is the court I'm playing around is is all hilly, so it needs more / less power to get around, all of the training bits and pieces I've done have been on flat basketball court style areas. That and I'm probably freaking and front braking if I come in too hot. I'm sure I'll get the hang of it, just frustrating I'm bashing the poor thing up to get there.
  7. And as for U-turns, turn your head as soon you start turning even just before, feather your clutch and use your rear brake. I was struggling to with this but the key is turning your head as far as you can to look where you want to go, well at least that worked for me.
    • Informative Informative x 1
  8. #8 dbrain, Dec 9, 2014
    Last edited by a moderator: Dec 9, 2014
    Thanks for the tips, not turning my head (enough) is probably a big part of it. I've been catching myself out looking at the turn rather than where I want to go, just need to drill it into my head somehow.

    Just bought these: http://www.hurtlegear.com.au/triumph-street-triple-2013-onwards-crash-bobbins/ and the matching fork protectors.
    Will wait until they show up before riding again (next couple of days). Hopefully they do the job. The oggy version was $100 more for some reason.
  9. You may have some luck with Q-Bond, which you can get from Repco. You pour a powder into the gap, then drip a glue-like substance onto it. It the smokes a little (as I recall) and is done in short order. I recommend a bike of masking tape on one side and the ends (sticking up, to act as a wall keeping the powder in and filling things fully), as that will make the end result a little neater and help a bit with holding things together while you mess around.
    • Informative Informative x 1
  10. Ah, cool, thanks!
    Just called and got a price from Peter Stevens for a replacement rear panel. $336. I can order it online for around $220, but for non visible damage if I can repair it I think it'll do for now.
  11. Took your advice and went with Q-Bond (ordered from eBay), other people have recommended it as well (when searching Q-Bond ABS). Of course this was after spending $40 or so on various "plastic glues" and being a bit iffy after I got home.
    Will let you know how it goes. Thanks!