Okay, so everyone has their own riding style. There are as many body position styles out there as there are riders. Everyone does something a little bit different, and that's fine. I'm not here to tell anyone what's right or wrong. It should be noted that the following tips are more sports-bike centric, and quite possibly somewhat rider-height dependent, but should be capable to being applied by most people on most any standard bike (sports/naked). Employed properly will make your bike handle so nimbly that you'll think you're on a different bike if you weren't doing these things before. These suggestions are more intended to be used in complex tight corner sequences, or on bumpy roads. Open sweepers on smooth roads are all about maximising stability and much of the recent discussion in this section has more focused on that side of things. In this post I want to talk about how you can really make your sports bike dance. 1) Hunker-down on the bike - I mean really arch your back. Crouch over the tank but don't rest your weight on the tank. What this does is centralises the rider's weight much closer to the bike. When a bike changes direction, the rider has to change direction too. If the rider is sitting up high and proud the bike (and the tyres) have to work a lot harder to provide the force and energy to swing the rider from one lean angle to another. Best demonstration is to grab a broom. Hold it at the end of the handle with the head high in the air. Now swing the broom down to one side as if it were a rider leaning into a curve with a bike. Now try to swing it to the other side. It takes some effort. Now hold the broom midway down the handle and repeat. Much easier because the mass is more centralised to the axis of rotation. The rider crouching down has the same effect on the bike's handling. 2) Get your elbows down low - I mean right down. Beside the tank to either side. Not above the tank, not across the tank if you like to hang off, but right down beside the tank. Ideally you want your elbows to even be a bit lower than your wrists. Coupled with hunkering down this should be easy to do, and is a good indication that you're hunkering down properly. What this does here is maximises the counter-steering inputs that you provide. When your elbows are above your wrists most of your counter-steering inputs actually do very little as most of the force is directed down towards the front wheel, rather than flat and out towards the front of the bike. Done properly, this will almost halve the effort required to counter-steer, or alternately if you use the same effort, will counter-steer the bike twice as quickly. 3) Grip the bars wide - This maximises the counter-steering leverage on the bars. It also makes it a bit easier to get the elbows down beside the tank if your bike's tank is fat. How wide? We're talking about having the outside of your palms on the bar ends wide. It's for this reason that I don't like aftermarket "shorty" levers. You can't get a wide grip on the bars and still reach the brake/clutch easily. Coupled with getting the elbows down and the added leverage that provides, counter-steering a bike at speed will become incredibly easy. 4) Carry all your weight on the pegs on the balls of your feet - Your butt should only be lightly touching the seat but the bike should be able to freely move side-to-side underneath it. This requires good quadricep strength in the legs to do for an extended period. If you want to specifically exercise for it then takes the stairs instead of the elevator/escalator whenever you're out shopping, or do standing static squats or walk up steep inclines. What this does is decouple the rider's weight from high up on the bike, and couples it far more closely to the axis of rotation when leaning. The bike will barely have to do any work at all to shift the rider's weight in the first part of a direction change as the bike will just shift under the rider. Eventually the rider has to follow with the bike, but by now the bike has developed some momentum in its progress to change direction and coupled with crouching low the bike will carry the rider over easily. This lessens the initial counter-steering effort even further to the point that you can make the bike zig-zag all over the ride while cranked over hard negotating a tight corner if you so choose. A practical example. Today I went riding on a local road that had debris all over it from recent high winds. We're talking twigs, stringy bark, broken branches, chunks of rotten wood, leaves and so on. Despite these conditions, using the above tips to facilitate the bike's nimbleness to change direction, I could lean the bike right to the edge of the tyres through the corners, and yet be dancing the bike about to zig-zag around all the debris. Just gentle flicks of the bar, with the rider pretty much staying static but the bike responding effortlessly to the steering inputs and dancing all around the crap on the road rather than riding through it anchored to a fixed arc. To the more experienced riders on the forum the above is likely just stating the bleeding obvious. I just thought to offer it up here given today's experience with threading the needle with a motorbike on the road I was on, and how effortless and fun it was despite the utterly atrocious conditions.