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Fitting Tyres

Discussion in 'Technical and Troubleshooting Torque' at netrider.net.au started by PatB, Jun 20, 2010.

  1. Well, this morning I decided that the front hoop on the DR was too worn to last any longer. The factory fitted Bridgestone Trailwing had plenty of knobbles, but, due to the scalloped wear pattern, it was down beyond the tread grooves in places at 18,600km.

    So it was off with the old and on with the unworn Ebay Special that I picked up a year or so ago and whose counterpart has been doing duty on the back for several months.

    Lack of a centrestand meant I had to get creative with jacks, stands and blocks of wood to get the front end off the ground and stable. I was fairly impressed with how easily the wheel dropped out, although putting it back in could have done with three hands to get the disc into the caliper while keeping the speedo drive and axle spacer in place while inserting the spindle.

    The old tyre came off without problems, the beads breaking with hand pressure alone. I was unimpressed to see rust around the base of the valve stem where it joins the tube. Use of a newly purchased set of rim protectors saved me from skagging the nice ally rim.

    Putting the new tyre on was greatly eased by using generous helpings of talcum powder on the beads and rim. Much less messy than soap. Well, not less messy really, but drier and easier to clean up. I highly recommend it, as it allowed me to walk the tyre on with almost no effort.

    Last time I put a tyre on, I had difficulty getting the beads to seat. This time I decided not to muck about and pulled the valve core before hooking the tyre to my big compressor and whacking it straight up to 50psi. Thanks to the talc and the fast rate of inflation it only took a couple of goes before the beads popped out against the rim, giving me a nice concentric tyre.

    Slap the wheel back in, a quick test ride to check for any out of round or balance issues and to scrub off the excess talc and we're done and dusted in less than an hour. Very satisfying.
  2. do the dr's have a safety bead aswell?
  3. Do you mean a rim-lock? If so, no. That's for hardcore offroaders or big, lairy old superbikes like XS1100s.

    If you mean the little lip on the rim that sits behind the tyre bead like car wheels are required to have, that's also a no, for the front at least. Not that I noticed anyway. I can't remember about the back, although I did need to use a vice to break the beads on the back and had terrible trouble getting the new tyre seated, although I was more stingy with the lube and more cautious with the pressure on that occasion, so it doesn't necessarily mean the rim itself was any different. Also, in my experience, the smaller the diameter, the harder the tyre is to get into place, all other things being equal.
  4. nah not a rim lock, like the thing car tyres have. i thought they may have had one on the rear, can't remember but like you i had heaps of trouble to break the bead. i dropped a 2 post hoist on mine haha the tyre was ruined anyway.
  5. Pretty sure it's only motard rims that have the safety bead. I got a bit of a surprise the first time I changed tyres on my 'tard -didn't expect them to have the safety bead. No other dirt bike rim I've come across has them in my experience.
    I have a highly sophisticated solution to popping the bead. A 4 foot length of pipe, and a foot long piece of timber. Lay the wheel on the grass about a foot behind the towbar of your car, stand the wood on the edge of the tyre, put the pipe under the towbar and over the top of the wood, press down and you're done. Works every single time for me:) Road/Sport tyres are a piece of piss 'cause the carcase is so thin and soft.