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Fitted an auto chain oiler

Discussion in 'Modifications and Projects' started by Pjcliffo, Jan 21, 2015.

  1. image. Fitted a Tutoro auto chain oiler to my street triple. Fitting went well, neat install doesn't need vacuum or electrical connection. Seems to be working ok. I have to keep an eye on it and adjust to suitable level. Don't need to turn on or off, just refill occasionally.


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  2. It has a dual feed one to each side of the sprocket
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  3. That's pretty cool. Are their many alternatives as fair as chain oil goes? Don't think I've ever seen chain oil that isn't in a spray can (that being said I've never really looked).
    I was looking at these, until I saw the price anyway, after M13 was ranting about them on one of his videos.
  4. Most of these auto-oilers come with their own proprietary brand of oil but I think a lot of people just start refilling with cheap motor oil after a while (you might need to adjust the flow rate for the different viscosity).

    The idea with these oils is a bit different to spray lube. With spray lube, it's meant to adhere to the chain and lubricate it until you clean it off and reapply. With these things, the oil is meant to fling off after a while and take the dirt with it, hence the need to refill the reservoir.

    I've been meaning to get a Scottoiler vacuum system for a while but it's one of those things that I never get around to, which is weird because I hate cleaning the chain (especially on the Ducati, where you can only get to 6 links at a time).
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  5. I bought it new on gumtree 100$ someone changed their mind, said they couldn't find a spot for it.
    There are alternatives for the oil. I am using some Ryobi chain saw oil I happened to have. It doesn't seem to use much.
  6. How does the plastic feel on the Tutoro? Do you think it might melt sitting next to a cat converter?
  7. It is well made but it is plastic. I would keep it away from exhausts. It's easy to mount so there are lots of alternative places.
  8. The oils supplied with at least some of the systems is organic, biodegradable stuff, which is worth considering since you're flinging more of it around.
  9. Avoid chain saw bar oil - It's gooey crap to get off once it's set a bit. Engine oil is the best. Easiest to clean up the "spatter" with.
  10. Hope that the chain guard catches most of the oil that flings off...

    I once lubed the chain with motor oil - after a brief ride everything was covered in tiny black dots including the back of my jacket. There was no chain guard though
  11. The amount that flings off would be less than 1-2 drops per minute riding which is pretty small.
  12. 1 or 2 drops a minute? That's heaps!
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  13. I think there is some misconception about how chain oilers actually work. While the oil is delivered to the rear sprocket, and reaches the chain by the centrifugal force generated by going around the rear sprocket. It is actually at the drive sprocket end where much of the effective lubrication occurs. Here, where the drive sprocket makes the chain turn around a much smaller radius; there is a not inconsiderable amount of atomisation happening. This area, at highway speeds, contains a mist of oil which wets all of the chain. This is more effective in "closed" guards. (ie, not with slots in them - I'm not taking about a totally enclosed chain case) Trail bikes with their slotted drive shaft covers would require more oil for this reason.

    You are over-oiling if much oil drips from this area (the bottom of the drive sprocket cover) You are under oiling if you don't get any drips from anywhere, and it is normal for the chain guard to drip occasionally at the rear and for the guard to get dirty on top due to dust or for a little dirty oil to run down the chain guard stay to the swing arm. Again this can be reduced by wicking back the supply. You'd be surprised how little oil can be used. Your O-rings and rollers should look clean. I over-oil deliberately and 1000 kays will see me use less than 50 ml. Constant highway travel in clean, dry conditions can use half that. I think one or two drops a minute considering the time it takes to travel that far is a LOT of oil. If your rear tyre is looking oil contaminated, you are applying WAY too much oil. This should never be an issue.

    What you are actually achieving with an automatic oiler is keeping the chain/sprocket interface lubricated - less wear on the sprockets, less wear on the chain, getting rid of dirt continuously, and keeping the O-rings moist and free of contamination.

    I applaud your decision to go with an oiler, Pjcliffo. You will never look back. I have a Scottoiler fitted to one bike, and a Pro-Oiler on another. Anybody who runs a chain driven bike, and does enough kays so they can see the day when they might replace the chain/sprocket set, or gets fed up with the clean/re-lubricate cycle, frequent chain adjustment (a result of wear). Think about this - my chain adjustment interval resembles oil change intervals (6K) and are tiny - Typically 1 flat, occasionally almost, but never quite 2. (1 Flat = 1/6 of a rotation of the adjustment bolt). I wonder how many kays the chain/sprocket set will last at that rate. - a good long while, I think.

    There are quite a few chain oilers out there. Some pretty chunky, others quite sophisticated. Owners should do themselves a favour and look into this area thoroughly before buying.
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  14. I've been thinking about building an el-cheapo automatic oiler and there is a question I can seem to find an answer to. What is a good size reservoir to have?
  15. Road bike? I would think 150 ml would be heaps. Trail bikes' systems can be a lot less refined, and would need a larger reservoir.

    Interesting little project. Are you looking at gravity feed or pump? Actuation method? (I'd not be a fan of continuous drip) It's useful to have some sort of adjustment, if only to "dial it in" to a rate that you can live with. I would think it would be worth the dosh to purchase the delivery tube or tubes or yoke from one of the manufacturers to take the fiddle out of the actual placement of the oil.

    There is no reason why someone couldn't make one up. Let us know how you go.
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  16. A road bike, I'm thinking cheap and basic, gravity feed with a solenoid and small valve to adjust flow. I'm thinking silicone hose and copper tube for delivery. I feel like bending the copper will make it easy enough to put the oil where I want it.
  17. Have a Scottoiler on my SV650. Worked so well, decided to get a "better" (electronic) version - Pro-Oiler, on my Z750. I think that may have been overkill, sure I could electronically adjust flow on handlebar mounted controls, and it had a fancy twin-nozzle, but it cost a bit more, and I had to pay a mechanic to install it (too complicated for this simpleton).

    Sold the Z, bought a SV1k, and fitted a new Scottoiler meself.

    Sold the SV1k, got a MT-09 ... been procrastinating about getting another Scottoiler.
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  18. Overkill? I don't think so. The difference in price is comparable to a couple of cartons of nice beer. Comparing fitting an electronic cruise control at $1000 round about, compared to a mechanical throttle lock (Sub $100) to give your right hand some respite on trips. That's overkill.

    Depends on how much you like nice beer, I suppose.

    I must say the installation of a Pro-oiler takes some getting one's head around. Particularly the programming (or checking) of the computer. I have a lot of admiration for the designers to get all that into a useable programming interface that only displays 1 character. It could be an expensive installation to give it to a mechanic who has to figure it all out for the first time and charge you for his time, whitenight. Entirely different if he's done a few. Otherwise, it's like, "WTF has this dude sprung on me? Oh well, he's paying for it."