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First Problem With the DR

Discussion in 'Technical and Troubleshooting Torque' started by PatB, Jul 17, 2012.

  1. Well, with 55,000 kms up, it looks like the DR has decided to show its age by trashing its cyinder base gasket. Earlier bikes apparently did this quite frequently, but internet wisdom had convinced me that it was no longer a problem by the 2008 model year.

    The amount of oil seepage around the bottom of the barrel has got to the point where I can no longer kid myself it's the (easily fixed) camchain tensioner housing. Time to start making plans to take the top end off to replace the gasket.

    Of course, if I'm lifting the lid anyway, it's awfully tempting to put it back together with a ProCycle high-comp piston and stage 2 cam inside...................
  2. Lumpy cam without attention to the gas passages????
  3. Eyeballing them, they're massively oversized already for the 35 odd bhp the stock engine puts out. A bit of a smooth and polish wouldn't hurt but I don't see much benefit in any major surgery. Not without going to big valves anyway, but that's beyond both the time and financial budgets right now.
  4. Hi PatB,

    If it is not the Cam chain Tensioner gasket (common issue), replacing the cylinder base gasket is not that big a task. Being a 2008 model it will already have the 'metal' base gasket (which you will be able to see at the front of the cylinder head above the oilfilter to the right, a tab will be sticking out).

    I replaced my piston (2008 DR650) with the JE High compression piston (from procycle.us), without touching the cam, seems to running great without any problems after adding 10,000km to the bike. Seems to have a lot more torque.

    Remember: to take photo's as you go, and measure the cylinder head bolts and note where they came from... as the manual is incorrect regarding these bolts (if you follow the manual, you will find that you will not be able to fit the cylinder back on)

    Any problems, just PM me as I still have all the photo's / measurements here somewhere.

  5. Thanks for the info. I'm a reasonably experienced amateur mechanic but it's always useful to hear from someone who's actuially done an unfamiliar job. The heads up on the head bolts is particularly useful.

    I'm not in a major hurry to do the job. The leak isn't a gusher at the moment, just a bit messy so, given my leak strewn background with 60s cars, I can afford to procrastinate a bit longer as long as I keep an eye on the oil level.

    Interesting comment about the piston. Given the price of the cam, I might go with the piston only and see what happens. Did you find you needed PULP or is it still OK on regular? And did you need to rejet?
  6. I still have the stock Mikuni BST-40 carb on the bike, so I just drilled the slide for quicker throttle response, especially on decelleration, and raise the needle 1 clip position to make it a bit richer.

    I run either 95 or 98 octane most of the time, unless in a remote area... then just use the local go juice. and use a 15/44 sprocket combo, which seems perfect for the riding I do.

    plenty can be done to the DR, main thing to check is the NSU screws, behind the clutch plates are tight, I just used locktite on them, but others wire them in place. And remove the upper chain roller, before it is torn out of the frame... although, I'd reckon a bike like yours with 55k on it, would have already lost it by now.
  7. Nup. Still on there, rattling away like a good 'un. I put it down to the Scottoiler allowing me to hold the chain tension where it should be for most of the bike's life so it doesn't make contact that often.
  8. I would still ditch that upper chain roller to be safe.
    Running a bead of gasket sealant along the offending edge may help stem the oil weep, a few blokes on adventure rider have done this on the older DR's with some success.
  9. Update.

    Maybe it wasn't the base gasket after all. I just did the 55,000 km service (oil change anyway, the rest can wait until next weekend) and took the opportunity to renew the cam-chain tensioner gasket and the crush washers in the banjo unions on the return oil line from the head.

    Bloody hell, what do Suzuki stick their gaskets on with? :shock: Took me half an hour of careful scraping (with limited access without removing the exhaust) to get the thing off.

    Anyway, all bolted up again with a new gasket and a smear of my favourite Hylomar and the mess cleaned off so I can monitor any new leaks.

    I've just had a careful look after the usual 45 km ride to work and I can't see any oozage from any of the potential leak points so maybe I was a bit premature in crying doom :D.