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Fact Or Fiction? - Odometer Tampering Indicators.

Discussion in 'General Motorcycling Discussion' started by gs250rr, Nov 20, 2012.

  1. I am a little keen on buying a CBR250RR and due to the below statement, I have ignored a majority of those on sale. Just wondering if the argument holds water.

    If the numbers of the odometer are not aligned completely then it means that the odometer has been wound-back or tampered with - so effectively a bike claiming 20,000 kms may actually be 120,000kms etc..

    Fact or Fiction?

    • Like Like x 1
  2. Interesting theory, would be interested to see what others have to say but its the first time i have heard of this, i just assume all the greys are wound back,
  3. This used to be one of the ways of telling a clocked bike because it was wound back, but these days most "clockers" use a power drill to wind the clock forward so that it clicks over to 0 and onto whatever mileage they want. I wouldn't trust an odo that didn't have aligned numbers.
  4. Thanks for your input netriders.

    Scores so far - Fact (1) - Fiction (1)

    * Unconnected - I didn't count your vote since it seems your decision is not based on odometer. Let me know if otherwise.
  5. When buying second hand bike the overall condition of the bike and any maintenance records are a better indication than the odometer of whether it's a good buy or not.
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  6. thanks mate, but I was just wondering if all things remain equal then is this argument valid?
  7. Mick's comments above are a better way of telling if a bike is genuine. Also check out the owner, does he/she look like they can afford to take care of the bike maintenance, if they say they do their own maint do they have a clean, well equipped work area.
    Expensive bike parked out front of a fibro is more likely to be iffy. Expensive bike in a heated garage is more likely to be genuine. Examples are deliberately extreme to demonstrate the point.
  8. Why wouldn't it be?

    If the bike is in good condition, has been well maintained and is a reasonable price what does it matter?

    If you were comparing 2 almost identical bikes and this was the only difference, and one had and obviously considerably lower odometer, then maybe I'd think about it. But the over riding consideration is the condition and maintenance history.
  9. Oi, I take exception to that. My house, that I (or at least the bank) owns is fibro and I own...... oh wait.......yeah I see your point.
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    • Funny Funny x 1
  10. ok cool - I get your point is to go out and test ride the bikes rather than dismissing them on the web browser based on their odometer.
  11. Exactly. And if you don't know much about bikes or mechanics, take someone with you who does, or arrange to have a trusted mechanic (not the one at the shop selling the bike) give it the once over.
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  12. Winding an odometer forward rapidly with a drill can lead to misaligned numbers, though if it clocks over naturally they may well still line up perfectly (as per Phongus's recent thread about his Across ticking over 100k). Of course you can always just dismantle a speedo and set the numbers to say whatever you want, or just use the speedo off another bike.

    If you're looking at grey import CBR250RRs then odometer reading is completely irrelevant. Chances are it doesn't even have the original engine in it anyway, since it wasn't exactly uncommon for grey imports to be assembled from the best bits of two or more wrecks from Japan. Given the age of these bikes even if something did have a genuine 20k on it it'd still have problems as a result of having quite likely spent a long time just sitting around and not being ridden.

    Anything you buy is likely to cost more than the purchase price. So just buy the cheapest one you can that doesn't appear to have any major faults with it and get ready to fix/replace the things that will inevitably go wrong, ideally before they leave you stranded on the side of the road (or worse).
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  13. Sorry, I missed that you were looking at grey imports.

    That changes everything. I have one simple rule when it comes to grey imports "DO NOT BUY ONE".

    There are a number of reasons for this the main 2 are.

    They are not supported by the local official distributor of that brand.
    A lot of bike shops won't touch them except to do basic stuff.
  14. Correction - Not specifically CBR250RR (grey imports) but mainly considering the one's imported by Honda and assembled locally - for example -> "this one"
  15. #16 jd, Nov 20, 2012
    Last edited: Nov 20, 2012
    That's either a grey, or it's been resprayed at some point. The CBR sticker on the fairing is in the wrong spot, the "B" should be above that scoop like in this official Honda pic:
    Compared with:

    This is why you need to closely inspect any used bike, rather than putting too much faith in the seller's description.

    Edit: The fact they've fitted adjustable levers and an aftermarket exhaust suggests it's been crashed at some point and there's always the possibility that not all of the damage has been repaired no matter how shiny the paint is.
    • Like Like x 4

  16. thats quite an accurate observation above "jd"! *clapping*

    Looks like if I am to still hold on to my guns and to continue to look for a CBR250RR then my best bet is to bring someone along who has the know-how .. rather than making up my own theories :eek:
  17. I thought you'd already agreed that was best course of action.....
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  18. Yep, you definitely need someone who knows bikes or to find somewhere you can pay to inspect it for you. What might feel fine to you to ride could well have suspension that's actually completely shot, warped brake rotors, etc. I bought a grey import as my first bike, and although it served me well for many years and something like 40-50,000kms it did come with no oil in the front forks and a rear brake pad that was down to the steel backing plate (and both of these things got through a RW inspection).

    No matter how good the bike looks I'd still recommend changing all of the fluids as soon as you get it; coolant, engine oil+filter, fork oil and brake fluid (the last two being one of the most neglected things on a 250). I'd also put serious consideration into replacing the brake lines and other rubber components which, if original, are likely to fail at any time (so things like radiator hoses, fuel lines, and fork seals). Then of course you also need to check wear/consumable items like spark plugs, brake pads/rotors, air filter, etc., as well as checking the more important nuts and bolts are all where they should be and done up properly (bolts can and do work loose on old bikes, I lost a gearshift mechanism as a result of that once).

    Not trying to scare you off, but these bikes are reaching the age where if someone doesn't put a bit of effort into bringing them up to a decent standard then it's only a matter of time before they blow up or fall apart in a big way.
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  19. CBR250 is the most overated bike ever....
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