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engine run in.

Discussion in 'Showcase' at netrider.net.au started by murchy, Jul 14, 2011.

  1. So I know this is a highly debated topic, and I don't want to start a flame war, but I just picked up my brand new bike and am after some thoughts from both schools of thought.

    So far I'm leaning towards the recommended approach of sticking to low rpm for the first 500km, then pushing it up by 2-3k rpm every 500km after that.


     
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  2. Ride it hard. Load the rings ala the "Motoman" technique.

    Let me know if it works.
     
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  3. Google moto tune usa.

    Edit: SNAP! MV's too fast!
     
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  4. haha, thanks guys.
    not really too reassuring though MV with the whole 'let me know if it works' >.<

    really after some advice from people who have tried multiple approaches and have seen the results for themselves.
     
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  5. Been talking to my wife again Rob? :)

    I haven't used the technique murchy, but I will when I do my top end rebuild, I'm sure people who have/haven't used the technique will be along soon...
     
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  6. it wouldnt let me post just ':D'
     
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  7. My theory. Theories on running in are like assholes. Everyone has one.

    Engines essentially are pretty well run in out of the factory these days. Ride it like you normally would but avoid long durations at a single RPM. I like to run in with a casual ride through your favourite twisties, because you're using lots of different gears/throttle application, varied RPM, putting some wear on your brakes and tires and having a bit of fun doing it.

    I tend to stay away from the top 1/3 of the rev band at least until the first service.

    My 2c.

    Let the flame wars begin!

    /me dons the Tinfoil hat and flame resistant overalls.
     
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  8. I came across another blokes approach, described on his website, which was similar to motoman's, something like low revs for the first 15minutes or something, then park and let the bike cool down, then a varying load ride, then park and let the bike cool down, then a balls out top of rev range ride and an oil change or some such... he goes into detail... can't recall the site though.

    Apparently the owner manual's running in guidelines relate to older technology/production engine tolerances. The new engines with tighter tolerances benefit from a "ride them hard out of the box" type approach - well according to motoman at least.
     
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  9. Similar to above. I bought my new bike about 11 weeks ago and did this same thing. Use it like normal BUT avoid a freeway rides for a long stretch of time (say more than 15-10 kms at a stretch) as the RPM is constant then. First 1000-1200 KMs usage needs varying speeds but not too much RPM. (The Yamaha manual says the same thing as well).

    My 2c as well. :)
     
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  10. Thanks for the awesome input so far guys, I think I'll end up at a middle ground between the religious rpm watching and normal riding minus excessive rpm.

    Special thanks for the advice regarding freeway driving, since I was actually planning to do a trip from Melbourne and up north to Kilmore-ish this Friday early evening, I'll have to rethink my route to incorporate some back roads and detours. At least I have a valid reason for extending the ride now!
     
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  11. This is also of interest to me as I will be upgrading to a new new bike soon. (As apposed to a new-for-me bike)

    I have heard the same thing about modern cars and EFI engines - added to the "no need to warm up" to allow journals to flow, oil to warm (and pressure to build) etc. I tend to agree with the warm up scenario (although I wouldn't like to start a car or bike on a cold morning and open the taps) - but a new engine without restraining oneself?
     
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  12. I agree. I personally would never give a new motor the beans straight off despite there being some potential evidence that it seats rings better.

    I'm a supporter of doing things gradually over time.
     
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  13. Sounds good. I've done the same from day 1 and for the first few hundred km's I could feel the 'newness' of the engine. I would go on the freeway for a few minutes and then take the normal route to work.

    It has helped me in the long run and now the bike purrs so smoothly that I cannot explain. After 5400 KMs in 11 weeks, I can tell the difference between the first 1000 and from then till now.

    This has worked for me and there's no harm in following this simple formula. Both the Sales Manager and the Service Center Manager advised me this but I would have done this anyway (I did this with my first bike as well). :D

    Agree.
     
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  14. Thanks Lazy Libran, glad to hear this approach has payed off for you.
     
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  15. I'm inclined to say the same, take it easy, build up the revs and riding 'hardness' over time.

    Motomans method describes how race engines are run in, I agree that it might give a few more horsepower and get the bike run in quicker, however I have doubts as to how long the engine and other components would last and how 'healthy' it is for the bike. His photographic evidence is dodgy as well.
    (this is just from my research and other mechanics opinions, I am by no means a mechanic or expert, my only experience is from running in a few engines).


    I am getting a new bike shortly as well, and there is no way I'm going to thrash my new baby out of the box, 1 because its unsafe for me on a bike im not familiar with, 2 because Im pretty sure the ceo of Honda or the engineers that designed it wouldn't be doing that with their new bikes either.


    One thing that almost everyone agrees with across the board is don't keep it in the same RPM range constantly (vary it by a thousand or so). Best way to do this is to work through the gears, which is also recommended by everyone.
     
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  16. Yup. It certainly has. (y)

    Couldn't have worded it better. Best way to do is ride in normal traffic where gear change & RPM variations work their way through automatically. Once the 1000-1200 KMs are over, then the baby is mature enough to be handled at higher speeds & RPMs. I actually broke it in till 1500 kms as the manual said 1000 miles (Just in case!). I know I was being over cautious but hey, I love my baby. :D
     
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  17. Just ride it as you normally would... don't labour it in too high a gear at low revs and no freeway riding at constant speeds. I have ran my last 2 new bikes in reasonably hard and both have been above the average power wise when dynoed, have used no oil between changes and reliability has been great too, 62,000k's before moving my last bike onto it's new owner.

    Manufacturers will take the safest least hassle route so what they tell you do do at break in will be VERY conservative. Others will tell you ride it like you stole it, I'm somewhat in the middle, use all the rev range, don't labour it, and no constant speed running on freeways. I ran my last bike in on the reefton and black spur and she never missed a beat, I have also heard of people who baby their new bikes and they use oil, are down on power etc...

    As I said I sit somewhat in the middle on this one
     
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  18. haha sound like rotary engines....
    if you baby them they have lots of problems (tuning/ecu related) and never run right (ask any of the rx8 guys, specially those who bought secondhand)
    but if you rev them too hard you wear seals...
    its all about getting it right
     
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  19. What does the owners manual say?.
     
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  20. Because all bike motors are different. I don't really worry about the revs.
    Basically keep it spinning along just into that sweet torque zone for the first 500 K's. Don't load it up. Use the gears to keep it running nicely.
    Then I will start using the revs on it, but still not loading it up.
    @ about 800k's I will give it a good flogging and dump the oil at a thou.
    That will also be when I do the ride height, rider sag and clicker flicker as well.
     
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