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Engine oil level indicator

Discussion in 'Bling and Appearance' started by proxemic, Nov 15, 2009.

  1. Hi Guys

    Bit of a noob question here, I was consulting my service manual which says to make sure the oil level is in between F and L (full and low i assume).

    Now should this reading be taken when the bike is level or when it is leaning on its stand?

    Thanks all.
  2. level *too bloooody short*
  3. engine to be warm, ideally after a ride. then park it, wait 2-3min and then position the bike level (off the stand) and check the oil. this is the procedure from my Yamaha owner's manual.

    i give my oil and coolant levels a check every 500-1000km. cheap insurance.
  4. I usually have a look at mine when it's level 5 min or so after I get off it. (Roughly the same as Sheppo's advice) Hard to tell what level is with no centre-stand though xD
  5. Yeah, it's hard to get it vertical and (at least with mine) the oil level varies a LOT with minor tilting. When I first checked it (with bike leaning on its stand) it looked to be below the LOW mark... then I read the manual (this was after I had bought a new bottle of oil) and saw that it was meant to be upright - all of a sudden it was full. :-|

  6. A neat trick I read somewhere for checking the oil level of a bike with no centre stand is to use a telescoping mirror sold for automotive work - that way you can check it whilst seated on the bike normally.

    Or get a race stand and check it when you lube your chain.
  7. Don't use a race stand. It will tilt your bike forwards and give you a false reading.
  8. What about a race stand front AND back?

    A couple weeks ago I noticed my oil light flashing for like a quarter of a second when I brake hard, figured it must be a bit low to surge like that.
    Also hadn't changed the oil in a while so I just bought new stuff.. 2L worth thinking that'll be way more than enough, and I can have some spare.
    Turns out it takes 1.9L without changing the filter (its a newish filter anyway) and theres nothing wrong with being just a wee bit overfull

    Also since blowing up 2 car engines from oil surge issues.. I'll be changing the bike's rather often, + a filter every 2nd time

    Also I'm not sure how much semi synthetic oil costs in stores, but I just took an old oil container to a performance engine builder and got 2L of 'racing' grade oil for $30. The guy reckons it costs him $10/L to buy it in huge drums.

  9. If the front stand lifts the bike the same height as the rear. The markers on the dipstick/sight glass are calibrated to the bike being level.

    I use fully synth oil and its around $12/L.

    I'd be cautious about using some of the racing oils. They will deteriorate fast.

  10. Thanks for the tip, I'll probably change it again including filter in january.
    I'm expecting to cover almost 2,000kms by then.

    Is there a reason why it would deteriorate faster, or is it just because its working better and pulls more crap off the engine walls than other stuff does?