Welcome to Netrider ... Connecting Riders!

Interested in talking motorbikes with a terrific community of riders?
Signup (it's quick and free) to join the discussions and access the full suite of tools and information that Netrider has to offer.

Engine break-in techniques

Discussion in 'Technical and Troubleshooting Torque' started by robbied, Nov 18, 2008.

  1. So I just got a new bike and my break in method in the last 170km's has been running it through the whole rev range frequently and purposefully.

    How did you folk break your engines in?
  2. I am pretty much following that article. Running it through all the revs to hopefully seal the piston rings properly.
  3. I follow whatever they state in the user manual that comes with the bike. Read many debates on this topic and the majority seam to agree that's the best protocol.
  4. thats been circling the net for a while now, its very interesting what he has to say on the matter. has anybody found any corroborating information on the subject?
  5. The Manufacturer has done all of the r+d, and field testing. If you think that you know more about it than them, then good luck to you , mate.
  6. It just says avoid full throttle start and rapid acceleration. P.g 77

    And the manual states 500km break in period.
  7. Yeah, thats about right.
  8. Only 500km?
  9. Depends on the bike I guess. For my WhoFlungDung they said 800km at 1/2 throttle max and the next 800km at 3/4 throttle max.

  10. A engine is truly run in after 500km of varied engine speed/load. I ran mine throughout the hole rev range not exceeding 10,000rpm. Never had any problems, runs like a dream, always strong.

    Just dont rev a cold motor, make sure its warmed up before doing a bit of full throttle action :grin:
  11. Let it warm up before taking off, then ride it however you like. Obviously don't hit the rev limiter, but don't be afraid of giving it some :)

    Worst thing you can do to the engine is under rev it I reckon (ie almost stalling, wrong gear, etc).

    I didn't thrash mine while running it in, but I definitely didn't "baby" it either. I ignored the "no rapid acceleration" suggestion...
  12. Thanks for the tips guys! My basic break in so far has been : ride it like a sportsbike is supposed to be ridden.

    Did you wait until the 1000km service interval to have the oil changed or did you change it earlier?
  13. Im waiting for the 1000k service (probably 2 weeks away now)

    But I have been checking the oil level every week.
  14. Oil is cheap insurance. change it regularly.
  15. It must be all of 6 weeks since we had a thread like this :roll:
    Follow the frigging book if the bike's a keeper.
  16. I understand your frustration 2wheelsagain. The reason I asked is because my first service is at 1000km's. Now I imagine there might be a decent amount of metal filings in the oil right about now. I could be wrong. Im trying to decide whether it will be beneficial or not to have an oil and filter change at this point.
  17. He he he he he he. I must admit I always have a chuckle reading all the indignant replies about carefully running in a new engine by nursing it and keeping below certain revs for a long and happy life yadda yadda yadda. I suggest you go on a tour through your local automotive engine manufacturer and watch the treatment the brand new engines receive on the test bed. Start, idle for a few seconds, then full power right to redline :LOL: :LOL: :LOL: :LOL:
    I can only imagine how much the engineers must pis their pants laughing when they reccomend the fancy running in technique for the owners manual :LOL: :LOL: :LOL: :LOL:
  18. Having been through the old ecotech engine facility at Fishermans bend a few years ago I can only concur. Even the oil used was salvaged from the US V8's imported.

    As for the motoman running in procedure, I was first exposed to this working with John Bennett (of HeadMod fame for those of you old enough, who remembers Alan Moffats Coke/Brut33 sponsored Mustang that brought him to fame?) 30 years ago. It was the procedure he has always used on the racing engines (in fact all engines)he built. He was also very scientific with his theories and had designed and documented procedures and test results that verify the claim. Reading the motoman site some 25 years later it was like Deja vu.

    Be sceptical if you wish but manufacturers have to balance cost against calamity (and hence likelyhood of warrantee claims) rather than optimisation of efficiency and output.
  19. Fair enough mate.
    Thats not what was posted in the OP :wink:
    Whats in the oil varies engine to engine.
    There was nothing to speak of in mine at 1000k but I have heard some horror stories.