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Engine braking and the back wheel

Discussion in 'New Riders and Riding Tips' started by es, Sep 24, 2005.

  1. I was wondering if engine braking can cause the back wheel to lock up, as it always makes the back feel weird (like it does when its about to lock).
    Am i just doing it wrong?

  2. It can happen if you gear down at too higher speed. If you let the clutch out gently and keep the revs up, it shouln't be a problem. Otherwise just slow down before gearing down and it wont be an issue. :)
  3. Just buy a bike with a slipper clutch :p :LOL: :LOL:
  4. Gearing down, easy to do. Just take it easy on clutch and balance the revs until the clutch is fully engaged.
    If you are just rolling off the throttle though, should not happen expect under very slippery conditions and generally at higher revs.
    Just remember quickest braking does not involve engine braking
  5. Sure, but it usually takes some doing.

    Well, before anyone can answer that, you need to tell us what, exactly, it is you're doing.
  6. I've got a few Honda stickers that might help but really thats just a stop gap solution until you buy a Honda. :D

    As IK said you'll have to spill the beans about your current practice before we can comment on where the fault might lie.
  7. I think releasing the clutch and gearing down too early at high revs will cause the rear wheel to lock up.
    Get the revs down a touch back off the throttle, gear down and release the clutch slowly.
    Just something you have to practise as in wet weather it can get you unstuck.
  8. True...unless you are riding a long stroke, large displacement single like say...oh an SR500? On a wet road a bike like this can embarrass you quite quickly by locking the back wheel due to engine braking.
  9. Actually, I'd say quickest braking DOES include engine braking.

    Locking up the rear while gearing down is fairly difficult on the GPX, and it wouldn't happen unless it was really slippery, even at relatively high revs. Assuming your not just dropping it into gear, and you're tweaking the throttle a little each down-change. :)
  10. Your engine was never designed to be a brake! :roll:
    And if you continue to use it as such, you will find it can get quite expensive :!:
    Much cheaper and more effective to learn to use your brakes for the task of braking 8) :D
  11. Cast your eye over this article, particularly the last paragraph. This article is also worth the read
  12. Huh....unless you put it in neutral, or haul in the clutch every time you brake, you can't avoid using engine braking. Listen to a WSBK Duke braking (barking?) for a corner, and you will quickly hear that haul in clutch they definitely don't!
  13. FAAAAARK......Got to be some kind of prize for sheer unadulterated stupidity that we can give this drongo.
  14. you guys did read the rest of the article?

  15. Where the phuq do you start?

    With the wheel locked, it's totally at the mercy of the road surface. If there's any camber or transverse unevenness, the contact patch is going to drop away downhill and you'll be on your arse before you know it. Ditto if the wheel rides up onto a rock.

    If the surface is indeed loose, lock the wheel and you start ploughing a furrow through it. The piled-up material ahead of the contact patch can also tip the wheel off centre and send you to the ground.

    Controlling a locked front wheel is not impossible in the same way taking out three 120kg rugby players who take exception to your conduct in a club isn't impossible, either; you just need the requisite expertise and experience.
  16. All his articles on braking have the common theme.....if the wheel is locked the you aren't using your maximum braking rate.....which seems to be the same thing as you are saying however you are using physics based language while he is focusing on a laymans application to riding a bike.

    His point in that article was a rare exception to the locking rule. What I read re-inforced that "no lock" mantra unless in some specific situations.
  17. That sounds right to me as well (especially the part about controlling a locked front wheel..doable but skill and luck need to be seriously on your side)....but the way I was reading the article the final statement only (hence the specific emphasis on certain words) applied when you are just about to slam into something at speed while on a gravel road. In that case the all the extra and valid 'but's you raise above are out the window and you are braking so you don't break.
  18. Problem is that his rare exception is bullshit. Even on trailbikes in all sorts of loose surfaces, I wouldn't recomend locking the front wheel. sliding the back is fun. Sliding the front is stupid. On a loose surface you need to be more gentle if anything when you squeese the front brake. If you can't stop in time safely, then you should've used less speed, but you can steer if you're not skidding. Locking the front wheel would more than likely cause a bingle rather than prevent it.
  19. So yer its not an ideal solution to emergency breaking on a loose surface....but I doubt you can come up with such a solution unless you start adding emergency training wheels to airbags to a motorbikes safety gear. You are no longer on an ideal surface and need to compromise to stop in the space between you and the obstacle in front.
  20. trail bike has knobby tires hence more traction in those conditions so you aren't as helpless.

    Pervention is always better than cure...no arguement here. Turning AND braking probably not a good idea in an emergency situation.

    In an emergency situation the bingle is already on the cards......using MAXIMUM BRAKING to reducing the impact or to avoid that bingle is what you are looking for. And the bloke is not a fan of dumping a bike to avoid an accident.