Hi all, So the Zook decided to ruin my plans for a ride today by refusing to start yesterday morning. It was turning over fine just not firing, all the lights etc were coming on, and I could hear the fuel pump priming when the kill switch was on. I had filled up the night before, but got all the way home (Upper Ferntree Gully from the city â€“ 40km) fine so discounted the bad fuel/water in tank possibility. I had had trouble starting once before, and that was after I had left the bike sitting with the headlight on for half an hour. After charging the battery it had been fine since. I had to run to work so didnâ€™t get much chance to have a look until I got home, and then it was dark. I tried everything again, checking side-stand, neutralâ€¦ still no joy. By now the battery was getting tired, so I decided to charge it overnight, see what I could find on the net to help investigate and check out plugs, battery etc in the morning. I should say that I am no mechanic or auto elec, but I have a reasonable brain for things teknickle and an over-active curiosity gland when it comes to the workings of my bike. I would also like to say a big thankyou to everyone who posts advice on this forum and others to help hacks like me out! Anyhoo, found lots of posts about starting problems and also found the electrical system section in the manual. Come thismorning I decided to run the basic checks in the manual and see if I could identify the issue. I reconnected the battery and thought Iâ€™d give it a shot, just on the off-chance. Of course it started perfectly first time! However, rather than shoot off into the hills, I decided I should run the checks anyway so I could suss out what the problem was. First up was metering the battery, measuring: Current leakage (disconnect neg wire, measure current between wire and terminal) â€“ less than 1Amp, so fine Voltage when off â€“ 13.6V Voltage when cranking â€“ 11.8V Voltage when idling â€“ 12.8V Voltage at 5000rpm â€“ 12.5V All of which is fine (not surprising with a freshly charged battery) EXCEPT that the voltage should go up at 5000rpm as the charge is returned via the stator, not down as if it is working hard to fire the plugs more oftenâ€¦ Uh oh. So onto the stator (generator) and off with the side fairing (simple enough, but what is with those plastic clips that hold the two side panels together where they meet under the bike â€“ bastard little things!) Manual says to disconnect the stator coupling and measure the resistance between the three wires. Should be between 0.2 ohms and 0.5 ohms. I got 9 ohms. Ah crap! Manualâ€™s solution: replace the stator with a new one. Great. Decided to have a look at the unit anyways, since I had the fairing off and had only ever seen a photo of one on the web. Got a bit of a surprise when a trickle of oil leaked out as I was loosening the bolts â€“ electrical components and oil didnâ€™t go together in my mindâ€¦ Got more of a shock when I pulled the cover off and the stator was swimming in oil: Now, the bike has been going through quite a bit of oil recently, and my first thought was that this might have been where it was going â€“ and killing the charging system in the process. I gave the stator and cover a quick clean (photo is after cleaning) and re-measured the resistance in the wires: 8 ohms. Woohoo! A whole ohm better! Now how much would I have to scrub to get rid of another 7.5? Remebering the stories online about stators and regulator/rectifiers taking each other out, I decided to check the reg/rec as well. Off comes the ducktail (only two Allen screws, not counting the two already removed to get the seat off â€“ nice one Suzuki! Bit harder to get the plastic off around the rack rails, but no biggy.) Now, where is the coupler? Photo in the manual has it just near the unit, but just a mess of electrical tape here. Follow the loom down towards the tankâ€¦ nothing. Oh well, two more allen bolts and up with the tank â€“ still no coupler and loom joins others at ECU. Bugger. Back to the tail and unwind some of the tape and this is what I find: The yellow is heat-shrink (I removed a couple to make the measurements) â€“ someoneâ€™s been buggerising around here before, and for some bizarre reason decided that dodgy soldering and heat-shrink was better than the factory coupling?!? To make matters worse, the wires from the reg/rec are black/white, black/red, black, black and black. The manual gives a little table for the measurements to be taken between each combination. Oh well, no chance of that! I could do the b/w and b/r and one of the blacks, only one of which matched the table values. Uh oh, looks like Iâ€™m up for a new one of these too. By now itâ€™s getting dark, and Iâ€™ve done about all I can for the moment. Replace the elec tape, back on with the stator and plastics. Off to the shop tomorrow and see what we can come up with. I had a good explore, the first time Iâ€™ve had a chance since buying this bike, learnt a lot and have a few questions for the more learned on the forum: 1) Am I right in assuming that the stator is screwed? From the photo does it look wrong? Iâ€™ve since gathered that oil is meant to circulate through the chamber (started the bike with the cover off for the sake of curiosity! Ooops! At leats now I know the oil pump is OK) and the manual has a diagram of the oil circulation which includes a jet pointed straight at the stator! Should have taken the hint from the presence of a gasket on the cover, but anyway... 2) Probably reg/rec gone as well? 3) How much are these likely to cost to replace? 4) Is getting them from a wrecker an option, or do they need to be new replacements from Suzuki? 5) Will a replacement reg/rec come with a coupler? Just the side on the unit, yeah? 6) Does anyone have any suggestions for propping the tank up to get to airbox/motor? Is it as simple as a block of 2x4 jammed in the hinge, bit of rope to the ceiling, or should there be a prop like a car bonnet that has disappeared? 7) Is anyone familiar with those horrible bastard clips and can suggest an easy way to get them to let go? Appreciate any help or advice â€“ Iâ€™ll update this after the visit to the mechanic tomorrow. Hopefully other novice tinkerers with Gixxers can use this as a starting point to diagnose electrical faults too.