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Electrical Fault (dead) CBR600 urgent help requested

Discussion in 'Technical and Troubleshooting Torque' at netrider.net.au started by port80, Aug 22, 2007.

  1. So I'm not much of a mechanic and I haven't dealt with motorbike electrics before, I'll do my best to explain in the correct terms.

    Last night I went to fire up the CBR600F3 (~28000kms, 1997) all electrics fired up as per usual, starter kicked in and before the bike had a chance to start running the bike just went dead. I.e. no lights, no response from starter, nothing. Key was in 'ON' position, kill switch, set to run. This is the first trouble the bike has given me.

    So here's what I have tested:
    - Battery (when connected) gives 13v with ignition off, gives 0v with ignition 'on'. This makes me think there is a short somewhere.
    - I get 0v to the fuse box, of course with ignition on, otherwise fuses wouldn't get power.
    - Main 30a fuse (on top of starter relay) looks fine, have swapped it.
    - Reg/rect looks okay, no burn marks. Possibly has been swapped at some point as it has cooling fins, I thought Honda's didn't.
    - With ignition off I get 13v between batt and frame bolts.
    - With ignition off I get 13v between batt and outside connectors on starter relay.

    Where should I go from here? Does it sound like something is shorting?

    Thanks for your help.

    EDIT: P.S. This is preventing me from getting to work, so if anybody can help me out (Werribee way) I'll make it worth your while.
  2. Fusable link somewhere, don't know where they hide it on a CBR600, but sounds like the culprit.
  3. Never heard of it, what might it look like, how could I identify it? Thanks.
  4. Just a standard fuse, "fusible link" - check the main fuse box, check the main relay _if_ there is a relay between the battery and the rest of the electromaholics. And search for a manual for the bike - scematics are easy, tick off everything that doesn't work and trace it back to the source (ultimate source - the battery)

    Actually, check the battery leads while you're at it, theres enough current going through the battery to melt a loose strand
  5. Ta, I've got the Haynes manual (great resource) but as per first post, it's the first time I've had the plastics of a bike so I'm kinda new to this and have NFI what I'm doing.
  6. When testing the batt voltage with the ignition off it was 13v. with the key on it was 0 was this @ the Battery or fuse box?

    if it was at the Battery then its time for a new one. if it was at the fuse box its probably time for a new regulator. when the regulator fails they normally get warm and just shut the electrical system down then they cool down and everything is back to normal, till they get hot again.

  7. At the battery. The ignition needs to be on for there to be power (judging by the manual) at the fuse box - not main fuse. So basically on or off the fuse box reads 0v.

    It's hard to test current from the main fuse (unless I strip the bike down - which I am currently doing) as the cap that covers the main fuse is required to complete the circuit from the starter relay (as far as I can tell anyway).

    I'm pretty sure the batt is fine, it reads 13v with no load. I tried ignition on with the reg/rect unplugged and I still get 0v across the batt. So I'm pretty sure it's not (just) the reg/rect.
  8. Adam at Citywest (Crofts) diagnosed an open circuit in the battery over the phone, I took the battery down there and he tested it with load, sure enough dead. I have the new battery preparing now.

    EDIT: Bike started first try with new battery, my fear was that the reg/rect killed that battery. Adam was kind enough to test the output of the reg/rect, which was fine.
  9. Watch out. The rec/reg may be fine while it's cold but may go open circuit when it gets hot. This will fry you battery with 50volts going to it. You could be on for another new battery if it does that.