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Electonics Problems

Discussion in 'Technical and Troubleshooting Torque' started by tmg, Jan 17, 2007.

  1. The good news is that only two things are wrong now.

    A) The rear taillights don't come on when you turn the headlight on, (they do when you turn the key to (P) on the key barrel)

    8) The starter button doesn't work

    other than that everything else works fine, and yes everything worked perfect on the bike when I got it. it's only since the big swap over has it gone problematic.

    BTW how many positive wires are supposed to come off the battery? There's the main one, but then there's a smaller thinner one doing nothing. If anyone needs pics don't hesitate to ask. I need as much help as I can get. I got the diagrams too if anyone needs them.

  2. I'd be looking at that key barrel and the wires/connections behind it, shouldn't be too hard to get to. if you 'waggle' the key in the ignition, is there mucvh movement, or does it get the rear light working? Same for the starter button, shouldn't be too hard to get to. Start with the ignition barrel.
  3. tried the ignition barrel - the key wiggles abit from side to side - about 1-2mm all up, which is nothing, but didn't yield any good results with either the started button or taillight working.

    wanna get a test light tomorrow from the hardware store after work so I can test the wires I need to, to see if they are supplying current. which they bloody well should be.

    it's just one of them things I look at and think, "why the f#$k isn't it workig?", when it all worked before...... :-k
  4. i dont think there should be a wire waggling around.

    failing your fault finding, we can go through setting up your own wiring with a coupla relays.

    let us know how you go with the test light.
  5. ok, I think I (myself and a mate), have sort of managed to solve it...here's what happened.

    I went and got a multimetre today and we tested the four wires going into the started solinoid. Two of the wires (the ones attached to the fuse on the solinoid) were live all the time, and the other two became live when the starter button was pressed, but no action from the starter motor.

    I bit my tongue and bridged the "BATTERY" and "MOTOR" connections with a screwdriver, bypassing the solinoid, and the starter motor wound over like normal, so the problem seems to be in the solinoid, but I even went and bought a new one from the bike shop, along with a new battery (still charging it up atm), and it made no difference to it at all, so one of the wires is faulty, or maybe an earth isn't earthed properly or something, but that's how it panned out today.
  6. check the starter relay.

    in many cases there is a relay that controls the rotating of the starter motor itself.
    the process goes like this.

    ignition on
    start button pressed
    current delivered to solenoid to throw it out
    upon solenoid throw-out the starter relay is activated by continuity at the solenoid (which you have proven)
    this then completes the starter circuit which turns the starter.

    the seperate circuit for the starter and solenoid is to ensure that when the solenoid retracts the starter stops rotating.

    your starter relay will be similar to your headlight and other relays and therefore you can do a quick ckeck by interchanging them (remember which is the relay in question).

    other than that, check the operation of any devices your bike has that stops your bike from starting eg. some bikes will not start with the sidestand in certain positions ie there is a sidestand sensor. others will only start with the clutch in, or clutch in and in neutral.

    all worth a look.
  7. [​IMG]

    number 1, that leads to the starter isn't registering any current at all when I check it with the multimetre. All other wires register 12volts. I am checking the Silicon Rectifier as I write this to see if that's the problem....

    ....yep, it was the rectifier!!! it kicks now!
  8. ....but it doesn't start ladies and gentlemen. been trying to figure it out all arvo too. ignition coils are connected right as well.

    does the amount of amps a fuse supports affect this?