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EFM Auto Clutch on Kawasaki ER6N 2006

Discussion in 'Modifications and Projects' started by Tobbera, Oct 14, 2012.

  1. I commute everyday through Sydney traffic which makes my left hand very tired. I looked into auto clutches which were pretty pricey. Today I managed to get a second hand one in Dee Why for $250, a bargain I think. Pretty sure its a EFM Auto Clutch I have sourced.

    Tonight I have gone through all parts and it seems that I'm missing some steel plates to mate with the friction plates. I'll take these from the old clutch when I remove it.

    Gonna try to make time for installation next weekend.

  2. Might be cos there's nothing else for scale there but that looks VERY large compared to most bike clutches I've seen?
  3. Yeah, got the same feeling, its huge. But it has a been mounted on a Versys which is the same engine, so...
  4. Interested to hear your review of it, i seriously looked into them about 9months ago and what info i could find was sketchy and user reviews not really clear either. Seems some can get them to work others can't hope you post a detailed review
  5. if you oil up your clutch cable that will make a big differance ,try that first
  6. My clutch cable is greased and oiled and sooo smooth... But that doesnt take away the need for clutch disengagement at stop and go traffic. ](*,)

  7. so are you saying you have a weak left hand??if your clutch is set up wright and your cable is well oiled you shood be able to pull the clutch in with two fingers and be VERY easy at that ?
  8. Yes, it doable with to fingers. But after doing that a hundred times on my way to work I figured there must be a better way. And hopefully there are. Gonna give the auto clutch a try on Sunday. This thread is not about the reason to get a auto clutch, but the installation and evaluation of one.

  9. Update: I got half way thru of putting this thing into place last weekend, when I managed to snap a bolt that holds the oil pump chain sprocket (left hand thread!). Ive got a new one coming in so I can hopefully continue on Sunday.
  10. As much as i'd love to give you stick for being a girls blouse:p your exactly right this thread is about the installation and evaluation of a auto clutch ...not reasons why you should have to suck it up and deal with a normal clutch.

    good luck with it bud'
  11. Finally the new oil pump shaft arrived so I could install the new EFM autoclutch.

    The clutch basically consist of:
    Modified OEM basket
    Modified OEM hub
    Specialy built EFM pressure plate
    Specialy built EFM washers/shims for adjustment.
    Specialy built EFM clutch cover spacer.

    I reused the whole friction/steel plate stack from the OEM clutch.

    The instructions I got from EFM was kind if vague, I had to email back severel times to get answers and even then is was a bit if guess work in the end.

    Removed the whole OEM clutch assembly, plus oil pump sprocket. This is where I managed to break the bolt because it was left hand threads. :banghead: Got a second had oil pump assembly from USA in a week.

    After this I mounted the EFM modified OEM basket, specially built EFM washers/shim, modified OEM hub, the whole friction/steel plate stack from the OEM clutch, clutch release "push" rod and finally the specially built EFM pressure plate. The "push" rod that is there to disengage the OEM clutch probably isn't "push", but more "pull". Even though it says push in the Kawasaki service manual. More on this in the end.

    After this, I mounted the clutch cover with a supplied spacer in between to make room for the bigger specially built EFM pressure plate. Hook up clutch cable, fill up with full sythetic ester oil and fire her up in neutral gear.

    First thing I notice is that there is no response at all in the clutch lever. Even though I've understood that the clutch should be working with the EFM autoclutch. However, I jump up on the bike and put in the first gear. Pretty chunky but that's always the case with my ER6. Letting go of the brake makes the bike want to pull away pretty hard. I give some throttle and the bike push really hard. Yay! :) Drive around the garage for a minute and then come to a stop. Almost no pull on idle anymore, probably needed some wear in.

    Took the bike to work today and its really a joy to drive. The clutch-less shifting makes the ride pretty hard to begin with but gets better.

    I would however like to have the ability to manually disengage the clutch when shifting hard. This is where I start to scratch my head seriously. The rod in the middle of the pressure plate is named as a push rod on the Kawasaki manual. After a lot of research I have com to the conclusion that this must be right. I think this rod is meant to be pulled by the shaft that goes down the clutch cover. Unknowingly of this I just places the rod in the center and put the cover on. Resulting in no clutch lever action at all. Another interesting thing is that there is a ball bearing around the rod in the OEM pressure plate. I tried to put this in the specially built EFM pressure plate, but there the hole was to big, so the bearing moved round. This I didn't mount the bearing, just the rod. So, if I manage to get the shaft to pull the rod, its going to rub directly against the specially built EFM pressure plate, which doesn't feel good. Any suggestions on this is greatly appreciated. I'm also going to email EFM regarding this.

    New clutch without specially built EFM pressure plate mounted. "Push" rod visible in the middle.

    Specially built EFM pressure plate mounted. "Push" rod visible in the middle.

    Specially built EFM pressure plate outside.

    specially built EFM pressure plate backside. Note that the hole is too big for the OEM push rod bearing.

    Specially built EFM clutch cover spacer.

    Old OEM clutch.

    OEM clutch push rod and shaft.

    OEM clutch push rod and bearing.
  12. Got a reply from Garry at EFM today:

    So, gonna try to pull off the clutch cover and pressure plate on Sunday and see if I can correct this.
  13. did it fix the clutch pull ?
  14. OP hasn't been back on the site since Dec 2013. I also wondered if he got the thing working properly.
  15. So its an old thread,I have a Recluse centrivical clutch in my Te 250 2005 Husky.They work very well in low speed riding,automaticaly slipping the clutch to get smooth drive.No bump starting and no engine braking at low speeds are the disadvantages.I like mine a lot.