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ebrake - clutch in or out?

Discussion in 'New Riders and Riding Tips' at netrider.net.au started by daedalus, Mar 12, 2010.

  1. my Ps instructor said always clutch in as leaving the clutch out increases the chance that the wheels lock

    clutch out will also result in engine stalling, but thats not an issue right?

    however, clutch in also reduces braking power (no engine braking).





    what do you guys think?
     
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  2. Clutch in.

    Engine braking would be neglible in that time frame, especially when you probably won't have the time to gear down to use it effectively
     
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  3. clutch in, use the brakes, under those conditions you will gain little from engine breaking, and also run the risk of locking rear wheel which will add to issues of control rear end sliding and should you need to accelerate out of a said area (ie car behind not looking to stop) last thing you want is stalled motor....
     
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  4. Clutch in at the last minute to stop the engine stalling, but when I brake hard i let the engine braking assist.
     
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  5. I do the same as Mitch. It's how I was taught 20 years ago and I've never had a problem.
     
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  6. In. You can brake faster than your engine can spin down.
     
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  7. As a former MZ owner, and sometime rider of The Amazing Frictionless Commando, I beg to differ :wink:.
     
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  8. Our instructor at Hart told us it doesn't matter whether it's in or out as it's "emergency" braking. He said don't worry if it stalls or not.
     
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  9. A lot of this is subjective I guess - my instructor at METAL actually had us practice e-braking whilst making sure the engine was running, immediately getting the gearbox in 1st and taking off again. There is a lot of roadtrains up here, and they don't stop too well, so he was thinking we might have to brake to avoid the danger in front, but there might be imminent danger behind as well.
     
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  10. My recent (last week) pre-learner course from Stay Upright had us doing (sort of) emergency stops with the clutch all the way in and the left foot tapping down the gears to first (not hard from second at 20kph) but the idea was to ensure you were in gear if a quick take off was required after stopping. Same theory as per Rented's post.

    Fun Ha!
     
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  11. great in theory but when you have a cager or anyone behind you not paying attention and closing quickly you might regret not learning how to e.b. without stalling the motor
     
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  12. I have been told exactly that as i did my training at HART also. Clutching in shouldnt be the first thing you think about as thats precious time lost. BRAKE FIRST, then clutch when u can after. If it stalls it stalls, no big deal. My wheels havn't locked up unless i put too much emphasis on the rear brake.
     
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  13. They taught us how to do both and there isn't always a cager closing in quickly behind at all times. Both in and out ebrakes could be applied to whatever the situation at that time calls for.
     
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  14. I consider this poor advice. What if, in applying pressure to the brake lever, you also roll the throttle on, even a little? Why not practice pulling the clutch at the same time? You won't even have to think about it.
     
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  15. Good thread OP
     
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  16. Concentrate on avoiding the hazard, once you have that under control then worry about dealing with other issues that may have arisen, you may need the engine running to do that. Most real world E braking is not to a stop but washing off enough speed that you can maneuver yourself into a safe position, just throwing out the anchor is often not the only response required.
     
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  17. =D>
     
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  18. Talk about overthinking. In a really butt clenching situation your general train of thought is going to be FUUUUUUUUUU.....

    Just practice pulling the clutch in when emergency braking. I have no idea why youd want more engine braking power on top of the rear brake.
     
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  19. When I went for my Learners, they taught us to pull the clutch in only at the last minute to prevent stalling and use engine braking to help. However when I was on the road on my first e-braking situation, I pulled the clutch in and all brakes on. I think I locked both tyres, skidded for a bit just short of the Holden bumper bar but kept the engine running, I was off-balanced due to the skid so if I powered on to try and avoid the car in front, I reckon I would have stacked it.
     
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  20. That is some O.K. Advice for a small bike.
    What about a bike that has enough grunt to start pushing the front wheel even if it is locked?
    By the time you roll off the throttle you could be laying on your side.
    No clutch doesn’t matter that much when the priority is getting the braking done… But you want it in before you get to slow or it will just hinder your braking.
     
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